Removing the original oil filter bypass valve is not to difficult. It is necessary to remove it if you want to use a spin on filter. Most remove the oil sending unit and then insert a rod and drive the old valve out. The rear main cap must be removed in order to do this.
Instead of driving the valve out I broke off the cross bar that holds the check ball in and then used a 3/8 fine thread tap and threaded the old valve. From there I stacked a bunch of washers on bolt and threaded it into the valve and pulled it right out.
Hot Heads sells the new valve which is the purple piece in the picture.
Last weekend I worked on the heads. Today I dug out the block and crankshaft. Everything was cleaned and all machine work was done a few years ago. The engine is a 1957, 392 from a Chrysler Imperial. What a boat anchor but it looks really cool and I'm told they run very well.
The engine was in sad shape probably the worst one I've ever brought home. It's been bored .060", line bored, sleeved, welded, spray welded, decked, balanced, x-rayed, pressure tested, machine honed and Heli coiled here and there. All in all it was a piece of junk but it was complete and I only paid $150.00 for it. I've got a lot invested now but I figured even a good engine would have needed machine work.
The engine was completely ceased up because the right cylinder bank pistons were rust frozen solid in the bore. It took me most of a weekend to get it all apart. When I took all the stuff to the machine shop the guy's in the shop just stood there and laughed saying that I should just find another engine. The weird part was the crank. Once we cleaned it and put it in a holding fixture it measured out perfectly. There was virtually no wear at all. It was perfect in everyway and the balance was dead on and needed only a one gram (weight of a dollar bill) adjustment for perfection.
Right now I'm double checking everything one more time before I start assembly. It will take me forever to put it together. I measure everything twice and I will clean it all until it shines. lol
I went over the heads today. I've had them oiled and wrapped up in plastic for awhile. They still sprouted a little rust so I detailed them today. They have new guides, retainers, keepers, seats, springs, stainless valves and a few heli coils here and there. These things are huge. Trying to decide which valve covers to use. Since my theme is late 60's early 70's drag style... I'm leaning towards the Donovan style fins.
Today I finished the second set of header flanges. Since I used the 392 exhaust manifold gasket as a pattern I wanted to make sure the flanges fit the heads. I just used a transfer punch and the gasket to mark the bolt holes. Plenty of room for error so I dragged the heads out of the corner to check the fit and much to my surprise the home made flanges fit perfectly.
I have not been working on the Plymouth to much this winter. I plan to get back at it in a month or two. I've really just been getting some odd and end things together so that when I start the engine build it will go smoothly. I have made a little progress on the header flanges. I actually have two sets now. Fortunately I have a buddy that has access to a half million $ computer laser milling machine. It made easy work to produce the 7/16" ss flanges.
Here are a few pictures of the latest set of flanges with the Hemi D-port and a transition nipple. The primaries are going to be 2". Can't make the headers until the engine is in.