Instead of hold-down straps running across the top of the tank, I specified mounting tabs at each corner. A hole was drilled in each tab and a rubber grommet was installed. Two small threaded stands were fabricated for the front mounting bolts. The stands will be welded to the roll bar brackets which in turn are bolted directly to the frame. The stands keep the tank high enough off of the floor in order to add sound deadener, insulation, and trim.
 (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|
|
|
|
The Willys fuel tank will be mounted in the trunk between the wheel tubs. I started out by making a cardboard mock-up of the tank, making sure that it would clear the closed trunk lid. I furnished the tank fabricator with dimensional drawings for the tank. It was fabricated from stainless steel, with the fuel pump and pre-filter are mounted in the tank to save space. The capacity was calculated out at 19 gallons, not including the volume taken up by the pump and filter. With a little free board at the top of the tank, it should have just less than 18 gallons full.
 (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|
|
|
|
I took a few videos of the tilt front in action:
The first one shows the entire opening and closing sequence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajR-n-p5HcY&feature=g-upl
The second video is more of a close-up of the scissor hinges that I used. These keep the nose of the tilt shell well up and away from the ground.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW2DRREtM-w
The last video is just a shot taken from the front. It looks cool even in the gelcoat that I included it here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxHjE1KEg7w
|
|
|
The ribs on the tilt front shell serve a few different purposes. Not only do they stiffen up the glass shell, they also serve as the mounting point for the hinges and the linear actuators. They also are the attachment point for the grille.
The Alumicraft grille came with mounting tabs on each corner of the frame. The distance between the tabs is what originally set the rib spacing. Unfortunately, the location of the tab mounting holes ended up being right where the rib cutouts were. So I had to cut them off, fabricate up new tabs and weld them back on. I also slotted the holes for a little adjustment and the ribs were drilled and tapped for mounting screws.
Second photo shows the grille bolted in place and the actuator rod pivot plates installed.
Last photo shows the grille and cutout.
 (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|
|
|
|
The tilt shell from Outlaw does not come with the grill opening recess formed into it like the regular fiberglass front end piece does, and its up to the builder to locate the opening and cut it out. I did have a tracing of the original grille opening size and after a little Cad drafting to clean up the shape, I printed out a full sized copy and taped it to the shell. Making sure that it was centered both horizontally and vertically, the shape was transferred to the shell and the rough shape was cut out.
I am not using the stock grille, but instead have a horizontal bar style grille made by Alumicraft which mounts to the shell from the inside. Therefore I will have to finish off the edge of the shell, probably by forming a small radiused lip around the grille opening.
Last photo shows how low the grill opening is in relationship to the engine.
 (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|  (click photo to enlarge)
|
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:50 AM.