I picked up a used GM truck radiator for $20 and added an electric fan. I wired everything up using relays for the fan and secondary ignition. Everything else is fused and ready to go.
I added a battery tray to the side of the stand also. Battery cables and wiring all routed to stay away from headers. I hooked up the alternator (1 wire) to charge the battery, even though I didn't need to for run-in on the stand.
Also seen in the second picture is the engine pre-luber that I will be using for start up. I learned about this from threads on this board, so I thought I would try it. I'll have the system pressurized with oil when I turn the key. Also seen is the O2 sensor in the left header pipe for the Innovate Motorsports LM-1 A/F ratio meter.
The only thing left to do is to drop in the distributor, add some plugs and wires and its ready to go.
The cooling system has been checked, two small leaks found and fixed. The oiling system has been filled and tested both with the pre-luber and by drill turning oil pump. Fuel system tested and good to go with pump putting out 6 psi and no leaks. Rebuilt original AFB will be used for first start up and tuning.
After I start it up and everything checks out, the carb and manifold come off, and the blower and dual Demons go on.
Now that the engine is put together, it's time to start it up and break in the cam and seat the rings. I made a stand that I could not only start the engine on, but use it as a place to hold and store it when it is not in the car. I made it large enough so that I could also bolt up the transmission and be able to move around the whole unit.
A bunch of 2x4's and some plywood later and I had a very sturdy stand that I could roll around. Of course its not complete without a "dashboard", so I made up a place to hold the gauges and ignition switch. The flat portion will hold the tach and A/F ratio meters. I'll monitor oil pressure, water temperature, vacuum, RPM, and Air/Fuel ratio.
The fuel supply system consists of a 1 gallon fuel cell and electric fuel pump to feed the carburetor.
For my PCV system, I wanted to use a PCV valve in one valve cover and a breather in the other. The problem was that I didn't want to mess up those nice Hemi covers, and didn't want to put some huge breather on that covered up the "Firepower" script. I settled on a pair of Moon 30 degree breathers that I cut down to fit the upper edge of the covers. Not too big and ugly...
The breather on the left side has a foam filter in it and is open to the outside air. The breather on the right cover is blocked off from the outside air, but has the PCV valve installed in it.
I also made a baffle to fit inside the covers to prevent oil from being drawn out thru the PCV valve. If anyone has the Tex Smith Complete Chrysler Hemi manual, this setup is the same as described in the book.
Final assembly of flywheel, clutch and bellhousing...First pic is a shot of the twin disc clutch setup with first disc installed and the floater bolted up. Notice anything different about the disc? There's no damper springs...McLeod explained that they were not needed. With the twin disc setup, the spring pressures can be a lot less but still have the same clamping force spread out over a larger area, and I won't have a real hard "grab" when the clutch is let out....we'll see.
Next shot is clutch completely installed. Diaphragm style pressure plate is also standard.
Last pic shows finished installation...Good to go....
I'm using parts from many different vendors for this setup, and I thought I may run into problems with the input shaft being the correct length. With the trans & crank adapters, Mcleod Flywheel/Clutch, Lakewood bellhousing, and Tremec transmission, it was a possibility that somewhere along the line, something wasn't going to fit. I test-fit the transmission onto the bellhousing to make sure that the input shaft was correct and fit into the pilot bearing. I was able to take a photo through the access hole in the bellhousing. The input shaft fits exactly where its supposed to be. Sweet!
Next I installed the clutch and took a measurement between the throwout bearing surface on the transmission and the clutch fingers. I needed this so that I could order the correct throwout bearing from McLeod. The bearing will be a hydraulic unit, so I won't need to fabricate a mechanical linkage.
Last picture shows only glitch in the mock-up. I went to rotate the crank, and found that the clutch housing hit the inside of the bellhousing near the starter bulge. The clutch is a twin disc setup and is higher than most clutch styles. A little work with a grinder on the inside of the bellhousing, and all was okay.