Here's a little re-work that I had to do to the water pump. Once the engine was installed in the frame, I had an interference between the alternator, which was originally located on the left side down low, and the steering rack. I decided to move the alternator over to the right side, keeping it down low for a "cleaner" look to the engine. In doing so, I now had a problem with clearance between the water pump inlet and the alternator drive belt. Too close to use, I would never get a hose and clamp on the pump. I decided to extend the pump inlet by welding on an extension to it using 2" O.D. aluminum tubing. A local radiator shop furnished the bend, beaded the end and TIG welded it to the pump housing. Last picture shows completed re-work. No problem getting a hose on there now. The belt is still a little close to the pump, so I may add an 1/8" spacer to get the belt away from the pump. This means moving out all of the front pulleys including the upper and lower blower belt, idler, water pump and alternator pulleys. All this because I wanted to keep the alternator low......
First picture shows the bracket positioned on the frame. It fits nicely between the transmission cross member and the driveshaft hoop. The bracket uses -12AN port fittings with an extra -8AN auxiliary port for a gauge connection. I will block this off for now.
Second picture shows the AN fittings in and out of the Hemi block. The bottom connection is from the oil pump out to the filters, and the top connection is the return from the filters.
Third picture shows the hose and fitting setup at the filter bracket. The hose and fittings are -10AN. Inlet is on the right with the 180 degree fitting. Although the hose and fitting extend up past the top of the frame, it does not interfere with the body. I will also clamp the hoses together and against the frame using the clamps shown in an earlier photo.
I bought this dual filter remote bracket for engine start-up and break in with the intent of also using it on the finished project. After locating it on the frame, the fit wasn't what I wanted. The mounting hole locations put the bracket too low on the frame which made the filters extend too far below the frame. I decided not to use this, and instead found this Hamburger's unit. It is a series type bracket, where the oil flows through the first filter, and then through the second filter. The mounting bracket is in a location that allows for mounting higher up on the frame. This in turn will help keep the bottom of the filters up as high as possible. I also went with Earl's black anodized fittings and stainless hose for the oil lines.
I picked up these 6" swivel casters for the gantry. Each wheel is rated for over 800#, and was lag bolted to bottom of beam.
After looking around for a trolley, I settled on this 1 ton unit. It's adjustable for different width beams.
The last picture shows the gantry complete. The last piece I added was a chain hoist that matches the weight capacity of the trolley.
Although it could safely lift a ton, I'm not planning on using it on anything over 1000 lbs. Thats more than enough for the engine and transmission, and will make lifting the body on and off the frame so much easier and safer.
I decided to build a rolling gantry for the shop. I wanted something to help in getting the Willys body on and off the frame safely, and I also wanted an alternative way of installing/removing the engine and trans.
I came up with this design which uses a 6" I-beam, wheeled trolley, and support frame made out of 4x4 wood posts.
The posts slip inside a piece of 4"x4" steel tube attached to the bottom of the beam. The tubes were welded up, and I also added a gusset plate on the inside of each tube. A couple coats of Rust-Oleum and the beam was done.
The legs of the gantry were made of 4x4 posts, with the horizontal beam made by sandwiching 2x4's and OSB to create a mini laminated beam. Bottom of gantry is 4 feet wide.