Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
hotrodders.com: Project Journals: Cboy-Two's Journal
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

View Cboy-Two's profile Entries: 643
Views: 377513
view from the beginning || now viewing most recent entries


Pages (129): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 [61] 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129

04-11-2008 08:25 PM Painting - Frame
Photos 1 & 2 - To prep the frame for painting I first spent a few hours grinding the welds I had missed previously and then wire brushing and scuffing all the frame sections to remove any surface rust which may have started since the frame was completed. This also removed the spray can primer I had used to temporarily protect some of the frame sections and it removes any of the coatings used on the metal by the manufacturer. I then suspended the frame using some eye hooks driven into the ceiling trusses. I blew the frame down with the air hose and then cleaned and vacuumed the shop to cut down a bit on the dust. After this I wiped down the frame with Kustom Shop wax and grease remover.

With the temperature about 32 outside and snowing, I cranked up the heat in the shop to 70* during the morning prior to painting and then cut off the Modine LP heater and turned on two electric oil filled heaters to maintain the temperature without any open flames. I then opened two windows to get cross ventilation and donned my new fresh air supply suit to mix up some Dupont Nason epoxy. I sprayed this primer with my Harbor Freight purple gun. These two shots are after the epoxy coat.


(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #343]

04-02-2008 08:59 PM Media blasting axles and rear end
Photo 1 - The finished rear end.

Photo 2 - Another view of the finished rear end. Blasting time was a little under 2 hours - with the majority of that time used to sweep up the overspray, screen out the debris, and refill the pot.

Photo 3 - The completed front axles. Blasting time - approximately an hour per axle. Again, most of that time is sweeping up and cleaning the media (I'm using a Black Beauty clone from Menards).



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #342]

04-02-2008 08:57 PM Media blasting axles and rear end
Photo 1 - Here's a "before" shot of one front axle.

Photo 2 - And a "before" shot of the rear end.

Photo 3 - Here's a side by side after finishing one of the front axles.



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #341]

04-02-2008 08:55 PM Media blasting axles and rear end
To de-rust the front axles and rear end I bought this pressure pot unit (a Clarke) to replace my tired, old siphon bucket blaster (Sears). I also have a blasting cabinet but the axles and rear end are far to large to fit in it. The new Clarke worked so well that after I finished the axles, I tore the siphon feed system out of my blasting cabinet and replaced it with this Clark setup. It has cut my blasting times by more than half.

Photo 1 - The new Clarke pressure blaster. This is the 10 gal. model and was about $120 at Fleet Farm. It comes with a dead man trigger.

Photo 2 - The old Sears siphon feed. If you're making a blaster purchase - spend the extra few bucks and get a pressure pot blaster. MUCH better.



(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #340]

03-26-2008 07:23 PM Blowing things up
Photo 1 - To start stripping the car down to scratch, I first pulled the engine and transmission. Here's the 302 on the cherry picker.

Photo 2 - I do my body lifts alone so it requires a bit of "apparatus" to get the job done. The lifting frame shown in this shot consists of an upper beam made of three 2x8s screwed together and the posts are each made of 3 2x6's screwed together. The lift frame is secured to the trusses at the ceiling so it can not move forward, backward or to the side. The entire frame can be taken down and disassembled in about an hour. The body is lifted and then I roll the chassis out from under it.

Also note in this picture that the body is set on 4 pedestal type tool stands. I found these stands on sale for $15 apiece and they are perfect for holding the body in a high position so I can get underneath to finish off a few welds and then to do the prep and paint on the under side of the body. The nice thing about the tool pedestals is they break down for easy storage AND I have them in the event I might need to mount up a bench grinder or other tool in the future.

Note that I am also leaving the lift straps all in place while I work under the body as a redundant safety measure.

Photo 3 - And the chassis now stripped of the body and ready to be disassembled.


(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #339]

Pages (129): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 [61] 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2013, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.