Got some great advice this morning on my hinge dilemma, I think it'll all work out fine. Got the passenger door corners rounded, lower hinge opening cut out, and now, after a trip to the hardware store for some all thread and 5/16 bolts to use for hinge pins, I'm gonna hang it.
I've posted a couple of more photos to show the, I think, really cool looking filler panels below the hood. I'm proud of this idea, which utilized the '36's original inner fender panels, and hand formed piece on the drivers side which is compound curved, with hand hammered, curved louvers to match the original. Had to do this to clear the drag link.
A buddy gave me some air springs which I'm going to mount on the front end. I was telling him that the springs have settled a little with the car all assembled, and now I have only about 3/4" travel before the axle bottoms on the frame. I don't want to notch the frame, as it's only 2x3 to begin with, and I really didn't want to raise the ride height much, because it looks killer. The bags and small compresser and air tank will let me raise and lower the front end as I need, without really "changing" anything. I wasn't really enthused about the idea at first, as they don't fit the period look, but, they will make it driveable.
A couple of more photos. The one with me standing by the car should illustrate how low it is. I'm 5'4", and the car is at it's ride height, actually a couple of inches higher in the rear as it's on jackstands to work on the wheel wells. I love it. The interior, as seen from the rear in one of these photos, pretty well sums up how quickly channeling and sectioning a '36 Ford eats up interior room. And, the top isn't up.
Working on the floor and wheel wells. My buddy John lent me his shrinker/stretcher, beadroller and elec. shears, making the job MUCH easier and better. I think the results speak for themselves. After 8 hours of work, my project looks like a real car now!
More photos to illustrate how the MG windshield posts have been fitted to the '36 cowl, and the Sebring top in the '36 tub body. The top mounts need to moved forward about an inch to be able to stack flat, but there's plenty of room.
You might notice how high the engine has to set relative to the body. The ground scraping stance required this for even marginal oilpan clearance. The hood won't fit over the aircleaner with the lid on, so the plan is to use a thing foam ring on top of the element, and let the underside of the hood be the top. That also means I'll save about 500 bucks on an Edelbrock intake and carb, because that's about 2" taller than the stock low profile Cad intake. It should still pull the car OK...