Started working on the door part of the fender-to-door transition on the passenger side. First, I trimmed the edge to match the fender edge, then I rolled the edge with a hammer and dolly. The rolled edge still needs a little bit of work, but it's close. The gap looks good and the top edge still clears the fender as the door opens.
Not bad for a guy with a $30 set of hammers and dollies from Northern Tool.
I finished welding the bed side piece into the fender. The trailing edge came out good. I'd left material to allow me to weld the outer skin to the inner skin to within an inch of the top. The rest of the top edge was rolled with a hammer and dolly.
The second photo shows the distance that the top of the door skin will be moved out with these bed side pieces.
Tacked the piece from the spare bedside in to the passenger side fender after rolling the edge for the A-pillar and the door with a hammer and dolly. I had to rework the gap a couple of times, moving the A-pillar gap about 1/4 inch and the door gap about 1/8 inch. It appears to clear the door at full open.
I opened the edge of the fender where it meets the top edge of the door to allow better fitting of the spare bed side. This piece is coming along as filler for the fender-to-door transition. I hammered the edge that will fit up to the A-pillar. Thanks to all of the folks who post their metalworking videos on YouTube - man, what an education one can get for free.
Attached the S10 front fender mounting bracket to the bed side at the bottom of the fender and the top.
I bent a piece of 18 gauge to fill the gap between the top fender mounting bracket and the bed side. The door edge gap is much closer to stock now that the bracket position is fixed.