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We wrote an article exposing a kit-car company called Streetbeasts.

Now, they've tried to silence us with a frivolous lawsuit.

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Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Journal > C-10's Journal

View C-10's profile Entries: 8
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10-26-2009 07:16 AM Drivability Updates Continued
If we change rear gear, we've got to change the speedo. This posed a small problem. I guess the root of the problem is obsolescence. This truck has the Muncie SM318 manual gearbox. The output shaft has a steel speedo drive gear that is pressed on and is like hen's teeth to find different sizes. Coming up with a smaller driven gear was easy.

Smaller driven gear with the same size drive gear and speedo no WORKY. A solution for me was to machine down the original speedo bullet then manufacture an eccentric that would dial in the difference between the old driven gear and the new one. This difference happened to be .043". Once the newly adjusted bullet was secured by the bolt on tab in the trans it cannot rotate.

It was a not so easy way to get a speedometer to work again.

Drivability Updates Continued
(click photo to enlarge)
Drivability Updates Continued
(click photo to enlarge)
Drivability Updates Continued
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #8]

09-24-2009 07:11 AM Drivability updates
This truck is powered by the mighty 250 inline six. What? Did you say 250? Isn't that supposed to be a 230? Nope. This truck was built in LATE '65. 66 was the first year for the 250. Don't believe me? Look up the engine code suffix. Suffix TF. Maybe it was swapped out at some point but, given this trucks history of owners, I don't think so.

To get the highway revs down, I needed to get the 3.73's OUT. So I do'd dit.

Enter 3.08's and a GOV LOCK... Had 'em laying around, why not. Set up the new-used gears to perfection. Much better. If I tear up a GOV LOCK with my mean buzzin' half dozen, I will only laugh.

It's gonna be sweet!

Drivability updates
(click photo to enlarge)
Drivability updates
(click photo to enlarge)
Drivability updates
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #7]

09-23-2009 04:54 AM Ah, rust
Don't you just love the smell of rust?

Hey it's crusty but still solid. C'mon, I'm not building a Riddler here...

Note the short bed step. This helps locate everything nicely to figure out the cross braces relative to the bed sides. The old braces have returned to the earth along with the wood bed floor.

Next up, Drivability updates.

Ah, rust
(click photo to enlarge)
Ah, rust
(click photo to enlarge)
Ah, rust
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #6]

09-23-2009 04:45 AM Oxy-acetlyne therapy
Oxy-acetlyne therapy.

Cut frame nice and square, bevel grind, and grind some more. Note how after frame is cut, you simply slide cross member forward. That is the wheel base change. 12 inches worth.

Oxy-acetlyne therapy
(click photo to enlarge)
Oxy-acetlyne therapy
(click photo to enlarge)
Oxy-acetlyne therapy
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #5]

09-23-2009 04:36 AM Tails- Shortbed.
Don't give me crap for cutting on this old heap, ok? ;-)

Ended up shortening the front section of the bed 12" and the rear 4. Went ahead and cut 13" from the front frame section to tuck the bed a little closer to the cab. Works for me.

There was just enough metal left to weld to.



Tails- Shortbed.
(click photo to enlarge)
Tails- Shortbed.
(click photo to enlarge)
Tails- Shortbed.
(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #4]

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