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Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Journal > Bob Heine's Journal

View Bob Heine's profile Entries: 23
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11-07-2009 04:27 AM The Pipes are Back
The pipes came back from Jet-Hot so the exhaust system can be installed. The pipes look pretty good and the rest of the system fit with no problems.

The Pipes are Back
(click photo to enlarge)
The Pipes are Back
(click photo to enlarge)
The Pipes are Back
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #23]

11-07-2009 04:20 AM A Little Brake Work
While waiting for the pipes to arrive, I did some work on the brakes. Two of the original lines had badly mangled fittings. Initially thought about buying stainless tubing and making up my own lines. Figured I’d make a mess so I ordered a complete set of stainless lines from Inline Tube. The lines arrived and were really amazing. All the fittings were covered and all the lines that had the armor spiral on them originally had the armor on the new ones. As I started the install process, I realized I couldn’t have come close to the quality of Inline Tube’s product.

The brake line replacement reminded me why people do the frame-off thing. The line clamps were mounted to the frame before the body was put in place. One was barely visible and had to be loosened (and tightened) by feel rather than sight. The other was too tight to break free with just the tips of an open end so I ground down one of my quarter inch throwaway sockets so it fit the tight space using a breaker bar.

A Little Brake Work
(click photo to enlarge)
A Little Brake Work
(click photo to enlarge)
A Little Brake Work
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #22]

10-24-2009 03:19 AM Spending time on top
After spending a fair amount of time polishing the exterior of the intake manifold, I thought I might spend a little time on the runners. The ports didn’t match the gasket real well when I started but using some abrasive rolls in the die grinder, I was able to relieve the passages to match the lines scribed in magic marker. The new manifold passages are closer to the gasket shape and location, which is a good match to the passages on the cylinder heads.

The friend who did the machine work on my engine back in the early 80s gave me an aluminum Edelbrock Streetmaster 2.0 manifold (it was off a work truck). At the time I thought it was going to be an improvement over the stock low-rise cast iron manifold and it would fit under the stock hood. This manifold was designed to produce low-end torque and to improve gas mileage, which was an issue back in the late 70s just like it is now. When I pulled the old intake off, I discovered a clue to the wimpy performance of this big block. Talk about mismatched runners. The oil splashguard must have been designed to keep the plenum cool (along with the heat passage blocking plates. Not sure if cool gas offsets the loss of a quarter of the runner cross-section.

The new Summit manifold on the left is more than 2 inches higher than the old Edelbrock. That’s just about how much extra height the L-88 hood gives me so it shouldn’t be too much of a clearance problem (yeah, right).

Spending time on top
(click photo to enlarge)
Spending time on top
(click photo to enlarge)
Spending time on top
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #21]

10-24-2009 03:14 AM Outback Stuff
Finished painting the half-shafts and driveshaft and re-installed them. The rear end is back together and I’ll finish it up by re-torqueing all the bolts. Before I forget and burn up the rear end, it’s time to add the gear lube and positraction additive. In a real shop this is a simple pump it in from the tank job. In my garage it’s a pour it in from a bottle job. In the past I managed to pour half the gear oil on the floor. Twenty-five years ago a quart of positraction gear oil was a buck or two so spillage was no big deal. Now it’s $36 for two quarts of gear oil and four ounces of positraction additive so I’m going to try to keep it all in the differential this time.

Had a leftover piece of new half-inch copper tubing from the last plumbing repair, a leftover piece of heater hose from the 87 Corvette and a clean funnel. Didn’t actually measure or plan it but the rigid copper and rubber hose were the perfect length. Even the funnel worked just right, hanging up on the fender lip. After pouring all three bottles in, I was able to leave the setup in place and drain the gear oil down to the last drop.

Because I’m cleaning and painting a lot of parts under the car, my wife has questioned my sanity several times. I explained that lots of the parts are rusted but otherwise in good shape. If I just let them continue to rust, they eventually will have to be replaced. To prove my point, I showed her this little collection of mounting brackets and bolts for the rear bumper and the front and rear anti-roll bars. I spent a few minutes looking up the prices of the brackets and bolts and without shipping and handling it totaled $830. A little time with the bead blaster and a coat of paint and these parts should last a long time.

Outback Stuff
(click photo to enlarge)
Outback Stuff
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #20]

10-11-2009 03:46 PM Pipe Re-visit
The header adapter pipe design went back to the drawing board. My first design had two flaws. First flaw was that the driver side pipe touched the fiberglass floorboard. Probably answers the question “Why is that Corvette on fire?” Second flaw was the proximity to the transmission. My original simple pie cuts brought the pipes on both sides so close to the transmission that I’d need two extra trans coolers to compensate.

My solution is to abandon the stainless plumbing and use plain steel. Ordered a pair of 3-inch to 2.5-inch reducer and flange, two 2.5-inch mandrel u-bends and an oxygen sensor bung and plug. I cut and tacked five pieces of pipe for the driver side and three pieces for the passenger side. Bends are all pretty smooth and the oxygen bung faces the transmission.

Once I finish plugging the pinholes in my welding, I’ll send the pipes to Jet-Hot to be coated inside and out with the same coating as the headers. That gives me the benefit of rust-resistance comparable to the stainless and adds the benefit of reduced heat around the floorboard and transmission area. I may attach some heat barrier material under aluminum flashing to the floorboards next to the headers if there is still a heat problem.

Pipe Re-visit
(click photo to enlarge)
Pipe Re-visit
(click photo to enlarge)
Pipe Re-visit
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  [Entry #19]

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