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01-21-2013 08:05 AM Willys - A/C Hoses
After looking at a few different A/C hose types, I decided on using the Aeroquip E-Z Clip system. Itís do-it-yourself with no need to have the hoses crimped. By making up all of the hose ends myself, I was able to make sure that each hose end was oriented correctly and at the exact length I wanted. Also, I didnít need to make up all of the hoses and take them to a shop to have all the ends crimped with the chance that one of the ends would be incorrectly installed orientation-wise. Besides, I think these ends look a lot better than those crimp collars and definitely better than the stainless braided stuff.
The first photo shows all of the individual pieces needed to make up the hose end: The A/C barrier hose, the hose end, a cage, two clips and the installing pliers. First the hose end nipple is lubricated with A/C-compatible lubricant, and the hose is slipped on. If the other end of the hose is still bare, you can wait to slip the clips onto the hose. Otherwise you need to make sure that they are slipped on the hose before inserting the hose onto the hose end. Next, the cage is installed by snapping it into a groove on the hose end. Two clips are then slipped on the hose and positioned over the grooves in the cage. Using the pliers, the clips are compressed and snap closed. The two clips are positioned directly over the two O-rings on the hose end to provide the seal. The hose end assembly is now complete.


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  [Entry #179]

01-18-2013 08:53 AM Willys - A/C Drier and Hardlines
With the condenser inlet line finished, it was time to route and bend up the outlet line to an area next to the radiator support. From there, the line will change to flexible A/C hose. The hardline from the compressor will also be bent up the same way. The lines needed to be routed in such a way that they did not interfere with the operation of the tilt-front actuators. The actuator was temporarily clamped into place along the side of the radiator frame at its highest point of vertical travel. As long as the hardlines did not interfere with the actuator in this position, everything would fit okay.
The condenser outlet line ended just about where I wanted it to, but the inlet line was too long, and I wanted both hose connections to line up. I had the inlet line cut and re-welded so that both connections lined up. Not shown in the photos, but tubing clamps were added to both lines, which anchored them to the radiator frame. Now that the hardlines were finished, it was time to move on to the A/C hose fabrication.


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  [Entry #178]

01-18-2013 08:39 AM Willys - A/C Drier and Hardlines
I decided to use aluminum hardline for the condenser and drier connections. Vintage Air makes some hardlines with the correct fittings on the ends that just need to be bent to the desired shape. The upper connection on the condenser is a #8 size and is the compressor discharge to the condenser. The lower connection is a #6 and is the condenser outlet to the drier.
There wasnít any place to mount a vertical-style drier along the frame rail or at the firewall, so I decided to use a horizontal-mount unit. The only place to put it was in front of the condenser mounted as low as possible, without blocking off too much air going to the condenser and radiator. First, the #6 line from the condenser to the drier was bent up, which located the drier centerline at the same height as the condenser outlet. Once the drier location was finalized, I made up some aluminum barstock brackets that are bolted to the bottom condenser channel. Also seen in the photo on the drier outlet is a fitting for the binary switch. It turns out that there was no room to put the switch here, so it was relocated further downstream of the drier at the firewall bulkhead connection.


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  [Entry #177]

01-18-2013 07:26 AM Willys - A/C Condenser Install
The A/C condenser is from Vintage Air, but the universal brackets that were provided werenít going to work with the radiator support that I made. I decided to make up some tabs welded to the top and bottom radiator support channels. A few configurations were tried, and the best fit was to have the tabs mounted flush with the channel leg and the condenser bolted to the front of the tab. This gave the correct gap between the condenser and the radiator.
The tabs were welded to the support channel, ground down, and finished off with a radiused edge. There are still a few weld craters to fill in, but okay just for mock-up. The tabs were drilled and tapped for 8-32 screws installed from the back of the tab. Last photo shows the completed tabs with the condenser mounted.


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  [Entry #176]

01-17-2013 06:15 PM Willys - Idler Bracket Rework
First photo shows the water pump boss being milled down. All four bosses were machined in order to true-up the surfaces and make them all the same. There is one long bolt and three short bolts that mount the water pump. The three short bolts need a spacer between the idler bracket and the water pump bosses. The last two photos show the finished idler bracket bolted in place. With the new blower pulleys, the v-belts, idler pulley and blower belt now all fit correctly.


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  [Entry #175]

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