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hotrodders.com: Project Journals: 38 special's Journal
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03-21-2004 01:37 PM Running boards (part DUEX)
After cutting out the pattern I had made. ( I used a sabre saw with a metal cutting blade and hand metal (cutting shears) I laid the metal on top of the running board that was still in one piece and clamped it to the running board. I used a rubber mallet and started to beat the metal around the running board from top to bottom. Then I did the same to the other side. I made some relief cuts and then did the ends. I thee welded all the joints I had mande back together. Later I made supports and welded them in to set under the running boards. This will sit on top the frame bracket that stick out from the car frame. The last pic shows the old and the newly made running boards. I set the new boards in place temporarily on the car to see how well they fit. Next I'll smooth out all the bumpy spots in the metal and fill in the low spots and get ready for priming and painting.


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  [Entry #4]

03-21-2004 01:28 PM Handmade Running Boards
This first photo is what my running boards looked like. One is barely holding together anf the other is in three pieces. I bought some 20 gauge 4 by 8 ft. sheets of steel and laid my running boards over the top of my steel. I laid them on upside down. I figured it would be easier seeing how I would have the flat side of the running board next to the flat steel. I then traced around the boards with a magic marker. I then retraced around them making the mark an extra 1 and a half to two inches bigger all the way around. This would give me enough extra metal to beat around to make the sides of the runing boards. Where the curved part was I made relief cuts and bent them to fit thee curve and then welded them back together.


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  [Entry #3]

03-18-2004 08:08 PM rear roll pan 2
Here's a photo of the center section in but not the side panel.


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  [Entry #2]

03-18-2004 08:05 PM Rear Roll Pan
There is probably another more correct term for it but I'm calling it a rear roll pan for this article. The rear section under my 38 DeSoto trunk was partially eaten away with rust. What was left was dented and very thin. The photos may not show this but it was really bad. I began by cutting off most of the reamaining 8 inches across the entire back section. I left just enough for a lap weld. I made the repair panels in three parts not including under supports for the metal. After cutting off the old metal I measured and cut out the center section of steel to be used. It was very difficult section to make. An English wheel would have come in very handy. It was curved verticle to the body as well as horizontal. Before welding it into place I made an "L" shaped bracket to fit both ends . This was to give the panel strength and help it keep it''s shape. The bottom I beat about an inch of metal over into a 45 degree angle and use a metal shrinker to get the curvature of the car shaped into the panel. I started to weld it in place at one end and then tacked it in the middle and then the far end. I went back in and welded all the spaces in between a little at a time so the heat would not warp the panel. I found that the metal wanted to buckle as I had not gotten enough curvature to correctly match teh body perfectly. So I cut the metal in a very slight "V" shape in 2 spots. One on either side. It didn't help as much as I would've like but it did help.
I then cut the two side pieces to match the body. I made the same "L" shaped bracket for strength on them also. Sorry I don't have a photo of what they look like. But You can see what they look like from the outside rear of car in photo. I then welded them into place. After grinding down the welds this is what it looks like. I cut off 8 inches and added 16 inches of new metal. It may not be professional but it's not bad for a first timer.


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  [Entry #1]



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