The fuel tank needs to be vented to the outside of the vehicle and I decided to use aluminum tubing from the top of the tank, down through the trunk floor, ending in a breather filter. A space was found on the underside of the body next to the fuel lines where a small filter could be located. The tubing was routed up as high as possible on the rear bulkhead, which is just about even with the filler connection. The tubing extends through the floor about an inch. The end of the tubing was slightly flared to keep the breather in place. The breather itself is a small K-N clamp-on unit. The last photo shows the completed installation. The vent connection on the tank is -8AN, the vent tube is -6AN. I've read a lot regarding fuel tank vents, and the use of a looped vent line to control fumes is something I''m not convinced will make a big difference. This is one of those things that may need to be revised later on; perhaps even some kind of charcoal canister setup will be needed.
These photos show the completion of the sub dash. The first two photos show the cutout made for the column drop, and the A/C vents installed. The third photo shows the cutout for the switch panel used for the lights and wipers. I modified a Vintage Air Control unit (so that these switches would match the Vintage Air control panel) with different switches. These switches will control headlights, wipers, dimmer, and courtesy lighting. The fourth photo shows the holes being drilled for pushbutton switches which will control the latches for the tilt front end, line lock and trunk latch. The last two photos show the finished sub-dash with all cutouts made, and the dash assembled in the Willys. We're still undecided on whether or not the sub dash will be painted or left as a brushed finish. The plan right now is to leave it unpainted until after the interior is done to see how it looks. If we don't like it, we'll paint it to match the dash. It all depends on the contrast with the rest of the aluminum colored pieces.
The Willys dashboard alone is not deep enough to house all of the instruments, buttons and switches, so it was always planned to have a small sub dash installed to hold the A/C vents, as well as a few switches and buttons for various functions. The original thought was to fabricate the dash either out of ABS plastic that would need to be upholstered, or bend up a sheet metal dash that would be painted. Either way, I would likely have to farm out some if not all of the fabrication. I finally came up with a do-it-yourself option using some 2'' deep aluminum channel. The shape would follow the angles of the upper dash, but be recessed back a bit for a better look. I measured the angles between the center section and both angled side pieces. Pie-cuts were made at the bend points; the channel was bent to the correct angle and welded back up. Two angled return pieces were added to each end of the sub dash to close off the ends and match the sides of the upper dash. I was able to fabricate the entire sub dash in one piece from a 48'' length of stock. The first four photos show the fabrication procedure, while the last two show the trial fit up to the upper dash. I added some reinforcement to the inside bottom lip of the fiberglass upper dash using some aluminum tabs. The tabs were drilled and tapped for the machine screws that attach the two together. Paper cutouts show the locations of the A/C vents.
The first two photos show some of the wiring effort at the dash area. It was a lot more challenging to keep everything neat and routed properly here than at the rear bulkhead. A lot less room to work in combined with a monster harness for the EFI that needed to be routed made for some tight conditions. It took a few tries with different routings to get it all to fit. The last four photos are back at the battery box. The Holley HP EFI gets its power directly from the battery per Holley's instructions. The extra terminals on the battery came in handy for these connections. The cables enter the box from opposite sides and cross over to their respective terminals. The 1/0 positive cable going to the right is for the remote solenoid supply, and the #2 cable leaving the left side of the box goes to a remote jumper stud located underneath on the frame. The 1/0 ground cable goes down through the body to the main ground lug on the frame, while the #10 wire zip-tied to it goes to a ground bus located on the bulkhead.
The last photo shows the completed effort, with the roll bar temporarily installed.
The wiring effort continued with sorting out where each wire needed to go. Some stayed only in the rear of the car, but most went forward to the dash or engine area. We decided to route two separate bundles of wires along the top of the driveshaft tunnel, one going to circuits on the left of the vehicle and the other going to circuits on the right. 'Gray stuff' wiring channel from Ron Francis Wiring was used to keep things neat as the wires were routed forward. It turns out that there were a lot more wires to run than would fit into just two channels, so another layer of channel was placed on top of the first. The point was to keep all of the wiring on the topmost portion of the tunnel to allow for the center console to be fabricated in such a way that all of the wiring was concealed inside. Photos were sent to our interior shop just to make sure the wiring was not going to be in the way of carpeting and console. These photos show the ongoing progress. Relay panels are located and being wired up, most of the wires going forward are routed through the channels, and wire bundles secured with hundreds of zip-ties.