With all of the adjust-ability in this rear suspension, I thought I would lay it out in AutoCad so that I could graphically see how this setup will work based upon different link locations and angles.
I first scanned in a drawing of the bare frame, then measured all of the attachment points on both the rear and frame and drew them in. I set up my axle centerline heights based upon tire/wheel combination, along with wheelbase length. From here, I will be able to rotate the rear, change the rake of the frame, and change mounting points of the links.
I've read a lot of the threads on the board regarding 4 link adjustments, and its all very heady stuff. I'm starting to understand it all, thanks to some very knowledgeable people on this board.
Later on I hope to use this for chassis tuning as it relates to anti-squat, instant centers and all of the other stuff I'm just beginning to understand.
Here's a few drawings of what I have so far.
I find that if you enlarge the images once you open them, it shows up clearer....
Just a few more photos showing rear end mock-up. Second pic shows the diagonal triangulated bar to keep the rear from moving side-side.
I also set up the rear to be centered on the pinion, not the housing. Engine/trans, driveshaft, and pinion are all on same vertical centerline, which in turn is centered in the frame.
In between working on the front end and the rear, I took the body off the frame which made setup of the rear a lot easier. I put paper on the floor and transferred all measurements and centerlines to the paper. The first pic shows the front end set on blocks to simulate ride height based upon tire/wheel combination and lower control arm geometry. The front cross-member comes out to just over 5" above the ground.
I also laid out some paper on the floor at the rear and established a centerline down the length of the chassis.
Second pic shows layout at rear. Rear is Dana 60 with Outlaw's four link suspension. I set the frame at an estimated ride height in the rear by blocking it up independently of the frame. Wheelbase is 101", so I measured back from the front spindles and marked a centerline for the rear axle centerline. Once that was done, I could play around with the link bars and set a preliminary pinion angle. For starters, I was looking for about 3 degrees up on the pinion...
Well, that didn't work out so well. Even with the top link bars extended as far as possible (still maintaining enough thread engagement on the Heim end) and turning in the bottom bars as much as possible, I was not able to get even close to the pinion angle I needed. I was still down about 1.8 degrees. Wheelbase was about 101.5"...
I figured that if the bottom bar was shortened, it would move the rear forward enough to meet the 101" wheelbase dimension. This would also make the top bars shorter(more thread engagement on the top Heim end), and allow adjustment in top bar to achieve upward pinion angle.
After some consultation with Outlaw, and careful measuring, I needed to have the bottom bars cut by 3/4" and threaded deeper.
I had the bars cut and re-threaded, re-installed everything, and that did the trick. I now have enough adjustment in the bars.
Part of the Heidt's package was the Wilwood Dynalite brakes. I went for the polished hubs, drilled rotors, and sway bar. The kit also came with Wilwood's billet aluminum polished calipers. I really don't like them, although they are very popular. I wanted the contrast of the black calipers instead, so I sold the polished ones, and bought the black calipers instead. I think it looks better, and that's what counts...
Just a few pictures of the finished brake setup.
Now that the engine is complete, the next step will be the frame/chassis setup. I ordered my Outlaw frame with a Heidt's Superride II front suspension. Outlaw installed the cross member and hung all of the parts, but now it was time to setup everything so that I could establish ride height, do a preliminary alignment and take some measurements.
I leveled up the frame side-side and used a spindle mount caster/camber gauge to get the alignment in the ballpark. The gauge worked fine, and I was able to easily set caster and camber by turning the adjusters on the upper A-arms.
Preliminary setup was with the lower A-arms parallel to the ground. I substituted a turnbuckle for the coil-over to make adjustments. So far, so good.