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01-21-2013 04:31 PM Willys - Radiator Hoses
The lower radiator hose was made up of preformed silicone elbows and aluminum tubing. The elbow connected to the water pump inlet reduces in size from 2 inches down to 1 3/4 inches to match the radiator outlet, with a small section of aluminum tubing connecting the two.
The upper radiator hose assembly uses the same silicone hose elbows and aluminum tubing. At the thermostat housing mounted to the cylinder head, a spacer was used with two connections for temperature sending units, one for the EFI, and one for the water temperature gauge and electric fan controller. T-bolt type hose clamps will be used at each end of the assembly, and Gates Power Grip shrink-type clamps will be used for the connections at the aluminum tube between the elbows.


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  [Entry #184]

01-21-2013 11:32 AM Willys - Hose Clamps and Brackets
Since the Willys has a tilt-front and there are no fixed inner fenders, the hoses need to be either supported from the frame or the engine itself. I decided to make up a bracket for the hose separators so that the hoses would be supported from the right valve cover studs. Two strips were made from stainless flat stock and attached to the studs. The hose separators were in turn attached to the brackets. I decided to add an additional strip between the two brackets in order to stiffen up the assembly and prevent the brackets from swiveling on the studs. The last three photos show the completed hose separator clamps with mounting bracket, and finally the hoses installed. The top hose is the heater hose return line, the middle hose is the radiator vent line, and the bottom hose is the A/C line from the condenser/drier to the evaporator.


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  [Entry #183]

01-21-2013 11:28 AM Willys - Hose Clamps and Brackets
I wanted to hold the A/C and heater hoses in place using some hose separator clamps similar to the ones I used for the fuel lines. The trouble was that I needed a separator for three hoses, and each hose was a different diameter. Since no separators were commercially available, I decided to make my own. I started out with some 1/2” x 3/4” aluminum barstock cut into 6” long strips. The strips were welded together at the ends to hold them together during machining. The centerline of each hole was marked on the stock and the drilling was started. I was able to use a step drill for most of the machining. The largest hole was through-drilled, since it was the largest diameter of the step drill. The two smaller holes needed to be drilled halfway through each side. A straight carbide cutter mounted in the drill press was used to open up the two smaller holes to the correct diameter. The third photo shows the separator assembly after all holes were drilled.
In order to keep the separator halves clamped together and also to attach them to a bracket, holes were drilled and tapped between the hose openings. Once all of the drilling procedures were done, I was able to cut the ends off of the aluminum blanks where they were welded together. This gave me two hose clamp halves. I made up a total of two of these separators, and the last photo shows the completed separator clamps. Later on they will be finished to match the fuel line clamps.


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  [Entry #182]

01-21-2013 09:57 AM Willys - Heater Hoses
For the heater hoses, I picked an Aeroquip hose and push-on hose ends. The hose is outwardly similar to, and matches the A/C hose in appearance. The hose ends are from XRP and will also use an optional hose clamp that looks similar to the A/C hose clips. The second photo shows one of the assembled heater hoses. This one is to/from the radiator expansion tank mounted on the firewall. It connects to a bulkhead tee at the firewall. Inside the firewall, the bulkhead tee is attached to the outlet from the heater core. Both the heater outlet and the expansion tank return through one hose back to the water pump inlet.
The heater inlet hose originates from the left cylinder head, and goes through the firewall using a 90 degree bulkhead fitting. Inside the firewall, the heater hose goes through the water inlet valve and then to the heater core connection. There was not a lot of room left under/behind the dash to route the hoses, but I got them tucked up as best as possible.
The last photo shows the completed layout of the heater, A/C, and radiator vent hose routing near the front of the engine.


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  [Entry #181]

01-21-2013 09:11 AM Willys - A/C Hoses
Due to space limitations, I wasn’t able to use the typical 4-hose bulkhead connection for both the AC and heater hoses. The bulkhead connector for the two A/C hoses mounts through the right firewall “horn” on the Willys. Inside the firewall, a couple of 45 degree fittings were used to route the hoses up to the evaporator connections. Two more 45 degree fittings were used at the evaporator to complete the hose routing. The smaller #6 line is the liquid refrigerant line to the evaporator, and the larger #10 line is the (gas) return to the compressor. Last photo shows the finished #8 compressor discharge line back to the condenser.


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  [Entry #180]

Pages (41): 1 2 3 4 [5] 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41


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