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View steve392's profile Entries: 204
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03-28-2008 08:04 AM Side Project - Gantry
I decided to build a rolling gantry for the shop. I wanted something to help in getting the Willys body on and off the frame safely, and I also wanted an alternative way of installing/removing the engine and trans.
I came up with this design which uses a 6" I-beam, wheeled trolley, and support frame made out of 4x4 wood posts.
The posts slip inside a piece of 4"x4" steel tube attached to the bottom of the beam. The tubes were welded up, and I also added a gusset plate on the inside of each tube. A couple coats of Rust-Oleum and the beam was done.
The legs of the gantry were made of 4x4 posts, with the horizontal beam made by sandwiching 2x4's and OSB to create a mini laminated beam. Bottom of gantry is 4 feet wide.



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  [Entry #64]

03-25-2008 12:59 PM Willys Chassis - Driveshaft Hoop
Before the body goes back on, I wanted to install the driveshaft safety hoop. It bolts in just to the rear of the front universal joint. The driveshaft is only three feet long, and it is contained in the front by the safety hoop and in the rear by the cross-member "loop".


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  [Entry #63]

03-25-2008 12:57 PM Willys Chassis - Brake Lines
Here are a few pictures of the front brake line routing. The flex lines come through the frame in front of the cross-member, pass through the ball-joint axis, and back to the calipers. This routing minimizes the travel of the flex line as the wheel goes up and down and turns lock-to-lock, as well as keeping it as short as possible. The line for the front brakes will come from the master cylinder, through a Roll Control solenoid, tee off for the left front caliper before ending at the right front caliper. The multiple bends on the right side were necessary in order to clear the alternator, which is mounted low on the right side of the engine. That's it for the front brake plumbing until the body goes back on.


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  [Entry #62]

03-25-2008 12:56 PM Willys Chassis - Brake Lines
The rear cross-member in this frame is a big obstacle to get around, not only for the exhaust, but for anything else that has to get from one end of the frame to the other. Instead of going around it, I went through it using another thru-frame fitting and routed the brake line in the space between the front 4-link brackets. It's below the bottom link bolt hole, and I know that the suspension will never be adjusted so radically that the link bar will ever get close to the brake line.

Coming out the front side of the cross-member, the line is routed along the frame, jogs around the transmission cross-member and up to the prop valve. I won't be able to route any more of the rear system until the body goes back on, so for now the rear brake plumbing is done.



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  [Entry #61]

03-25-2008 12:54 PM Willys Chassis - Brake Lines
I decided to go with stainless steel brake lines and fittings and here are some of the parts including the tubing, tube nuts, sleeves, fittings and frame clamps. I picked up some plain steel brake line from the local auto supply and practiced my bending and routing using that first. Once I was satisfied with the fit-up, it was duplicated in the stainless tubing.

The line for the rear brakes will come from the master cylinder, through a proportioning valve, down the frame rail and tee off to the left rear caliper before ending at the right rear caliper. Since the master cylinder will be above all of the calipers, there's no need for any residual valves.




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  [Entry #60]

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