The last thing to do before bolting up the trans to the bellhousing was to install the McLeod hydraulic throwout (release) bearing.
Due to the "stack-up" of all of the parts I used, I found that I needed a spacer between the input shaft bearing surface and the back of the throwout bearing.
First photo shows the spacer installed on the input shaft. Although the hydraulic bearing has a threaded sleeve of its own, it just wasn't long enough, hence the use of a spacer first.
Second picture shows the threaded sleeve installed. The remainder of the bearing screws on to this and gives the adjustability in the overall length of the assembly. McLeod instructions call for between .100" and .300" clearance between bearing and clutch fingers. I set up the assembly for .125" clearance.
Third picture shows complete bearing assembly on input shaft, ready for final installation.
Now that the motor mounts were good to go, it was time to re-install the engine/trans for installation of rear crossmember.
First, I needed to finish up detailing the transmission. This was to be the final assembly of the trans to the engine, so I needed to do some painting.
First, the trans was cleaned using DX533 Aluminum Cleaner, followed by a few coats of DP50LF Primer. Next came the color coats of single stage Concept DCC urethane. Final coat was done by adding DCU2021 Clear and some DX685 Flattening agent, all of which is from PPG Paint.
After a lot of practicing on scrap pieces of the same thickness, I was ready to weld in the mounts. A few tacks held everything in place for the final welding.
I have a Millermatic 175 MIG and used .035 wire. Welds came out good and will need just a little cleanup.
It took a lot of trips back and forth to the grinder, but here's the finished mount.
The drivers side worked out the same, however it is located 5/8" farther forward on the frame, so I needed to cope out more on that side. This is because the lugs on the Hemi block are offset, so the frame mounts are not on the same centerline front-to-back.
Last two views show the finished arrangement from the top and bottom with the donut and bolt installed.
All ready for welding to the frame.
Next thing to do was to locate the motor mount frame attachments. These mounts are from Chassis Engineering with one piece bolted to the lugs on the block, and a corresponding bracket welded to the frame. Between the two is a rubber "donut" bushing and thru-bolt.
I measured the thickness for the donut, and clamped a piece wood of the same thickness to the bottom of the engine side of the mount. The bottom of the wood will be the top of the frame side of the mount.
These mounts are far enough forward on the frame that they will need to be coped into the side of the crossmember to fit correctly. I placed the top of the mount against the bottom of the wood spacer, slid it forward, and scribed a line on the side of the mount to see how much I need to cut.
I don't have a bandsaw or plasma cutter, so I used a metal cutting blade in a jig saw, and it cut just fine. All fit-up after initial cut will be done with a grinder.