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View 1930u's profile Entries: 219
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01-25-2009 03:25 PM Finally some body filler on the car
Well the body guy and I are in it now for 26 hours and finally yesterday we got to the point where we could start using some structural filler. I'm using a product called Z-Glass.

Geez this is a lot of work.



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  [Entry #39]

01-04-2009 07:08 PM Swing Pedals and right angle Master Cyl
Since I decided to bring in a professional to do the mud work...I have moved on to other areas. I roughed in the pedal mounts last year and now I'm doing the final work. When I'm done with the pedals and dash frame work I plan to install a hinged fuse panel mount just to the left of where the steering column will mount. I'm going to use the original dash panel and a mixture of Plymouth and Hudson gauges and bezels.

Here's a few pedal pics.





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  [Entry #38]

12-13-2008 06:00 PM What a difference a year makes
The sand blasting pic was taken last year right around Christmas. I have tried to work a little every weekend but I was sick back in May and June and had to back off for a while. All in all I'm pleased with the progress. Took the other shots this morning as I was moving it from a cold spot to warmer location for a day of weld grinding.

#1

For now I'm happy and I can't wait to see this think in paint some day. I am a very motivated guy and the good part about the metal work is if you do it yourself it's not expensive. Just a lot of labor. I have used almost three 4X8 sheets of metal on this thing.

I'm down to finish grinding, adjusting this panel and that panel and I still run into a pinhole here and there.

I am almost ashamed to say that I am thinking about having a mud slinger do the final fit and skim coat, etc. It would save me a lot of time and I'm sure they would do a better job than me. Still only thinking about it at this point...I will decide after I see her with all the grinding done.

#2

The mud slinger idea is sounding better and better to me. The only thing I've ever done before the metal work on this car is sheet metal parts replacement and fiberglass on Corvettes. I can block sand and paint... that's about it. I am positive a professional body guy will do a much better job than me.

Here's the deal...I met a guy who does all the mud work for a fast paced Car Star body shop. He stopped out last summer and looked at the car. He didn't laugh to much at my fab work lol. I really don't want the car to leave my shop and he agreed to work on it at my place on the weekends and evenings. I provide the resource materials of preference and turn him loose.

We also agreed to set a fixed hourly rate. We plan to set aside two days for him to start work. After those two days we stop to evaluate and make a decision for him to move on or not. Either way I pay him for his time.

He said he could work wonders in 80 to 150 hours. I will decide soon.

#3

Just an update...I'm now at the point where my limited metal working skills are producing little to know improvement. In light of that the mud slinger is coming back out sometime over the next few days to take another look at the coupe. If I can come to terms with him on the money, I plan to turn him loose to do finish metal/mud work.

#4

Well my mud slinger guy came back out today and reviewed my raw metal work. We both agreed the area that needs the most attention is the rumble lid and tail panel, so thats where we start our test. He is going to work for $25 per hour and we set a limit for now of 20 hours to see how much he can get done. After that if we're both happy he will quote any remaining work as a lump some. He really seems to know what hes doing. I stopped by the body shop where he works last week and he was doing a rear clip job on some kind late model luxury car...Lexus or Infinity. It was a real mess but he was moving around it at a good pace.

He recommended a structural type filler for all weld areas and 3M lite weight or Rage Gold for the secondary skimming. He went around the car gauging it with a straight edge and radius gauge showing me where you could see day light under the edge. After that he said for the most part that I had done a pretty good job on the metal work. He is also going to do all the work in my shop so I will be able to work on other areas of the car too.

Here's the material list he recommended-

Dura-Glass filler
Rage Gold or 3M light weight filler
#36 or #40 board file paper
#80 board file paper
#80 DA paper

We will be starting the work next Friday. He is also going to let me help out through the process.

I have now moved inside the car to permanently hang my swing pedals master cylinders for clutch and brakes and do some custom work on the stock dash.

My head is really spinning about all this but if I can get the body finished up for let's say $1000 or less I will be a very happy camper!






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  [Entry #37]

12-10-2008 07:46 PM Windshield Stand Off Supports
Here's a couple shots of the windshield supports. I had to modify the original Plymouth mounts to make them work. I don't know what kind of car their they're from. The windshield works great now.


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  [Entry #36]

11-30-2008 07:07 AM Windshield Frame and Front Porch
I finally got the windshield frame and hinge mounted to the Plymouth. I couldn't resist putting the front porch on too. This is a windshield frame I bought at Hersey for $25.00. It was in great shape. It works and fit great now. I was even able to save the original piano hinge. I hated to cut the frame up but I didn't know what it fit and I was out of luck finding one for the Plymouth. As tall as it was I'm figuring it was from a truck or some huge old car. It looks like I will able use the windshield props too. I just have to modify the original Plymouth mount and threaded nut that locks the windshield in position. The props are nickel and also in great shape. The right one is lying on the top of the cowl.




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  [Entry #35]

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