Last weeks episode left our hero pinned on the horns of a dilemma: Leave the newly fabbed shifter interfering with the speedo drive, and run it sans speedo, or tear the shifter out and completely re-do it?
After a couple of days of thinking about this at work (and consequently not thinking about work), our resourceful (and unwilling to throw out something he'd spent the better part of two days building) hot rodder simply shorteded the offending shifter lever, re-adjusted the linkage, and saved the day.
Not wanting to have the job look totally homebuilt or cobbled up, he quickly whittled a detent plate from a scrap of stainless scrap left over the gas tank strap project. This and an old "Titleist" golf ball knob complete the newly re-designed, and more properly ratio'd shifter. This not only finishes the shift build, but uses up some scraps laying around the shop in true 'MacGuiver' fashion. It moves forward to engage the trans, in the manner of an airplane throttle.
Tune in for this weeks special Christmas edition of "The Fordillac's Revenge", or, "Santa stumbles over the jack handle and breaks a garage door glass".
I spent about 10-12 hours the last two days making, I think, a really neat shifter out of the original clutch pedal for the '36. First thing this morning I went out and adjusted the linkage, did a little fine tuning and got it working like silk. Then, and only then, did I notice that the shift arm passes directly in front of the speedo drive on the trans case. Bloody Hell.
So now, what to do? I really like the shifter. It works, it looks functional, and I made it. Do I re-engineer the entire thing, or just slap the "Tom Tom" on the dash when driving it? Maybe just walking away for a couple of days will bring the answer...
It took only about 20 minutes, after walking away from the ill fitting rear fender for a day, to get it to set properly over the rear tire. Ended up heating and bending the forward strut a couple of degrees, sliding the main mounting bracket inwards a quarter of an inch, and VIOLA, fits!
Now, I just have to duplicate this entire process on the left rear. Hopefully, the fourth one will be the charm...
Like front fenders, it took ALL DAY to make the brackets for the right rear fender. Now that it's all done, I think it sets about half an inch too high off the tire, and one of the mounting bolts hits the body when the suspension is jounced. Crap.
I think I can take care of both issues by simply lowering the main mount, which bolts to the rear axles lower control arm mount. That will have to wait till Saturday. I know I can get things fit properly, and a couple of days to think about it can't hurt.
OK, the rear ones aren't bolted to anything, and only one is widened, but it has potential! Today I widened the right rear fender, originally the spare tire cover for a '37 Buick sidemount. I split the fender down the middle with a brown blade in a cutoff tool, and welded in a 2" strip of 18 ga. Easier said than done...It was kind of tricky to get the halves clamped to the center strip, and keep the correct profile on each one, but I managed.
Making brackets will be interesting too, as there is very little room between the '36 body shell and the tire. I had to trim about 3/4" off the front inside edge of the fender, and it looks like the bracket will have to mount to the rear, or bottom 1/2 of the fender to clear. I'll make the brackets out of 1/4"x1" cold roll, instead of the hex bar stock the fronts are made from.
I also fitted the right side front filler panel, originally the inner fender, to the hood better, and made the rounded corner for the crappy, but heavily sectioned repop grill shell. It looks MUCH better now.
The roll bar pattern is at a local fabricators shop to be made from 1 3/4 DOM tubing. It's now going to be a 4 point bar, rather than a 6 point cage, owing to the fact that with foward bars, there is no way I can get out of the car with the top up. So, no faster than ll.50's...