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Pages (128): [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128

08-23-2016 09:14 PM Nose
Time to do the header panel over the grill. A piece of 18 ga. was cut to 1-3/16'' wide x 14'' long. A bead was rolled down the middle and a relief was cut to allow a 1/4'' flange to be made. The flanges were then run through the shrinker to get the shape and the excess was trimmed off of both ends. Welding ensued. Grinding followed that. The 10 diamond shaped holes were also filled. A little rattle can gray will keep the rust bloom away.

There is one hole where the hood latch plate mounts to the hood that needs repair. Other than that, the left rear fender and the right front fender may need tweaked which would require cutting and welding. Not sure if I am going to do the fender work as it is hardly noticeable as is. Think I am going to get some opinions.

After that, the right front fender, the chin, the header over the grill, and the hood need to be cleaned up and put in epoxy primer. Then filler, high build, etc. I think I better get the paint booth set up next.


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  [Entry #639]

07-02-2016 06:01 PM Nose
Time to do the header panel over the grill. A piece of 18 ga. was cut to 1-3/16'' wide x 14'' long. A bead was rolled down the middle and a relief was cut to allow a 1/4'' flange to be made. The flanges were then run through the shrinker to get the shape and the excess was trimmed off of both ends. Welding ensued. Grinding followed that. The 10 diamond shaped holes were also filled. A little rattle can gray will keep the rust bloom away.

There is one hole where the hood latch plate mounts to the hood that needs repair. Other than that, the left rear fender and the right front fender may need tweaked which would require cutting and welding. Not sure if I am going to do the fender work as it is hardly noticeable as is. Think I am going to get some opinions.

After that, the right front fender, the chin, the header over the grill, and the hood need to be cleaned up and put in epoxy primer. Then filler, high build, etc. I think I better get the paint booth set up next.


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  [Entry #638]

07-01-2016 08:17 PM Hood and Nose
The brace is installed in the hood.

The hood profile was adjusted several times until results were not noticeable. It's not perfect but it will have to do. If I were to cut it and re-weld it, it may get better. Or worse.

After the hinges were attached and adjusted, some of the low spots were hammer and dollied out. This alleviated some of the oil canning. A few shrinks were performed to pull in some of the stretching that has occurred as well as some of the excess metal that resulted from the center line shrink from welding the hood into one piece. I checked it against the good stock hood I have. Both of them have some give and they are about the same. There is a lot of nearly flat real estate here with no internal bracing.

The filler panel between the hood and the grill was cleaned up and a coat of weld through primer was applied. There are 10 diamond shaped holes which were for chrome strips. The 3 large holes were for the ''Chevrolet'' piece of pot metal. Fabbing a filler piece and welding should happen tomorrow.


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  [Entry #637]

06-30-2016 06:08 PM Hood
Time to fine tune the hood. Used some shims to create a 1/8'' gap along the fender top.

There is a brace that bolts in the front portion of the hood. It ties both sided together and also ''seals'' the nose from the engine compartment as it comes down in front of the core support. I believe the back bolt of the hood ornament locked this brace to the center of the hood. A 1/4'' nut was ground and tack welded to the original hole. The brace was then bolted in.

The gap on the left rear trailing edge of the hood was awful. I am not really sure why. I have measured and from every reference point, the front end is centered near perfect. If the hood came from the car, I would be concerned that the fenders, inner fenders, core support, and hood are all equally tweaked. But the hood is from another car and the core support is from yet another car. So the trailing edge was marked, cut and ground back, welded, and ground smooth. It is still tight. Problem is that the inner support is touching the cowl. Getting the contour to match the cowl will help eliminate the contact, but I really can't gain any more gap. I am thinking that the nuts on the left side of the cowl to core support rods will need to be cranked about 1-1/2 turns to move the nose over to the right a bit. That will have to wait til tomorrow. Weather came in so had to make room for the daily driver as we had a chance for hail.

The final shot shows that the hood is starting to look better. Just not there yet.


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  [Entry #636]

06-29-2016 09:11 PM Hood
Removed the front fenders so the radiator support could be centered and set plumb. Tightened the bolts holding it to the cross member for the first time ever to assure it wouldn't move around.

Bolted it all back together making sure that everything was lined up as perfect as possible.

From 20 foot it looks great!

Up close, the gaps need a lot of work. The right side gap is really good but the trailing edge of the hood does not follow the leading edge of the cowl very well. The left side is bad on both counts.


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  [Entry #635]

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