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We wrote an article exposing a kit-car company called Streetbeasts.

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Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Journal > Cboy-Two's Journal

View Cboy-Two's profile Entries: 466
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11-18-2009 01:41 AM Interior - foaming panels
Photo # 1 - All of the panels are then removed for the next major step, covering them with fabric. But first I have some more prep work to do. The curved panels all need to have the back sides sanded down fairly smooth for gluing. This is how the backside looks as they came out of the car. The odd looking texture is the result of the drywall compound being pushed through the perforated fiberglass tape and then wrapping around the wire mesh. I use my air sander to take off this excess material and create a gluing surface.

Photo # 2 - Here’s a shot of the rear corner panel which shows the difficulty of the compound complex curve fairly well. This is just a very odd shaped piece. I’m sure an experience pro could lay in the foam in one piece but as a total novice, I opted to break the foam up into sections.

Photo # 3 - Next I need to clean up the edges of the curved panels and cut away much of the wire mesh surrounding each panel. The mesh needs to be removed in order to wrap the fabric around the edge of each panel and glue it on the back side. But I also need to leave some “ears” of mesh in place so that the panel can be held in place. I’m totally shooting in the dark here as to whether I’ve trimmed away too little or too much of the mesh.

Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #466]

11-18-2009 01:39 AM Interior - foaming panels
Here are some shots with all the flat panels and curved panels foamed.

Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #465]

11-18-2009 01:38 AM Interior - foaming panels
Photo # 1 - Next I pull out the template and transfer the outline to another piece of card stock smoothing the edge lines from tab to tab.

Photo # 2 - After cutting out this second pattern and doing a test fitting (and trimming if required), I trace the pattern on the foam and cut it out.

Photo # 3 - I then pop the foam in place and trim if required. I’m making these with a fairly tight fit and the butt joints at the top and bottom of each section must be as precise as possible to reduce the possibility of telegraphing the joint through to the fabric when it is glued on.

Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #464]

11-18-2009 01:36 AM Interior - foaming panels
Photo # 1 - With the flat panels now secured with the new snap studs, I next foam the rear corners. These pieces of foam must fit fairly precisely with the edges of the flat panels on each side. I don’t want any huge gaps showing after the fabric is in place. In addition, this is a compound complex curve (it bends in three directions) so I am doing this panel in sections rather than attempting to apply it one continuous piece.

Photo # 2 - To fit these foam pieces I first make a template using 8 ½ x 11 card stock. I cut the paper on each side into 8 fairly equal tabs. I then fold each tab up firmly against the abutting piece of foam.

Photo # 3 - I tape down all the tabs so they don’t move when I pull out the paper.

Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - foaming panels
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #463]

11-09-2009 01:24 AM Interior - snap stud tips
Two small tips I discovered for mounting panels with the snap stud system.

Photo # 1 - Because I will have to start each screw “blind” whenever I mount a panel, I decided to counter sink each screw hole in the body. The tip of the screw is pointed, which helps, but by counter sinking the hole you increase your “target” size for the blind search for the hole. If the screw tip hits anywhere within the countersunk area, the screw is guided home to the center hole. I used a 5/8" bit to make my countersinks. Obviously you don’t want to go too deep or you will greatly reduce or eliminate the bite area for the screw threads.

Photo # 2 - The second hint is to tap threads in each hole before actually installing the screw stud. Since I don’t have a tap for this size thread (I couldn’t even find one at my hardware store), I used a self tapping #10 sheet metal screw, like this one, to thread each hole. One must be very careful using screws for this purpose. They are fine for tapping sheet metal or thin stock, but they are not meant for tapping thick metal. So go very slowly, back the screw out often to remove the burr, and change screws every hole or two...they do stretch and weaken very quickly with this sort of use.

Photo # 3 - See, here’s some idiot who cranked too hard on a self tapping screw and broke it right off. Amazing that his car looks incredibly similar to mine. Who would have anticipated such a coincidence.

Interior - snap stud tips
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - snap stud tips
(click photo to enlarge)
Interior - snap stud tips
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #462]

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