The fuel tank was originally going to be filled directly via a filler cap located on the top of the tank. That idea was scrapped in favor of a remote fill setup. The fuel door and filler cap installation was previously covered in one of the bodywork entries. It was now time to run a pipe from the filler to the top of the tank. I bought a couple of 2'' diameter long tangent stainless tubing bends for the filler. After some trial and error mockups, the first bend attached to the filler was cut. It took a while with an angle gauge and some pieces of cardboard mock-ups to get the correct angle for the bend. Once the angle was determined, the bend was pie-cut on a cutoff saw. The first two photos show the fit up. The filler pipe also has a slight downward slope from the filler to the tank. The second bend was then fitted up, again keeping a slight slope to the tank. The last photo shows the trunk side of the filler pipe, with an aluminum elbow into the top of the tank cover. The tank cover also allows access to the fuel pump and filter. A short section of rubber filler hose and a few clamps will connect the pipes together.
Here are a few photos of the rear bulkhead. It serves to isolate the passenger compartment from the trunk and fuel tank area, and also provides a mounting surface for almost of the electrical components. There was already a tubular steel reinforcement bar across the back, which the trunk hinges attached to, and it turned out to be an ideal place to mount the bulkhead panels. I started out with some cardboard cut-outs just to get the shape, and then transferred that to some 1/8'' plywood. The plywood was then cut, sanded and fitted to the opening. The bulkhead was made in two halves as it would have been difficult to install in one piece.
Once the plywood shape was finalized, the pattern was transferred to a sheet of 1/2'' MDO plywood. Two halves were cut out, and slots were then cut in each side for trunk hinge clearance. The last two photos show the finished and painted bulkhead including installation of the fuel filler pipe. The two tubes attached to the floor and angling forward are the rear roll bar braces.
The Vintage Air unit that was selected for the Willys has a defrost function, so it was necessary to route two small flexible ducts up to the windshield area. A couple of wooden blocks were made in order to space the defrost funnel far enough out from the glass to allow for correct bezel location on the dash top. First two photos show the funnels in place with some foam on top to seal against the dash. The third photo shows the bezel that was used, which was also supplied by Vintage Air. The dash had already been painted by this time, so it took a lot of precautionary taping to make sure the paint wasn't damaged when the openings were cut in the dash. The last photo shows the finished job.
These are just a few photos of some of the other electronics mounted behind the dash. I found a good place for the Mallory Ignition box just in front of the A/C/Heat unit. It will be easily accessible with the right dash panel removed. I also found a place for the Holley HP ECU for the fuel injection system. I fabricated a few brackets for the ECU and mounted it to the left of the A/C unit. It's also far enough away from the Ignition box to avoid interference. The last two photos show the Pioneer GPS navigation unit and antenna I decided to add. The stereo head unit will be mounted in the center console and will have a retractable screen, which I'll use for the navigation and rear view camera. The GPS antenna is mounted directly under the windshield and will have a clear access vertically through the glass.
First photo shows the finished gauge panels and how they attach to the dash with small machine screws at each corner. The panels will be painted dash color. The small hole in the center of the right panel is for the pushbutton start. The second photo shows the indicator light panel I had made up with a few custom icons for tilt control and line lock besides the usual turn signals, alternator light and high beam indicator. The third photo shows the slot I cut into the left panel directly between the two large gauges for the rear mounted indicator panel. The last three photos show the finished panels before painting. I decided to add a third removable panel for the right side of the dash to balance out the design. It's really a cover plate that I'll be able to remove to access the ignition box and A/C/Heat unit if necessary. I also took a little time to dress up the panel with the Willys logo.