It took a lot of trips back and forth to the grinder, but here's the finished mount.
The drivers side worked out the same, however it is located 5/8" farther forward on the frame, so I needed to cope out more on that side. This is because the lugs on the Hemi block are offset, so the frame mounts are not on the same centerline front-to-back.
Last two views show the finished arrangement from the top and bottom with the donut and bolt installed.
All ready for welding to the frame.
Next thing to do was to locate the motor mount frame attachments. These mounts are from Chassis Engineering with one piece bolted to the lugs on the block, and a corresponding bracket welded to the frame. Between the two is a rubber "donut" bushing and thru-bolt.
I measured the thickness for the donut, and clamped a piece wood of the same thickness to the bottom of the engine side of the mount. The bottom of the wood will be the top of the frame side of the mount.
These mounts are far enough forward on the frame that they will need to be coped into the side of the crossmember to fit correctly. I placed the top of the mount against the bottom of the wood spacer, slid it forward, and scribed a line on the side of the mount to see how much I need to cut.
I don't have a bandsaw or plasma cutter, so I used a metal cutting blade in a jig saw, and it cut just fine. All fit-up after initial cut will be done with a grinder.
After a lot of measurements and trial-and-error changes, I got the motor situated and set drivetrain angles. The engine/trans will be tilted down 1 degree, with the pinion angle set at 1 degree up. Measuring the driveshaft angle (all measurements for the engine/trans, driveshaft, and pinion are referenced from the level floor) gave me .8 degrees with the driveshaft tilted down towards the front.
The 1 degree angle of the engine plus the .8 degrees of the shaft gave me a net u-joint angle of 1.8 degrees both front and back. Acceptable range is from 1 to 3 degrees, so I'm good to go.
It was time to put the body back on for a while to check more clearances and finalize engine location. I came up with a way of lifting the body using my engine hoist. It's not the best way, but with just my wife and me doing it, it works pretty well. Not a substitute for 4 or 5 people lifting it...I may build an a-frame setup and make it an easier one man (and wife) operation.
It took some time, but the body is now back on, and I uncovered the engine to do some more adjustments. The distributor will be about 2" from the firewall. This looks like it will work. Any farther back will be too tight. Lots of room on the sides, valve covers will clear just fine.
It looks like the motor mounts will need some work. They will probably need to be "coped" to fit around the rear portion of the crossmember. Something I did not plan on, but still do-able.
Now that the engine is "in", I centered it up within the frame. I just made a small wooden cradle for it to sit in, independent of the frame. This way, I'll be able to roll the chassis front to back, which in turn will make it easier to set final location. I took an educated guess for right now on engine height. After body gets on and front end is mocked up, I'll figure out actual mounting height.
Engine/trans "tilt" was preliminary set at 2 degrees...rear pinion angle was likewise set at 2 degrees. I then mocked up the driveshaft to check the u-joint angles. Driveshaft angle was a little over 4 degrees plus the 2 degrees on the trans and rear gave over six degrees u-joint angle...way too much. Part of the problem is the short length of driveshaft. This shaft will be about 30" long. Had I a longer wheelbase car, the angles would be less. More adjustments will be necessary. Options will be to raise the engine or decrease tilt and pinion angle, maybe a combination of both.
Next, the body goes back on...