The Willys dashboard alone is not deep enough to house all of the instruments, buttons and switches, so it was always planned to have a small sub dash installed to hold the A/C vents, as well as a few switches and buttons for various functions. The original thought was to fabricate the dash either out of ABS plastic that would need to be upholstered, or bend up a sheet metal dash that would be painted. Either way, I would likely have to farm out some if not all of the fabrication. I finally came up with a do-it-yourself option using some 2'' deep aluminum channel. The shape would follow the angles of the upper dash, but be recessed back a bit for a better look. I measured the angles between the center section and both angled side pieces. Pie-cuts were made at the bend points; the channel was bent to the correct angle and welded back up. Two angled return pieces were added to each end of the sub dash to close off the ends and match the sides of the upper dash. I was able to fabricate the entire sub dash in one piece from a 48'' length of stock. The first four photos show the fabrication procedure, while the last two show the trial fit up to the upper dash. I added some reinforcement to the inside bottom lip of the fiberglass upper dash using some aluminum tabs. The tabs were drilled and tapped for the machine screws that attach the two together. Paper cutouts show the locations of the A/C vents.
The first two photos show some of the wiring effort at the dash area. It was a lot more challenging to keep everything neat and routed properly here than at the rear bulkhead. A lot less room to work in combined with a monster harness for the EFI that needed to be routed made for some tight conditions. It took a few tries with different routings to get it all to fit. The last four photos are back at the battery box. The Holley HP EFI gets its power directly from the battery per Holley's instructions. The extra terminals on the battery came in handy for these connections. The cables enter the box from opposite sides and cross over to their respective terminals. The 1/0 positive cable going to the right is for the remote solenoid supply, and the #2 cable leaving the left side of the box goes to a remote jumper stud located underneath on the frame. The 1/0 ground cable goes down through the body to the main ground lug on the frame, while the #10 wire zip-tied to it goes to a ground bus located on the bulkhead.
The last photo shows the completed effort, with the roll bar temporarily installed.
The wiring effort continued with sorting out where each wire needed to go. Some stayed only in the rear of the car, but most went forward to the dash or engine area. We decided to route two separate bundles of wires along the top of the driveshaft tunnel, one going to circuits on the left of the vehicle and the other going to circuits on the right. 'Gray stuff' wiring channel from Ron Francis Wiring was used to keep things neat as the wires were routed forward. It turns out that there were a lot more wires to run than would fit into just two channels, so another layer of channel was placed on top of the first. The point was to keep all of the wiring on the topmost portion of the tunnel to allow for the center console to be fabricated in such a way that all of the wiring was concealed inside. Photos were sent to our interior shop just to make sure the wiring was not going to be in the way of carpeting and console. These photos show the ongoing progress. Relay panels are located and being wired up, most of the wires going forward are routed through the channels, and wire bundles secured with hundreds of zip-ties.
The last major part of the project, aside from the interior work, was the wiring and electrical system. The rear bulkhead provided the mounting surface for almost all of the electrical components. The battery box was located between the wheel tubs on a small platform. Once that was done, the other major components were located. The remote disconnect solenoid was bolted to the bulkhead in a place that would allow the positive cable from the battery to be routed neatly to the solenoid, and then from the solenoid to the starter. The main fuse block is a Painless Wiring 28 circuit trunk mount chassis harness. All of the wiring was extra length, and there was plenty left over once all of the circuits were tied in. The third photo shows most of the components mounted to the bulkhead. Besides the remote solenoid and fuse block, there was room for the keyless start module, electric fan controller, positive and negative bus bars, auxiliary fuse blocks, and the stereo amplifier. The battery and ground cables enter/exit the body through the floor on each side of the battery box. The fifth photo shows the solenoid wired up, and the wires from the fuse block are just getting sorted out.
The last photo shows one of the two relay panels that I had made up for the electrical system. There are a total of 17 relays on two separate panels. I debated on making these panels up myself, but decided to have them done by the auto electric company that I was buying all of my parts from. This saved a lot of time. While the panels were being wired up, I was able to keep moving forward on the rest of the wiring. I say ''I'', but I really mean ''we''. My wife helped me with the entire wiring effort, and it's due to her that it came out as well as it did. ''We'' were able to get the job done much quicker (and better) than if I had tried to do it alone.
The emergency brake handle was located on the driveshaft tunnel. A slot was cut into the top of the tunnel, and the brake lever was attached using the supplied angle brackets. I ended up bending each bracket to match the curvature of the tunnel. The third and fourth photos show the brake cable and anchor setup as seen from underneath. The cable anchor is mounted to the rear cross member. All of the cables and the brake lever are from Lokar. The fifth photo shows the switch attached to the lever assembly for the indicator light.
The last photo shows a different setup for the lever than originally intended. The four angle brackets were mounted to the underneath portion of the tunnel, which set the lever too low to the floor on the inside. So, the angle brackets were relocated to the inside of the tunnel, which raised the lever up high enough for clearance above the carpeting. The grey channel will be for routing wires to the front of the vehicle from the fuse block.