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hotrodders.com: Project Journals: Cboy-Two's Journal
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View Cboy-Two's profile Entries: 643
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05-01-2007 08:02 PM body - door opening
With the front and rear door jambs now completed we will assemble them into a complete door opening. I first cut a bottom jamb piece and a top jamb piece to the correct length. I then position the front, top, rear, and bottom jamb pieces and clamp them together as shown in photo #1
Arrow A = Front Jamb with latch
Arrow B = Rear jamb with hinges
Arrow C = Bottom jamb piece
Arrow D = Top jamb piece

Photo #2 shows another view of the door opening pieces mocked up for welding.

Photo #3 is a close up shot of the bottom jamb piece tack welded in place. Before fully welding this piece I need to cut and notch the lower inset lip piece.


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  [Entry #573]

05-01-2007 08:13 PM body - door opening
Photo #1 shows the bottom inset lip piece cut to length and notched on each end so that it will provide a 1/2" inset when mounted.

Photo #2 shows the bottom inset lip piece mocked up on the bottom jamb.

Photo #3 shows the door opening assembly welded together and the 1x2 bottom support rib (rocker) being clamped up for welding to the door opening assembly.


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  [Entry #572]

05-01-2007 08:40 PM Making dies to bend square tubing #2
The next step is to begin cutting and bending the remainder of the skeleton pieces for the body. In order to facilitate the bending process I am attempting to build another die for my Harbor Freight pipe bender which will allow me to make 90 degree bends in 1x1 square tubing with approximately a 3" radius. This die would allow me to bend the cowl rib, the firewall rib and the major curves at the rear of the body without having to make dozens of cuts in the tubing and then rewelding it after making the bend (that is how I did it for the roadster build and it was a very time consuming process.)

As shown in entry 56 and 57 of this journal I already made a simple die for making long sweeping bends. I will begin the new die by fabricating the same basic structure as with the first die, three short pieces of 1x1 pipe welded together into something of a "Y" shape. The center base piece fits over the attachment point on the bender and the 2 side pieces act to hold the material I am bending in the proper position.

I next cut a one inch wide "slice" from a piece of 6" diameter steel well casing pipe. This pipe was given to me for the asking by my local steel supplier who had it in their junk basket.

Photo #1 shows where I have market off the 1" wide section I will cut from the pipe. I use my 4 1/2" angle grinder with cutting blade for this task.

Photo #2 shows the "slice" after being cut off.

Photo #3 shows the three pieces of 1x1 tubing welded together and the "slice" of pipe centered and welded to the three tubing pieces.


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  [Entry #571]

05-01-2007 09:04 PM Making dies to bend square tubing #2
Obviously this thin slice of 6" tubing will not withstand the pressure of bending so it must be reinforced. To do this I weld 4 pieces of 1x2 tubing at a right angle to the main "Y" section of the die and parallel with the slice of 6" pipe. I then weld these support pieces to the 6" pipe slice on the underside.

At the end of each 1x2 support piece I weld a 1x1 "leg" straight down. I can then weld the 6" tubing slice to these legs as well and thereby provide support to the slice at all points on the arc.

Photo #1 shows these support pieces welded to the sides of the 1" wide slice of pipe. The "A" arrows indicate 1x2 tubing supports and the "B" arrows indicate the 1x1 tubing "legs".

Photo #2. I then cut and bend a piece of 3/8" steel rod around the 6" tubing slice and weld it solidly at each end. The purpose of this rod is to indent the bottom side of the tubing during the bend so that it will not kink.

Photo #3 shows the new die mounted on the bender. Not very pretty but hopefully it will be strong enough.


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  [Entry #570]

05-01-2007 09:21 PM Making dies to bend square tubing #2
Photo #1 is another view of the die in the bender. Note that the upper rollers shown in the photos must also be fabricated so that the tubing is kept straight in the bender. The process of making these rollers was shown in entry 57 of this journal

Photo #2 shows the first bend using the new die. I went a little beyond 90 degrees just to make sure it would work. Note the indentation on the inside radius of the tubing.

Photo #3 shows that the top side of the bend also becomes indented during the bending process. This happens naturally as the metal is stretched and compressed.

Also be aware that when the tubing is bent it also wants to expand outward (bulges) on each side. This results in the tubing becoming very tightly wedged between the two sides of the die after the bend is completed. The tubing can be knocked out of the die with a hammer but it does take a bit of coaxing.

All in all I'm very happy with the resulting bend I got and the die is going to make portions of the body fabrication much much easier and quicker.


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  [Entry #569]

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