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View bullheimer's profile Entries: 35
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06-27-2006 03:04 PM car with tt2's, (stockers going back on)
had to put my tempests wheels on it cause stock orange just wasnt working for me. the car looks so good, it's a shame i have to sell it


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  [Entry #35]

08-09-2005 11:03 PM READ ALL ABOUT THE WHOLE REBUILD HERE!
CAR NOW HAS AMERICAN RACING TORQUE THRUST 2 17X8'S ALL AROUND AND FRONT SPOILER. this car currenly has 825 miles on the engine. TT2's are coming off and original wheels going back on. they are painted orange. if there isn't a picture of it here in the journal then the wheels, painted gold, are in the photo album of bullheimer. click on photo albums above to see. plus there are alot more pictures of the interior resto.
sent my tach to www.dandmrestorations to repaint and check my tach a year ago. it didnt work. notice the entry below and the empty hole for the ground. i have installed a screw and nut and will put a nut over the circuit board. gee, it started working all of a sudden doesnt look like there ever was a screw there, but that's besides the point. i have the whole U-14 cluster back in and everything is working perfectly
i just put my tempest's wheels on my 'maro. photos above. god it's shtt hot! might have to keep it. i just put the new black front spoiler on as well. see above pics as well. also put in the new temp sending unit so all guages work. want to mention somethng about the floor pan.the pin holes were filled with nylon webbing covered/filled with all-steel filler after rust=mort. wish i took better pics.
i also changed the plug wires it



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  [Entry #34]

07-29-2005 09:20 AM installing U-14 instrument cluster
converting to the full instrument cluster option U-14 from the speedo/giant gas guage cluster. needs to have an extra wire or two to run the small clock and the "voltmeter".

the problem here is that i discovered my U-14 does NOT have a voltmeter, which would be wired as shown, but in FACT has a frikken AMMETER!! so i got a voltmeter off ebay. spozed to be safer. easier to hook up with wires shown in first pic as well. i had an ammeter, but it turns out it didnt work. voltmeters replaced ammeters as more reliable in about '74 anyway.
there is quite a bit of material you have to read to do this properly, as the plug in connector has to have 4 or 5 wires removed and re-connected in different holes, as well as having to add a wire from the connector to the distributor for the tach. go to www.nastyZ28.com and click Restoration articles, then Interiors, then U-14 instrument cluster swap. there are pictures and a detailed explanation of what goes where. also you have to deal with undoing the bottom dash parts under the steering column and drop the column about a 1/2" to get the cluster out.
NOTE: TACH DID NOT WORK AT FIRST. NOTICE ON LEFT CENTER-BACK OF TACH- ON THIRD PICTURE, THERE IS A HOLE IN THE CIRCUIT CARD! I HAVE PUT A BOLT AND NUT THERE. THIS IS THE GROUND FOR THE TACH. AS THE HOUSING IS PLASTIC, LIGHTS IN THE TACH WILL NOT GROUND IT. I BELIEVE I HAVE FIXED THE TACH PROBLEM.


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  [Entry #33]

07-23-2005 06:33 PM inside of doors/new glass, deck lid
these show both that the jambs were painted, as the doors were actually removed for paint. also shows there are no scratches in any of the glass, also that the trunk will stay up with the spoiler since the torsion spring was replaced with the proper one for the extra wgt of the spoiler (which it didnt have before). this also shows the factory stock ralley wheels. they are easily painted


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  [Entry #32]

07-23-2005 06:27 PM trunk repainted
here is first a picture of the trunk as it looked before i started. you can see some surface rust, which was wire brushed off and then killed. you can see there are no holes thru the metal. then two after pictures of what it looks like splattered, clear coated, and the tail light buckets painted factory off-white. the primer is primer from the factory. it was painted with trunk paint only where the factory sprayed it. drivers side looks just like the passengers side.


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  [Entry #31]

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