The last major part of the project, aside from the interior work, was the wiring and electrical system. The rear bulkhead provided the mounting surface for almost all of the electrical components. The battery box was located between the wheel tubs on a small platform. Once that was done, the other major components were located. The remote disconnect solenoid was bolted to the bulkhead in a place that would allow the positive cable from the battery to be routed neatly to the solenoid, and then from the solenoid to the starter. The main fuse block is a Painless Wiring 28 circuit trunk mount chassis harness. All of the wiring was extra length, and there was plenty left over once all of the circuits were tied in. The third photo shows most of the components mounted to the bulkhead. Besides the remote solenoid and fuse block, there was room for the keyless start module, electric fan controller, positive and negative bus bars, auxiliary fuse blocks, and the stereo amplifier. The battery and ground cables enter/exit the body through the floor on each side of the battery box. The fifth photo shows the solenoid wired up, and the wires from the fuse block are just getting sorted out.
The last photo shows one of the two relay panels that I had made up for the electrical system. There are a total of 17 relays on two separate panels. I debated on making these panels up myself, but decided to have them done by the auto electric company that I was buying all of my parts from. This saved a lot of time. While the panels were being wired up, I was able to keep moving forward on the rest of the wiring. I say ''I'', but I really mean ''we''. My wife helped me with the entire wiring effort, and it's due to her that it came out as well as it did. ''We'' were able to get the job done much quicker (and better) than if I had tried to do it alone.
The emergency brake handle was located on the driveshaft tunnel. A slot was cut into the top of the tunnel, and the brake lever was attached using the supplied angle brackets. I ended up bending each bracket to match the curvature of the tunnel. The third and fourth photos show the brake cable and anchor setup as seen from underneath. The cable anchor is mounted to the rear cross member. All of the cables and the brake lever are from Lokar. The fifth photo shows the switch attached to the lever assembly for the indicator light.
The last photo shows a different setup for the lever than originally intended. The four angle brackets were mounted to the underneath portion of the tunnel, which set the lever too low to the floor on the inside. So, the angle brackets were relocated to the inside of the tunnel, which raised the lever up high enough for clearance above the carpeting. The grey channel will be for routing wires to the front of the vehicle from the fuse block.
The fuel tank was originally going to be filled directly via a filler cap located on the top of the tank. That idea was scrapped in favor of a remote fill setup. The fuel door and filler cap installation was previously covered in one of the bodywork entries. It was now time to run a pipe from the filler to the top of the tank. I bought a couple of 2'' diameter long tangent stainless tubing bends for the filler. After some trial and error mockups, the first bend attached to the filler was cut. It took a while with an angle gauge and some pieces of cardboard mock-ups to get the correct angle for the bend. Once the angle was determined, the bend was pie-cut on a cutoff saw. The first two photos show the fit up. The filler pipe also has a slight downward slope from the filler to the tank. The second bend was then fitted up, again keeping a slight slope to the tank. The last photo shows the trunk side of the filler pipe, with an aluminum elbow into the top of the tank cover. The tank cover also allows access to the fuel pump and filter. A short section of rubber filler hose and a few clamps will connect the pipes together.
Here are a few photos of the rear bulkhead. It serves to isolate the passenger compartment from the trunk and fuel tank area, and also provides a mounting surface for almost of the electrical components. There was already a tubular steel reinforcement bar across the back, which the trunk hinges attached to, and it turned out to be an ideal place to mount the bulkhead panels. I started out with some cardboard cut-outs just to get the shape, and then transferred that to some 1/8'' plywood. The plywood was then cut, sanded and fitted to the opening. The bulkhead was made in two halves as it would have been difficult to install in one piece.
Once the plywood shape was finalized, the pattern was transferred to a sheet of 1/2'' MDO plywood. Two halves were cut out, and slots were then cut in each side for trunk hinge clearance. The last two photos show the finished and painted bulkhead including installation of the fuel filler pipe. The two tubes attached to the floor and angling forward are the rear roll bar braces.
The Vintage Air unit that was selected for the Willys has a defrost function, so it was necessary to route two small flexible ducts up to the windshield area. A couple of wooden blocks were made in order to space the defrost funnel far enough out from the glass to allow for correct bezel location on the dash top. First two photos show the funnels in place with some foam on top to seal against the dash. The third photo shows the bezel that was used, which was also supplied by Vintage Air. The dash had already been painted by this time, so it took a lot of precautionary taping to make sure the paint wasn't damaged when the openings were cut in the dash. The last photo shows the finished job.