I bought this dual filter remote bracket for engine start-up and break in with the intent of also using it on the finished project. After locating it on the frame, the fit wasn't what I wanted. The mounting hole locations put the bracket too low on the frame which made the filters extend too far below the frame. I decided not to use this, and instead found this Hamburger's unit. It is a series type bracket, where the oil flows through the first filter, and then through the second filter. The mounting bracket is in a location that allows for mounting higher up on the frame. This in turn will help keep the bottom of the filters up as high as possible. I also went with Earl's black anodized fittings and stainless hose for the oil lines.
I picked up these 6" swivel casters for the gantry. Each wheel is rated for over 800#, and was lag bolted to bottom of beam.
After looking around for a trolley, I settled on this 1 ton unit. It's adjustable for different width beams.
The last picture shows the gantry complete. The last piece I added was a chain hoist that matches the weight capacity of the trolley.
Although it could safely lift a ton, I'm not planning on using it on anything over 1000 lbs. Thats more than enough for the engine and transmission, and will make lifting the body on and off the frame so much easier and safer.
I decided to build a rolling gantry for the shop. I wanted something to help in getting the Willys body on and off the frame safely, and I also wanted an alternative way of installing/removing the engine and trans.
I came up with this design which uses a 6" I-beam, wheeled trolley, and support frame made out of 4x4 wood posts.
The posts slip inside a piece of 4"x4" steel tube attached to the bottom of the beam. The tubes were welded up, and I also added a gusset plate on the inside of each tube. A couple coats of Rust-Oleum and the beam was done.
The legs of the gantry were made of 4x4 posts, with the horizontal beam made by sandwiching 2x4's and OSB to create a mini laminated beam. Bottom of gantry is 4 feet wide.
Before the body goes back on, I wanted to install the driveshaft safety hoop. It bolts in just to the rear of the front universal joint. The driveshaft is only three feet long, and it is contained in the front by the safety hoop and in the rear by the cross-member "loop".
Here are a few pictures of the front brake line routing. The flex lines come through the frame in front of the cross-member, pass through the ball-joint axis, and back to the calipers. This routing minimizes the travel of the flex line as the wheel goes up and down and turns lock-to-lock, as well as keeping it as short as possible. The line for the front brakes will come from the master cylinder, through a Roll Control solenoid, tee off for the left front caliper before ending at the right front caliper. The multiple bends on the right side were necessary in order to clear the alternator, which is mounted low on the right side of the engine. That's it for the front brake plumbing until the body goes back on.