|Got a drop axle
Outside before anything:
Outside after the rear step:
outside after rear step and drop axle:
|So last time I left off I was carving some engine mounts. I followed the BT Method. I cut 2x3 stock 4 1/2 inches long. I wanted to wrap the curved edge to add some strength. I was *****footing around over thinking it, when J scow, fellow hamber and brother from another mother came over and took my idea and ran with it. Here is what he came up with.
He made 4 in 2 hours. 2 for me and 2 for him. It cost 20 dollars in material. We'll end up capping the open part during finish welding. I also waited to get them in the chassis before I drilled the hole for the engine mount. Just to get it perfect. So at about this point I had just about everything I needed to make a car..... except a complete engine, while I do have a good builder. It's not ready to go in a car.....J scow to the rescue again. He had this 100 dollar complete turns over 59AB out of 46 sedan that he was storing in my garage.(he doesn't have a garage yet, we're working on it.) So I pulled off the side shift trans and bolted my free toploader up. It had a 33-34 rear mount on it. But it luckily came with the correct one suggested above. the one on the left.
Here we are mocking it up. We set the motor at the right height on jack stands and we rolled the chassis back and forth to see where we liked the motor.
We tried to set it as far forward as was reasonable. We ended up setting the mounts right up against the crossmember.
With the motor on it's mounts it was time to figure out the trans crossmember.
I decided to go with the F1 crossmember I got for free.
Where it needed to go was 29 1/2 inches wide and way to tall. So I cut 1.5 inches off each end and fit it to inside the rails. I left the bottom portion of the crossmember so it can be shaped to fit the bottom of the rail.
We put in the crossmember and rolled it out side.
then set the body back on......luckily it seems to fit.
As you can see I put the drivers door on a while back. along with getting things a little more solid and connected. The body is really starting to come together. I've got a little bit more I could post, But I want to finish that step first. Thanks for looking.
I pushed the car outside to look at it today after a drop axle.
Last picture with the undropped 36 axle to be sent out this week.
|I'm unsuccessfully teaching myself to make sheet metal things. But here is a tid bit......
Last time I left off I had slid the replacement rail into the passenger side. I used sheet metal screws threw the original rivet holes to hold it together. I'll completely weld it later once everything fits together. Scroll back a few pages if you need a picture.
I figured the next thing to do would be to fix and attach the passenger B pillar. It looks like this.
So I removed the triangle brace.
And I bought some 18g a few months back.
and made a pattern.
I then transferred it to the metal.
and cut it out with these( what a PITA, I need something better)
And started bending.
This was my first attempt.....:o Kinda embarrassed.
I did all this all with my vice, a piece of 1inch square tube. a hammer, and the back splash of my work bench. It at this point it needed some refinement.....
I kept on cutting, and things started looking like this.
first test fit
But it needs to look more like this.
****ty picture. But there is a little indent at the bottom.
I just kept shaping things.
next thing you know, I'd cut out the b pillar.
More cutting, grinding, and filing.
fitting a little better
First test fit with clamps
So about the gaps and clamps, I ended up having trouble practice welding with the clamps and old metal. I tended to burn threw a lot. With new metal, the clamps seemed fine. I ended up welding with vise grips as clamps.
I ended up just tacking things together for now. I thought I might redo this piece again at at a later date. there is a line in the original that the quarter panel skin raps around so it is flush mounted with the rest of the pillar. I wasn't able to duplicate that at this time. But I feel good considering this is the first piece of metal I have ever shaped, even though it's amateur at best. On the bottom I used a sheet metal screw to hold things in place of a rivet. I plan on learning how to redo the stock rivets and want to be able to adjust things as I fit the doors and roof back on.
And now for something completely different.
It was at this point I switched it up a little and jumped back to the chassis. The drivers rail, while it need some work, is still sound. I'm still working on panel beating so while practicing that I started on the motor mounts. I went with what "THE BOOK" says. I used 2x3 .125 wall tubing cut it 4 1/2 inches long. I cut it with my trusty band saw.
I highly recommend you buy one of these on craigslist if you are a beginner like me. They can be had cheap.
Then I marked the shape I wanted using what I had available.
| I got a rear end under her. I'm using a 40 banjo rear. Here is how I converted it to Spring over. I got the idea from HAMB Member Chris, Who learned it from another member.... So I can't take any credit for this cool trick at all. Here it goes.
I started with a pair of Model A Bells.
Used this to make most of the cuts...
I mounted the bell in the Bandsaw and started cutting.
I ended up with this chunk.
Which eventually became these
I made a bunch of pie relief cuts....which I don't have any pictures of...
and then after a little of this....(don't worry I didn't stand over it with sparks shooting between my legs the whole time)
You have this
which now will bolt to the end of the axle housing at the backing plate bolt holes.... Which gives you spring over perches!
And the moment we've all been waiting for!
The first roll out!
So last time we left off the car looked like this.....
Unfortunately, this is a little unrealistic. I only have the main leaf installed in the rear. I hadn't even reversed the eyes. So I went ahead and reversed the front and rear main leafs along with installing more leafs in the rear. I also put the motor and trans in resting on some temp crossmembers.....
that got me this.....
Check out that decklid....a little dented, but no rust....Got it cheap too.
One problem....the rear is a little high ain't it.....I think a little step is in order...But first I wanted to get the body solid. So I started bracing things up. I ran two long pieces the length of the body welded to the subframe crossmembers. I then ran x braces from them to the top pieces I had installed. The body feels really solid now. I think I might hide a X in the body behind the seat.
After I had everything where I wanted it I started to remove the rivets from the passenger side subframe. I like to grind the head off and drive them threw with a punch and hammer.
after I removed all the rivets, I cut right behind the b pillar. Basically everything came out really easy. Here it is removed.
after I cleaned up the little stray bits. the new rail slid right in.
Somewhere along the lines I picked up a y-block tri power. It came with 3 holley 94's and 5 stromberg 97's. basically bought the manifold and got the 97's free. Go ahead and hate me....
those are going to look great on this not stuck flathead. Thanks Marty!
well, I gotta go eat dinner....that's all you get for now.
|Here is the first mock up.
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