Hot Rod Photo Journal - Cboy-Two's Journal

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12-20-2007 08:10 AM

Drive shaft tunnel

Photo # 1 - In a prior entry I showed the fabrication of the removable transmission tunnel. Now I need to fabricate the removable drive shaft portion of the tunned and get the entire drive line enclosed. I begin by forming a small, sheet metal box (arrow A) which fits inside and under the rear portion of the transmission tunnel. This is designed so the transmission tunnel can be removed without requiring removal of the drive shaft tunnel. The top of the tunnel (arrow B) is then cut, curved and tack welded to the "box".

Photo # 2 - The top portion of the tunnel is temporarily tack welded at the rear to hold it in place so I can remove the seat belt attachment bracket (arrow A).

Photo # 3 - The sides of the tunnel are then measured, cut and welded in place along with a mounting strip (arrow) which runs around the perimeter of the tunnel and is screwed to the floor structure to allow for easy removal.

(click photo to enlarge)

[Entry #278]

12-16-2007 07:28 PM

Interior Coating

Photo # 1 - the sheet metal inside the cockpit has some surface rust and rust/scale around the welds that I want to eliminate.

Photo # 2 - I am using a brush on rust "converter" which stops the rusting process and turns existing rust into a hard, paintable surface. I used the Plasti-kote brand but there are a number of similar rust converter products on the market which are no doubt as good. The stuff goes on gray, turns green when applied and then turns black as the conversion process completes.

Photo # 3 - The sections on the right show how the coating looks when the process is finished. Later I will be spraying epoxy primer over the entire interior and exterior of the car.

(click photo to enlarge)

[Entry #277]

12-16-2007 07:26 PM

Dash

And a couple views of the back side of the dash showing the installed instruments.

(click photo to enlarge)

[Entry #276]

12-16-2007 07:24 PM

Dash

Photo # 1 - Here is roughly how the speedo will look. Note on the upper right of the opening that you can see the cut edge of the plastic spacer because of the viewing angle. The spacer will later be painted satin black (as will the bezels, the tach mount, and the edge of the dash sheet metal) so that it will not be nearly so noticeable.

Photo # 2 - And here is how the completed gauge cluster looks after painting and installing all of the parts - including the indicator lights. The panel to the right of the gauges is the heater & A/C control. The open hole is for the ignition. The dash itself will be painted the color of the car.

Photo # 3 - a little closer view of the instrument cluster.

(click photo to enlarge)

[Entry #275]

12-16-2007 07:22 PM

Dash

Photo # 1 - The speedo mounting presents a different challenge. The needle of the speedo extends above the face so that the gauge can not simply be screwed to the lens. I first must make a spacer from 1/4" plastic. The center of the spacer is cut out with a 4" hole saw. Note in this picture that matching mounting holes have been drilled in the speedo surround and the spacer.

Photo # 2 - Here's the spacer shown in position on the lens.

Photo # 3 - Here the speedo and spacer have been screwed in position on the back side of the lens.

(click photo to enlarge)

[Entry #274]

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