I'm installing a Hurst Roll Control on the Willys. I probably won't use it much, but it may come in handy once in a while. I picked a place on the firewall recess not too far from the master cylinder, which is mounted behind the dashboard.
The location is a little tight, but I'll be able to get into and out of the unit with 90 degree AN fittings.
I already have the rear brake plumbing done up to and including the proportioning valve, and the front brake lines are done up to a tee on the frame rail near the crossmember. All that's left to do is route the line from the master cylinder to the roll control inlet and from the roll control outlet to the front brake line tee.
The rear brake line goes directly from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.
For the rear latch support point, I welded an angle clip onto the side of the firewall frame as shown in the first photo. The latch will rest on the clip. I drilled and tapped a hole in the latch body to accept a screw through the clip.
Second photo shows finished installation. The latch is through-bolted in the front and secured by the clip in the rear for a solid installation. The manual release knob will be accessible in case of electrical failure. The same latch assembly was also installed on the other side of vehicle.
The last photo shows the latch pin protruding out from the firewall horn. It will mate up to a plate mounted to the tilt front end and keep everything secure.
The Willys is going to have a one-piece tilt front end. It will be opened/closed by two linear actuators. Although the actuators will keep the tilt front closed, I still wanted a secondary latching system to keep everything secure.
I decided on using a couple of motor operated suicide door latches as shown in the first photo. The units are fairly large and it took a while to find a place to mount them where they would fit and still allow the latch pin to protrude through the firewall.
I decided on putting them in the unused "horn" areas that protrude forward from the firewall. Although the fiberglass is fairly thick in these areas, I wanted to reinforce it for the through bolts that hold the latch to the body. I epoxied a piece of 1/4" plywood to the inside face of each horn and drilled the mounting holes and latch pin hole as shown in the second photo.
The last photo shows the latch fit up in position. The pin protruding down from the bottom of the latch is for a manual release knob.
The latch is only supported by the two mounting screws through the body at the front of the unit, and it needs to be supported at the rear also. The firewall frame that I made earlier will come in handy again as a rear support point.
First photo shows the wiper blade location when parked, and second photo shows wiper blades at maximum sweep. Coverage is not complete, but favors the drivers side. These wipers will only be used in case of rain, and otherwise stowed away. The posts will normally have a finished cover over them.
Last photo shows the entire assembly from the inside. The excess portion of the drive cable that extends out of the tubing to the right of the transmission gets cut off, and a cover plate is bolted over the exposed drive to finish everything up.
With some careful hand bending the aluminum tube between the wiper motor and first transmission was fit into place. The wood frame was cut out as needed to keep the tubing tucked away and not in the way of any interior finishing. Upon final assembly, the tubing will be epoxied into the cutouts in the wood frame to keep it from moving. The right wiper transmission was located and installed in the same manner.
Second and third pictures show the before/after wiper drive shaft and threaded post installation. Post and shaft were cut off according to instructions.