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View steve392's profile Entries: 204
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10-09-2007 02:02 PM Willys Chassis - Exhaust System
Now that the engine/trans/driveshaft are located and installed, my next priority is the exhaust system. As I start filling up the frame with stuff, the plan is to go from largest to smallest. Once the exhaust is routed and in, than I'll go for the plumbing. Seems like it would be easier to re-route a brake line to miss an exhaust pipe or hanger than the other way around.
Anyway, first come the headers. There are a few options for early Hemi headers, and I narrowed it down to two: shorty headers from either Hot Heads or Sanderson. I first purchased the ones from Hot Heads, and bolted them up to the block. They fit real well, and as can be seen from the first picture, there is plenty of frame clearance for the steering linkage. However, it looked like the outlet flange was kinda low. By the time I got on a mating flange, adapter and 90 degree bend, the pipe was going to be lower than I wanted.
Plan B was to check out a pair of Sanderson DD3 blockhuggers. The second picture shows the Sanderson header installed. Their design is a little different in that the collector flange is angled toward the block, whereas the Hot Heads header points straight down. Sanderson also supplied their matching flanged adapter to straighten things out.
Third picture shows a front view with the Hot Heads header on the left, and the Sanderson unit on the right. From what I'm seeing so far, I'll be going with the Sandersons. It looks like I'll have more ground clearance to the bottom of the exhaust pipe by going with them.
Its a shame, because I like the quality of the Hot Heads headers more. Better fit and finish. Either way, I'll have to sell off the ones I don't use. Not the most cost-effective way of doing things.



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  [Entry #54]

10-09-2007 01:40 PM Willys Chassis - Driveshaft
I decided to go with Inland Empire Driveline for the driveshaft. By following their directions, I measured for the length I needed. I also had to determine what size the pinion yoke was, and also the "stickout" on the transmission tailshaft. With these dimensions, I called up IED and ordered up a 3 1/2" diameter aluminum shaft with 1350 series u-joints. A week later, I had it installed. Fit perfectly, no problems. Looks good, too.


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  [Entry #53]

10-09-2007 01:32 PM Willys Chassis - Transmission
Nothing left to do but install the transmission to the bellhousing for the final time. I was working alone, so some straps and the engine hoist worked out well. I also put some long guide pins in the bellhousing holes to help line everything up.
By not having to wrestle with the weight of the transmission, and by using the guides, I was confident that I wouldn't do any damage to the pilot bearing either. It slid right in with no problem. Four bolts later, and it's all done.
One more thing I needed to do was to measure actual clearance between the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers. Actual measurement with feeler gauges came out to .110" A little tighter than planned but still more than the .100" minimum.
Second picture shows relationship between input shaft, spacer, throwout bearing and clutch assembly.
Last picture shows trans crossmember installed in frame. Pigtail on tailshaft of the Tremec TKO is the neutral safety switch connector. Now that the engine/trans combo was firmly situated in the frame, it was time to measure up for the driveshaft.


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  [Entry #52]

10-09-2007 01:16 PM Willys Chassis - Transmission
The last thing to do before bolting up the trans to the bellhousing was to install the McLeod hydraulic throwout (release) bearing.
Due to the "stack-up" of all of the parts I used, I found that I needed a spacer between the input shaft bearing surface and the back of the throwout bearing.
First photo shows the spacer installed on the input shaft. Although the hydraulic bearing has a threaded sleeve of its own, it just wasn't long enough, hence the use of a spacer first.
Second picture shows the threaded sleeve installed. The remainder of the bearing screws on to this and gives the adjustability in the overall length of the assembly. McLeod instructions call for between .100" and .300" clearance between bearing and clutch fingers. I set up the assembly for .125" clearance.
Third picture shows complete bearing assembly on input shaft, ready for final installation.


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  [Entry #51]

10-09-2007 01:03 PM Willys Chassis - Transmission
Now that the motor mounts were good to go, it was time to re-install the engine/trans for installation of rear crossmember.
First, I needed to finish up detailing the transmission. This was to be the final assembly of the trans to the engine, so I needed to do some painting.
First, the trans was cleaned using DX533 Aluminum Cleaner, followed by a few coats of DP50LF Primer. Next came the color coats of single stage Concept DCC urethane. Final coat was done by adding DCU2021 Clear and some DX685 Flattening agent, all of which is from PPG Paint.


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  [Entry #50]

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