Instead of mounting the gauges directly to the dash, I decided to make some removable inserts that would bolt to the dash instead. In doing it this way I'll be able to change or relocate gauges in the future if I decide to. I would just have to make a new panel for the gauge size and arrangement without disturbing the painted dash.
There are two separate panels, one for the area directly behind the steering wheel, and one to the right, in the center portion of the 3-sided Willys dash. The first photo shows the gauge layout. There are a total of eight Auto Meter Ultra Lite gauges consisting of tachometer, speedometer, fuel level and voltmeter on the left panel, and water temperature, oil pressure, boost/vacuum and oil temperature in the right panel. The stock fiberglass dash was cut out to make room for all both of the panels as shown in the second photo. The third and fourth photos show the mockup of the gauges in the dash using a piece of cardboard for the panel. This was to check and see if the gauges would actually clear the brake master cylinder. I ended up moving the dash out over an inch in order to clear everything.
The fifth and sixth photos show the trim rings I made for the left panel gauges. This portion of the panel is actually at an angle to the driver, and I wanted to have the gauges point directly rearward instead of pointing to the left. Trim rings were cut out of aluminum tubing and attached to the panel. The two large rings were tack welded to the plate, and the two small rings were epoxied to the plate.
The last time I posted was over a year ago, and the Willys was back home again after having the finished body put back on the chassis. We've been busy since then doing all of the final assembly, and haven't taken any time to update the journal, so here goes.
The interior was treated to a full covering of Dynamat, including the roof, wheel tubs and floor. Basically, any surface that was in contact with the outside of the vehicle was covered. A layer of Dynaliner insulating foam was also placed on the interior roof and wall sections, as well as the floor and transmission tunnel to help keep out the heat.
The first photo is the Willys out in the sunlight just before being loaded on the trailer for the trip home. The paint looks great, and I'm very satisfied with the color and how it changes between sun and shade. The next three photos show the Willys back home. Those things wrapped up in blankets on the floor are the rear fenders. I couldn't resist posting the last two photos of the tail lights now that the body is finished. The first is just the parking light, and the second is the brake light. Sweet....
The finished chassis is back at Tim's shop to have the now-finished body put back on. It pays to have the right tools...the two-post lift made the body placement effortless. The body was lifted off of the dolly and the chassis was rolled underneath. The body was slowly lowered down onto the frame, the bolt holes were lined up between the body and frame brackets, and then bolted down.
First photo shows the transmission cross member attached to the frame with safety wired bolts. The safety wiring is just a little added insurance and peace of mind and will be done on most of the drivetrain components. The next photo shows the dual oil filter adapter and oil temperature thermostat and oil supply and return lines installed. Also seen is the anchor bracket for the floor-mounted e-brake cables. The next photo shows the engine and transmission installed and bolted in place. The transmission is a Tremec TKO 600, with a McLeod hydraulic throw-out bearing. The fourth photo is another shot of the rear section of the chassis. The oil cooler lines can be seen passing through sleeves in the frame. The two empty holes in the frame opposite the oil cooler lines are for the fuel supply and return lines, which will be installed after the body is back on and the fuel tank is installed. The last photo is the completed chassis with everything re-installed and ready for the body. Exhaust heat shields are in place and body mounts are bolted back on. Now the chassis can be brought back out to the body shop and have finished body put back on.