I will be installing a roll bar in the Willys, so I thought that I would try mocking up a bar to see what it will look like. I will not be doing this work myself, so this will give the fabricator an idea of what I have in mind.
I started off by getting a few lengths of 3/4" PVC electrical conduit and some foam pipe insulation. The O.D. of the insulation is the same as the roll bar material, which is 1 3/4". I first took some interior measurements, and began by making the hoop. A couple of PVC elbows help keep the foam rigid enough for a reasonable looking roll bar.
I placed the hoop inside the vehicle to get an idea where it can be placed in reference to the seats and roof. I'm not paying too much attention to the interior just now. This is just to be used as talking points with the fabricator.
I have the seats located, and I've determined the location of the steering column based upon the centerline of the seat, tilt of column and view through the steering wheel to verify that the gauges can be seen. I'm using an ididit steering column along with their bottom swivel mount and column drop. Also, the location of the column was checked against the location of the brake & clutch pedal arms. Everything checked out, so it was time to drill some holes. I located the bottom hole up as high as was possible on the removable floor/trans tunnel section.
The column drop was attached to the dashboard brace. Additional bracing will be added to the dash brace once the pedal assembly is installed.
Here's a few pictures of the brake & clutch pedal assembly that I'm using. It's a Reverse-mount behind dash unit from Kugel. I wanted to try this style instead of having the more traditional pedal setup through the floor. As can be seen from the photos, the assembly will mount to the firewall, with both master cylinders facing inward. The height of the assembly will be set by the clearance needed between the cylinders and the dashboard brace. The dashboard itself will need to be moved out by about an inch to clear the end of the brake m/c, but this actually works out okay. I will need the extra room to get the gauges placed where I want them and still clear the cylinders.
There are just a few of the early mockup photos showing the steering column and pedal arm relationship. I'll have more on this later on in the buildup.
Here's a little re-work that I had to do to the water pump. Once the engine was installed in the frame, I had an interference between the alternator, which was originally located on the left side down low, and the steering rack. I decided to move the alternator over to the right side, keeping it down low for a "cleaner" look to the engine. In doing so, I now had a problem with clearance between the water pump inlet and the alternator drive belt. Too close to use, I would never get a hose and clamp on the pump. I decided to extend the pump inlet by welding on an extension to it using 2" O.D. aluminum tubing. A local radiator shop furnished the bend, beaded the end and TIG welded it to the pump housing. Last picture shows completed re-work. No problem getting a hose on there now. The belt is still a little close to the pump, so I may add an 1/8" spacer to get the belt away from the pump. This means moving out all of the front pulleys including the upper and lower blower belt, idler, water pump and alternator pulleys. All this because I wanted to keep the alternator low......
First picture shows the bracket positioned on the frame. It fits nicely between the transmission cross member and the driveshaft hoop. The bracket uses -12AN port fittings with an extra -8AN auxiliary port for a gauge connection. I will block this off for now.
Second picture shows the AN fittings in and out of the Hemi block. The bottom connection is from the oil pump out to the filters, and the top connection is the return from the filters.
Third picture shows the hose and fitting setup at the filter bracket. The hose and fittings are -10AN. Inlet is on the right with the 180 degree fitting. Although the hose and fitting extend up past the top of the frame, it does not interfere with the body. I will also clamp the hoses together and against the frame using the clamps shown in an earlier photo.