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07-19-2014 12:23 PM Got it moving under its own power
Don't have any new pix but so far trans has worked pretty well. Had a hanging tv valve issue I think as it was trying to do second gear starts. So we disconnected tv able at throttle body and gave it several(ok, many) sharp pulls to try to clear any debris that might have made its way there and caused the valve to stick. Seems to have worked so far. I do have a torrential leak. Not right a away, but as the car sits after a drive and the converter drains back to the pan, It has a nasty leak somewhere. I haven't gotten to the bottom yet but will as I don't want a giant trans fluid stain where I park the car.

Pressures we got.

It has seen more than a few miles, and a lot of them were hard street and track outings. It has been a great ride.

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  [Entry #11]

05-08-2014 09:33 PM put it in the car

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Well, we are making more progress on our trans overhaul. I read on more than one occasion that proper pressure and pressure rise with tv cable activation is critical for trans life. I want it to live so we bought a gauge setup pictures above so we could monitor the pressures.

We got the trans stabbed in. As the trans we took out was a 700r4 we removed the adapter plate, adapter on the crossmember and a different drive shaft. I got a used stock drive shaft and some new ujoints. Got all that put together and filled it with fluid. As we had it up on the stands we ran it through the gears and did some testing with the gauge setup. I was pleased with the results.

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We took it for a test run but couldn't get a good 1-2 shift as it was hanging until about 35mph. We dropped the pan and governor and put it back to stock. This produced silk like shifts at light throttle and tire punishing shifts with additional pedal . I was advised on another forum that if we needed more rpm/speed for the 1-2 we could remove the light spring on the large weight. Might try that but am quite pleased as it is.
We also went through the gears and were running around 35-40mph, going to full throttle we got a down shift to first. This is very cool.

  [Entry #10]

11-10-2013 11:31 AM Valve Body
We assembled the pump using hardened rings and a stiffer slide spring, but stayed with the stock seven vane setup. Once we had it together we put it in with out the rubber but used the gasket and measured the input clearance. This involved a dial indicator and associated fixture. Ended up needing a thicker washer. This was ordered and installed to get the input clearance in spec.

Then we moved on to the valve Body. We are using the AA unit that came wiht the core. We pulled it apart and cleaned the pieces. We worked on the tv valve by swapping in some different, stiffer springs I picked up at my local hardware. I also swapped in a 700r4 retrun spring into the lie bias valve, and used the line bias spring in the vb accumulator bore. This stiffens each of these areas.

TV valve

1-2 Accumulator

  [Entry #9]

09-14-2013 11:43 AM Some more assembly
We were able to get the lower section play down to an acceptable level by using different thrust washers and a thicker selective washer. We soaked the low/rev clutches and installed them into the case. We put the low'rev piston in using the low/rev tool and then the bevel split ring to secure it. As stated in the manual the bevel faces the front of the trans. Then the sun shell, planetary and the bearing, selective and ring to secure it to the shaft. Use some trans jell to seure the thrust washer to the back of the sun shell.

This takes us to to another selective thrust piece. Manual states to start with the #10. I ended up tearing it back down twice first time with the #13 and then with the #15 to get the clearance down. Make sure the out put is tight up and the rest installed to get a good measurement. This includes getting the direct and forward drums in and seated correctly. And the center support in there. And pulling it back out if the clearance isn't right. I used the depth setup on a dial caliper to measure.

After you get that where you want it you can put the over drive piston and clutches in. I am using the stock four steel and two clutch arrangement, but there is a mod to cut the piston down .070-.080 to fit another clutch in between the middle steels to theoretically add 50% more capacity to the over drive setup.

then comes the pump. There is a selective washer on the back of the stator support that you can use trans jell to keep it in place when installing. This brings me to where I am. I need to measure the clearance on the input.

  [Entry #8]

07-06-2013 08:00 AM the over run clutch and front planetary

We have too much clearance on the lower unit. I will order some new thrust washers and see if we can take the slack up. I have read that these were built quite loose from the factory. This is over .040 so I'm sure it can be tightened up.

These are the "scarf" cut rings. We will be installing solid Teflon pieces. from my reading the solid seals better and with the big cut in the "scarf" cut I can see why. The kit came wth the cut pieces so I ordered a bag of the solid as I read that they are hard to install. I figured I'd hurt some but it wasn't near as difficult as described. The ones I put on the input shaft I soaked in some very hot water as I read that this helps them stretch. The set I put on the forward drum I just put them on with no prep. I didnt really see the benefit of the hot water. If you do it and have trouble maybe the hot water would help. Your call.

Bag of new solid rings.

dish of hot water I warmed up in microwave and brought to garage. Wife not too keen on me doing this ring install in her kitchen. I don't let her cook in my garage so I moved my activity back out there.

new rings on shaft.

sizing tool made from some more of the plastic liter drink bottle and some hose clamps. first work the rings into the grooves with your fingers. Then with the plastic get the rings situated and clamp them down with the hose clamps. I like that the plastic is clear as it allowed me to see we didn't pinch the rings and that they are situated into there respective grooves. Let them sit. I went back and checked on them and repostitioned the clamps to get the rings uniform. After this I was able to get the shaft into the stator support where the rings(two of them) with live.

This part is not for the faint of heart. To replace the bearing down in the planetary one must remove the planet gears and the associated pieces. The snap ring comes off then the real "fun" begins as there are little rollers like a universal joint that the planet gears ride on around the pinion shafts. when you pull the pinion shaft and slide the planet gear out keep track of the shims as therse clearance the gears to the housing and are important to put back where they came from. also those rollers come out so have a clean place to catch them.

I made a couple of scratch marks with a screwdriver on the housing next to the pinion hole to keep track of where the setups came from so I could put them back the same as they came apart.

you can see the rollers in the gear around the shaft. I didn't take pix as my hands were covered in transgel getting these back into the housing. Don't forget the new bearing as that is why we took it apart to begin with.

the old ones didnt look bad but I bought new so we will put those in.

over run clutches. We are using borg warner regular brown. These arent 'shifting' clutches so we don't need special frictions here.

Soaking the overrun clutches

two of the snap ring pliers I used.

The over run housing with sun gear on. I put new seals in it but I guess I didn't take any pix.

Takes some finagling to get this back together as a lot of gear teeth must mesh up.

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  [Entry #7]

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