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Old 02-13-2013, 06:48 AM
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junk pan or junk brain?

sbc, date code on block gone, 3970010, driver side dip.

bought a new oil pan off ebay. yea, cheap chinese one, i know. don't say it. lol. thin front seal too small, so bought a one piece with thick front seal. but now the pan sits up 1/4" or better before i tighten bolts. tried pushing down on pan, tried lightly tapping gasket to make sure it is seated in timing cover all the way. same results. manufacturer stated to use the thick seal, and crank down. uh, not so sure that's the right answer. measured pan nose, 2 3/8. so that is the thick seal. anyone else had this problem?

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Old 02-13-2013, 07:02 AM
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gasket

i use the 4 pc gasket and do use the think front rear rubber seal too.. it does sit a litte proud but i don't recall 1/4".. i also use hi temp rtv just to make sure.. if u are in with one of the parts guys, ask to see a 4 pc set and look at the big front seal to compare.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:09 AM
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actually, i did compare. i have the 4 pc set, with thick and thin. the front seals are same size. i started to tighten bolts but it seemed like it was pushing the gasket out. probably just a crap pan. thanks!
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:08 AM
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Actually , when I put the current [one of those wizz-bang fabricated 6 qut. trap-door jobs] pan on using a 1-piece gskt , I had to use all thread as studs in the 4 corners to pull the pan down to where the regular bolts would catch , then replace the all-thread w/ the reg bolts. I also put a dab of rtv in the corners & a thin coat on the end seal portions [emphasis on thin] pans been on 4 years now & is the first leak free sbc I've ever had! [& that's in 45+ years] Love the 1-piece seal!!
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:20 AM
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junk pan or junk brain?

Try this product to hold the gasket in place on the oil pan. Put some bolts in place to line everything up. 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 5 oz. Tube - Yellow. When installing the pan to the block don't forget to use some Permatex Ultra BlackŪ Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker where the front and rear gasket meet the oil pan rail. Try bolting the pan from the middle and work to the front and rear evenly.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:04 AM
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My pans that I install get the bolt holes tapped flat with a hammer. When the pan was tightened last the bolt holes edges on the pans flange distort. Causing inward poking up into the gasket, usually pinching at every bolt. It will leak everytime.

Tap it flat. A flat surface to seal is a beautiful thing.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2old2fast View Post
Actually , when I put the current [one of those wizz-bang fabricated 6 qut. trap-door jobs] pan on using a 1-piece gskt , I had to use all thread as studs in the 4 corners to pull the pan down to where the regular bolts would catch , then replace the all-thread w/ the reg bolts. I also put a dab of rtv in the corners & a thin coat on the end seal portions [emphasis on thin] pans been on 4 years now & is the first leak free sbc I've ever had! [& that's in 45+ years] Love the 1-piece seal!!
Yep with four longer bolts or studs it makes it alot easier to start the pan.

RTV is not usally for rubber gaskets. Unless it says to use it leave the gorilla snot in the box. Rubber gaskets should seal up without it. if they leak they should be cleaned and reseated dry not with rtv. RTV will make the gasket squish out the side. a little indian head gasket to clue it to the pan and maybe some books to hold it down while the glue sets.

Also I think the newer pans use longer bolts. You may need to do the same the factory bolts are very short and if stripped can be replaced with a longer bolt to grab some good threads.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Yep with four longer bolts or studs it makes it alot easier to start the pan.

RTV is not usally for rubber gaskets. Unless it says to use it leave the gorilla snot in the box. Rubber gaskets should seal up without it. if they leak they should be cleaned and reseated dry not with rtv. RTV will make the gasket squish out the side. a little indian head gasket to clue it to the pan and maybe some books to hold it down while the glue sets.

Also I think the newer pans use longer bolts. You may need to do the same the factory bolts are very short and if stripped can be replaced with a longer bolt to grab some good threads.
The 1-piece gskts. I've used are made from a very soft rubber compound . RTV =room temperature vulcanizing silicone rubber. When disassembled I was unable to seperate the RTV from the gskt.[previous build] the RTV had literally become part of the gasket. I believe if used judiciously that RTV works very well w/ rubber gasket's in certain circumstances, & the results I've experienced bears this out.

dave
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:42 PM
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walk into any advanced autoparts and ask to look at the sbc dorman pan,, (made in china)
and compare it to yours.. me bet it's the same pan.. if yours looks like a twin to the dorman , them you'll be fine..
if not, buy the dorman.. as your going cheap.. I like moroso myself..
really like stef's but my wallets always to thin..
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:11 AM
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thanks for all the help. gonna carefully crank 'er down and cross fingers.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:33 AM
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do you have any pictures?
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