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View steve392's profile Entries: 204
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06-15-2006 05:24 AM Hemi Assembly-measuring with clay
I wanted to calculate the actual compression ratio, and one of the things I needed to know was the volume of the valve reliefs. So I took some modeling clay and filled up the reliefs and trimmed off the excess clay. I carefully removed the clay "plugs" and dumped them into a container graduated in cc's. The container already had a known quantity of water in it, so when I added the clay, the change in volume was the total volume of the valve reliefs...neat.
I entered all of the dimensions I had into the formula, and came up with a c.r. of 7.83....a little lower than I wanted. Even with using the thinnest head gasket, (.032) thats the best I could do. I really wanted a ratio of at least 8:1.
The decision was made to have the heads shaved and take a little out of the combustion chamber volume. More on that later...
I also mocked up the heads on the block to do some more checking of clearances. I checked valve to piston clearances again using clay. Turned crank over a couple of times, and removed head. Valves put indentations in clay that I sectioned and measured. I had way more clearance than I thought, which also contributed to the lower than expected c.r. I had about .250" clearance, where the minimum is about .080-.100"! I guess I'll have no problem going with a higher lift cam if I want....


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  [Entry #14]

06-09-2006 07:59 AM Hemi Assembly-Timing Cover
After degreeing cam, it was time to button up the front. I went with a Hot Heads aluminum cover. Also used were Hot Heads adapters for a BBC water pump.
Also seen in this photo are the two key-ways on the crank for the damper.This was recommended for blower applications. The slot in the cover for the timing pointer is made for the BHJ damper that I will be using.



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  [Entry #13]

06-09-2006 07:51 AM Hemi Assembly-Degreeing Cam
First thing to do in degreeing cam was to find top dead center on # 1 cylinder. This was done using a piston stop and rotating crank both ways, taking readings off the degree wheel, adding up the numbers and dividing by two. Degree wheel set at this number, piston stop removed, and crank rotated to TDC...
I verified TDC also by using a dial indicator just to make sure.

The cam I chose is a Comp Cams Extreme Energy grind, with 230 duration at .050", .490" lift on the intake and .480" lift on the exhaust. Lobe separation is 112 degrees and is ground 4 degrees advanced.

This cam is an asymmetrical grind cam, so the intake centerline method of degreeing is not accurate.
I used the lift at .050" to verify timing. The crank was rotated until the cam was on its base circle, and the dial indicator on lifter set at zero. Crank was rotated until dial indicator was at .050" lifter rise. Degree wheel reading was then checked against cam card numbers.
All numbers were verified against cam card, and I came in about 1 degree retarded from numbers on card. I installed a 1 degree advance key in cam slot, re-measured and came within 1/2 degree of numbers on card.
This was an all-day process, and I can't remember how many times I actually checked and double checked, but I'm satisfied with the results.



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  [Entry #12]

06-09-2006 07:28 AM Hemi Assembly-Timing Chain
Next came the timing chain. I chose a Cloyes True Roller.
On the bench, the timing marks were lined up with mark at 6 o'clock for cam gear and at 12 o'clock for the crank gear.
Installed keys in both crank and cam snouts, and slid gears on.
The Cloyes crank gear came with key-ways for both 4 degrees advance and retrard timing. I went with "straight-up".
The angled steel piece is the original oil trough that directs oil away from the front crank seal. In all of the Hemi buildup articles and pictures I've seen, this part is never mentioned, but still important to use.


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  [Entry #11]

06-06-2006 05:47 AM Hemi Assembly-Rods & Pistons
Like I mentioned earlier, by using the 426/440 Chrysler rods, I had to have them narrowed to 392 specs. Rod side clearances came in between .010" and .011".
I was originally shooting for a zero deck height, but as you can see, I'm about .008" in the hole...still okay.
These Ross pistons were custom order items, and with the figures I gave them regarding block height (set by machine shop when they decked block) and rod length, the tolerances added up put the pistons a little lower than calculated. This had a minor effect on compression ratio, that I compensated for later with the head work.



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  [Entry #10]

Pages (41): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 [39] 40 41


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