The most recent project was putting the radio head in the ceiling. The idea is that it will have a dropped ceiling that completely covers the radio head when the radio is off. The radio is connected on a pivot. The pivot is connected to a servo that turns when power is added. Power is added using the antennae lead from the radio. When the radio is turned on, the antennae lead turns on and the servo tips the radio head down so the face protrudes below the dropped ceiling. When it is turned off, the radio returns to a horizontal position where it is flush with the surrounding headliner. The servo is from a Chevy Suburban heater vent control. I used a relay to flip the polarity between off and on. The radio head has a remote control so this makes the radio stealth unless it is on.
Well I finally started working on the interior. I bought a RodDoors headliner kit. My goal was to create a headliner that did not look like the flat top with sides. I like the idea of a headliner that has rounded transition from the roof to the sides. I purchased three sheets of 1/8" ABS plastic. I made the door panels and rear kick panels from this material. I was able to heat it up an form the fender bulge in the rear panels. On the headliner, I had to split the main piece down the middle because the RodDoors kit is a "one size fits all". What were they thinking? This was not worth what I had to pay for it. I glued additional panels to each side, creating two long side pieces that end up about 6" apart. I then put an 8" wide strip down the center to complete the headliner. The front header piece was trimmed to fit and heated up and formed at the sides. I also mounted tweeters in the header panel to complete the sound system. The S10 blazer headliner console secures the panels in the center, while the supplied heavy duty velcro tabs secure it in several other places. When done, all this ABS will be covered in light gray pleather.
I wanted to have a decent sound system, but space is a premium in a car like this. I decided to use the corner of the body as a subwoofer box in the right rear next to the seat. I sealed the enclosure to get more bass. I used 3/4" laminated particle board, glueing it in with Gorilla glue and "Great Stuff" to ensure a good seal. The 10" sub is powered by a 400W amp mounted in the center of the spare tire area. The sounds is good and really fills in the bass. There is a subwoofer control up front so you can control how much bass you want.
I finally decided on the paint color for the final product. To start I repainted the engine parts. I am sticking with the silver base/clear that is on the suspension, frame spreaders, brakes, block and heads. I have painted the valve covers, oil pan, waterpump, and intake in a Viper Red. The final paint scheme will be Viper red and Silver with the split at the belt line. No commitment yet on whether the top will be red or silver.
This is the final product of the front opening hood project. See other entry about the inner hood panel and the custom latches.
This entry is about the hinges themselves.
They are 304 stainless made from 3/4" X 1/8" bar stock. Sanding and polishing was big project in itself, but they look like chrome now.
I bought stainless cap screws and nylon lock nuts for the pivot points.
I mounted the hinges to the firewall, putting a little HVAC putty on the inside of the firewall to retain the bolting plates, then tightened up the brackets to sandwich the firewall and keep the hinges in place.
The hinges are sucured to the hood inner panel in the same way. This allows for ful adjustments horizontally and virtically.
The hood worked out pretty well. I pull the hood release inside the car and the hood pops up to the safety. I get out and push the safety to release it and the hood raises itself because of the gas spring.