The Willys will not have any external door handles, but will be opened by solenoids in the doors to operate the latches. In order to install the solenoids, some access openings needed to be cut in the inside panel of each door. The solenoid actuates the door latch by using a flexible steel cable, and since it couldn’t be put in a straight line with the latch, a pulley needed to be used between it and the latch.
Once I decided on the location of the solenoid inside the door where it wouldn’t interfere with the window opening and closing, I picked an intermediate point between the solenoid and the latch to mount the cable pulley. Using a hole saw, the opening for the pulley was cut out. Similarly, the opening for the solenoid was marked and cut out. The pulley was attached to the inside door panel with a small bracket using flush mounted rivnuts and machine screws through the fiberglass.
The headlights for the Willys are stock repop parts for a ’41. A template was supplied to provide the proper cutout in the fiberglass. The headlight bucket mounts from inside the fender area with short through-bolts, and then the lens and bezel mount from the outside, sandwiching the fiberglass shell in between.
These units have been updated to include a halogen bulb and a separate turn signal bulb. The quality of these parts is mediocre at best. I don’t know if the original Willys parts, especially the bezel were made out of pot metal or not, but these are and the casting/finishing quality isn’t that great. If I ever find better units, I’ll replace them.
The lower radiator hose was made up of preformed silicone elbows and aluminum tubing. The elbow connected to the water pump inlet reduces in size from 2 inches down to 1 3/4 inches to match the radiator outlet, with a small section of aluminum tubing connecting the two.
The upper radiator hose assembly uses the same silicone hose elbows and aluminum tubing. At the thermostat housing mounted to the cylinder head, a spacer was used with two connections for temperature sending units, one for the EFI, and one for the water temperature gauge and electric fan controller. T-bolt type hose clamps will be used at each end of the assembly, and Gates Power Grip shrink-type clamps will be used for the connections at the aluminum tube between the elbows.
Since the Willys has a tilt-front and there are no fixed inner fenders, the hoses need to be either supported from the frame or the engine itself. I decided to make up a bracket for the hose separators so that the hoses would be supported from the right valve cover studs. Two strips were made from stainless flat stock and attached to the studs. The hose separators were in turn attached to the brackets. I decided to add an additional strip between the two brackets in order to stiffen up the assembly and prevent the brackets from swiveling on the studs. The last three photos show the completed hose separator clamps with mounting bracket, and finally the hoses installed. The top hose is the heater hose return line, the middle hose is the radiator vent line, and the bottom hose is the A/C line from the condenser/drier to the evaporator.
I wanted to hold the A/C and heater hoses in place using some hose separator clamps similar to the ones I used for the fuel lines. The trouble was that I needed a separator for three hoses, and each hose was a different diameter. Since no separators were commercially available, I decided to make my own. I started out with some 1/2” x 3/4” aluminum barstock cut into 6” long strips. The strips were welded together at the ends to hold them together during machining. The centerline of each hole was marked on the stock and the drilling was started. I was able to use a step drill for most of the machining. The largest hole was through-drilled, since it was the largest diameter of the step drill. The two smaller holes needed to be drilled halfway through each side. A straight carbide cutter mounted in the drill press was used to open up the two smaller holes to the correct diameter. The third photo shows the separator assembly after all holes were drilled.
In order to keep the separator halves clamped together and also to attach them to a bracket, holes were drilled and tapped between the hose openings. Once all of the drilling procedures were done, I was able to cut the ends off of the aluminum blanks where they were welded together. This gave me two hose clamp halves. I made up a total of two of these separators, and the last photo shows the completed separator clamps. Later on they will be finished to match the fuel line clamps.