For my PCV system, I wanted to use a PCV valve in one valve cover and a breather in the other. The problem was that I didn't want to mess up those nice Hemi covers, and didn't want to put some huge breather on that covered up the "Firepower" script. I settled on a pair of Moon 30 degree breathers that I cut down to fit the upper edge of the covers. Not too big and ugly...
The breather on the left side has a foam filter in it and is open to the outside air. The breather on the right cover is blocked off from the outside air, but has the PCV valve installed in it.
I also made a baffle to fit inside the covers to prevent oil from being drawn out thru the PCV valve. If anyone has the Tex Smith Complete Chrysler Hemi manual, this setup is the same as described in the book.
Final assembly of flywheel, clutch and bellhousing...First pic is a shot of the twin disc clutch setup with first disc installed and the floater bolted up. Notice anything different about the disc? There's no damper springs...McLeod explained that they were not needed. With the twin disc setup, the spring pressures can be a lot less but still have the same clamping force spread out over a larger area, and I won't have a real hard "grab" when the clutch is let out....we'll see.
Next shot is clutch completely installed. Diaphragm style pressure plate is also standard.
Last pic shows finished installation...Good to go....
I'm using parts from many different vendors for this setup, and I thought I may run into problems with the input shaft being the correct length. With the trans & crank adapters, Mcleod Flywheel/Clutch, Lakewood bellhousing, and Tremec transmission, it was a possibility that somewhere along the line, something wasn't going to fit. I test-fit the transmission onto the bellhousing to make sure that the input shaft was correct and fit into the pilot bearing. I was able to take a photo through the access hole in the bellhousing. The input shaft fits exactly where its supposed to be. Sweet!
Next I installed the clutch and took a measurement between the throwout bearing surface on the transmission and the clutch fingers. I needed this so that I could order the correct throwout bearing from McLeod. The bearing will be a hydraulic unit, so I won't need to fabricate a mechanical linkage.
Last picture shows only glitch in the mock-up. I went to rotate the crank, and found that the clutch housing hit the inside of the bellhousing near the starter bulge. The clutch is a twin disc setup and is higher than most clutch styles. A little work with a grinder on the inside of the bellhousing, and all was okay.
Here's the flywheel all bolted up. The flywheel/clutch is a combo unit from McLeod Clutches. The flywheel is the same as a '60's 426 Hemi. Also, the pilot bearing can be seen in the crank adapter.
Next came time to bolt up the bellhousing and check for alignment. First I checked to see that the face of the flywheel and face of bellhousing (transmission mounting surface) were parallel. I set up dial indicator on flywheel with pointer perpendicular to face of bellhousing, and took readings every 90 degrees. Readings were from -.002" to +.002". Acceptable runout numbers are -.005" to +.005" so I was good to go.
Next measurement was to check that center bore of bellhousing was concentric with crank centerline. Re-set dial indicator and again took readings every 90 degrees for two rotations of crank. Readings were from -.001" to +.004" for a total of .005". Mis-alignment is 1/2 of total reading for .0025". Lakewood specs call for maximum of .005", and McLeod calls for .008". Either way I'm well below that so offset dowel pins will not be needed.
I'm going with a manual transmission for my street rod. First pic shows the adapter plate for a manual Mopar bellhousing. This will provide the proper spacing from the block to the face of the bellhousing. Bolt pattern on block is same as small block Mopar. Six bolts go into block, and the adapter contains the two dowel pins for bellhousing alignment.
The bellhousing I'm using is a Lakewood scattershield for the 340 Mopar, and it comes with a block plate that fits between the flywheel and block to contain the flywheel/clutch should it let go.
Also needed when mating the crank to an aftermarket flywheel is an adapter to register the flywheel to the crank. The roller pilot bearing for the transmission input shaft is press fit into the crank adapter.