After a lot of measurements and trial-and-error changes, I got the motor situated and set drivetrain angles. The engine/trans will be tilted down 1 degree, with the pinion angle set at 1 degree up. Measuring the driveshaft angle (all measurements for the engine/trans, driveshaft, and pinion are referenced from the level floor) gave me .8 degrees with the driveshaft tilted down towards the front.
The 1 degree angle of the engine plus the .8 degrees of the shaft gave me a net u-joint angle of 1.8 degrees both front and back. Acceptable range is from 1 to 3 degrees, so I'm good to go.
It was time to put the body back on for a while to check more clearances and finalize engine location. I came up with a way of lifting the body using my engine hoist. It's not the best way, but with just my wife and me doing it, it works pretty well. Not a substitute for 4 or 5 people lifting it...I may build an a-frame setup and make it an easier one man (and wife) operation.
It took some time, but the body is now back on, and I uncovered the engine to do some more adjustments. The distributor will be about 2" from the firewall. This looks like it will work. Any farther back will be too tight. Lots of room on the sides, valve covers will clear just fine.
It looks like the motor mounts will need some work. They will probably need to be "coped" to fit around the rear portion of the crossmember. Something I did not plan on, but still do-able.
Now that the engine is "in", I centered it up within the frame. I just made a small wooden cradle for it to sit in, independent of the frame. This way, I'll be able to roll the chassis front to back, which in turn will make it easier to set final location. I took an educated guess for right now on engine height. After body gets on and front end is mocked up, I'll figure out actual mounting height.
Engine/trans "tilt" was preliminary set at 2 degrees...rear pinion angle was likewise set at 2 degrees. I then mocked up the driveshaft to check the u-joint angles. Driveshaft angle was a little over 4 degrees plus the 2 degrees on the trans and rear gave over six degrees u-joint angle...way too much. Part of the problem is the short length of driveshaft. This shaft will be about 30" long. Had I a longer wheelbase car, the angles would be less. More adjustments will be necessary. Options will be to raise the engine or decrease tilt and pinion angle, maybe a combination of both.
Next, the body goes back on...
The rear brakes were somewhat of a problem. Not too many disc setups will work with 15" wheels, and since I had my mind set on these wheels (15 x 14" E-T Five Windows), I ended up with this set of SSBC single-piston brakes with 11.25" rotors and aluminum caliper with parking brake.
Here's the whole setup ready to go on. The caliper mounting bracket is a two-piece setup, with the split bracket being sandwiched between the original bearing retainer and the axle flange. When I ordered the rear, I had the "late big Ford" axle flanges installed, which uses the large 3.15" bearing.
Next pic shows the brackets all bolted up. Because the axle has been narrowed considerably, there was no room to mount the caliper assembly to the rear of the axle. It interfered with the coil-over shock, so it had to go in front.
Enough of starting up the engine on the test stand....time to see if it fits. I took off the blower/carb assembly because I didn't have good attachment points for the hoist, so it came off for now.
I bolted up the trans and swung it into place.
I have the engine supported off of the floor, independent of the frame. Now I can move the engine up/down/left/right for fit-up. This also gives me room to fit up the motor mounts.
PVC pipe in third photo substitutes for coil-over spring to simulate ride height.
Hopefully, I'll be able to keep the alternator down low, I may have interference problems with steering rack.