Drilled the holes and bolted in the sway bar. Had to go through a rig-a-morole with clamps and pry bar to get bar on A-frames. Emergency brake cable hooked up. Remembered to adjust brake pads as I rebuilt brakes with new pads and left the adjustments to lowest position. Works good, pull handle up and rear wheels lock up. The one pic has the original brake fork with a swivel I made to hook up with the emer brake foot unit I pulled out of the 98 explorer. I was going to use the cable that went through the body. The cable cover was to short and the connection to to hand brake came out to flaky. When I pulled the rear end out of the 98 Explorer I took off the emer bracket that was a bolt on to the frame and all the cables and connections. All this stuff worked okey for this install for the rear end. I was bumping around in one of my suppliers mags for something else and came across a Lokar kit that did the job for the hand brake lever. It had a long enough cable plus a real nice bracket for mounting on the frame. Job done
Got a new tool for the shop, a aluminum Racing Jack. It is sooooo nice to lift without having to crawl.
Put the sway bar in place with clamps for placement of holes to be drilled. Still working on floor tyranny cover and others. Also, working on emergency brake cables. Using the original hand lever and cables from ford explorer. One the first try the cables actually connected, but after
tabs are welded to frame for anchor points the cables will probably have to be cut. work in progress....
Doors look ok after holes filled sanded and primered. Will work on lower rust problem after I do a couple of days or more of welding practice. Had to move steering wheel over one and a quarter inch to the left. When you have a bench seat in a truck doesnt matter all that much but a bucket now a different animal. Where I want the seats to be the wheel wasnt. Remove column again for the direction indicator lever fell out. Screw came out. Did figure out the no start switch. The two elec tabs on the right short when in park and nuetral. The other two only in reverse, for bach-up lights. The floor plate has a new hole for the column. Raised it up two inches. So now the steering wheel and shift lever not so close to dash. Also makes for a better position to a sitting driver. All this back and forth, up and down, in and out wears a fella out..
I have screw holes in the doors from rear view mirrors. They put on those big retangular crome jobs that look like big ears on dumbo. The things got rusty and had to come off. I got the idea of turning a screw in the holes and then grinding it off, with a hit from the MIG. I did two and it came out ok, I think??? The lower door hindge hole is longated because the pin was attempted removal by drill bit. Didnot work. Im going to put a quarter inch copper tube and have the welder guy fill it up.