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Old 07-29-2013, 07:20 PM
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Junk yard 454

Hello everyone I am looking to do a junk yard 454. I am thinking about pulling a four bolt main out of an old chevy truck and beefing it up for my next project which will be built around the motor. I am looking for something with a little more torque but still pulls pretty hard around the 4000-4500 mark. I am thinking in the end it should have a high rise intake with 2 double pumpers. My budget is probably around 4000. This will be my first engine build alone so please feel free to give any and all suggestions on cam, crank, rods, head, intake, ect. I am a beginner having never done a whole engine before so please tell me everything I should know. Oh and should I get a block with a 2 piece rear main seal or 1? Also if I am buying a block out of the junk pile or off craigslist what should I be looking for. I am thinking of boring it 30 or 60 over depending on the block. If I do this should I stroke it too? Any and all suggestions are awesome and thank you all for your time.

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Old 07-29-2013, 07:32 PM
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go price out some of the parts you think are cool,add a "G" note for machine work.stick with 1 carb if you are new to hot rodding.
I see a very nice 380 HP 454 in your budget
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:48 PM
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Get one out of a motor home. They have a different cam and will give more torque that your're interested in. So I'm told.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:19 PM
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please tell me everything I should know. Oh and should I get a block with a 2 piece rear main seal or 1? Also if I am buying a block out of the junk pile or off craigslist

Don't want much.. Horsepower/speed costs money. How fast you wanna go?

If you go shopping for used engine. Remember, from the seller, It's always a 454 "Corvette motor" and was "just rebuilt".

In reality.. Always demand to pull oil pan and one head..
Otherwise it's a $200.00 or less, core motor.

Measure 4.250" bore first. Look for color, no black/blue parts. Check for wear ridge at top of cylinders. Streaks in cylinder. Try to move crankshaft front to rear with pry bar. Should be no movement, by the eye. Try to move rods side to side/up-down no, or very little movement by eye.

You won't find many 4-bolt, 2-piece seal, 454 truck motors.
GM got real stingy with them after 72. Very few in pickups. Maybe in a medium duty box truck or cab and chassis.
Most will have cast cranks also.

All one piece seal motors will be four bolt. Cylinders are a bit thinner but will easily go .060" oversize bore. Somewhat limited on cylinder heads if using factory stuff. Very few steel cranks in these either.

If you have to buy heads, go aftermkt. More horsepower right out of the box. If you buy a 454 from the mid seventies it will usually have 049 or 781 heads on it. Very good flowing factory heads if larger valves are installed and minor bowl/port work.

If you just get a block and have to buy internals go stroker, you will never regret it..

Big blocks like lots of valve lift.. Strong springs. They are hard on flat tappet cams so roller is better. Also domed pistons are required to get compression up 10.25 is a respectable ratio for street..
Holley Strip Dominator intakes are plentiful on the used market and work well.

Last edited by BOBCRMAN@aol.com; 07-29-2013 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:12 PM
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where you finding these 200.00 core bbc..

my 4 bolt 2 piece rear seal 454 was out if a mid 80's dually
fully dressed 800.00 and that was in 2002
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:40 AM
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Buy them all the time. Presently have 37 of them in inventory. Many bought for under $75.00. More than scrap yards pay for them. Scrappers bring them to me. BBCs havent been produced for a few years now. Prices will go up.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:16 AM
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Buy them all the time. Presently have 37 of them in inventory. Many bought for under $75.00. More than scrap yards pay for them. Scrappers bring them to me. BBCs havent been produced for a few years now. Prices will go up.
ya ok you can't touch a bbc from a yard here for under 700-800 bucks.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:30 AM
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Junk yard 454

Ok so when I am looking for blocks, what is the difference between a long and a short block? If I am going stroker what block should I be looking at? If I go stroker what crank should I be looking for, for a decent but reliable price? If I go stroker am I going to need heads with more lift or will the 049 or 078 be fine? Thanks for all of the help everyone.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 1967camaro1000 View Post
Ok so when I am looking for blocks, what is the difference between a long and a short block? If I am going stroker what block should I be looking at? If I go stroker what crank should I be looking for, for a decent but reliable price? If I go stroker am I going to need heads with more lift or will the 049 or 078 be fine? Thanks for all of the help everyone.
long block = block+heads and sometimes the intake and all internal parts

short block is the block/crank/rods/pistons/oil pump no heads or upper parts.

if you are going stroker just get a bare good block with caps.
and build from there..
u got mail
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:49 AM
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scrap prices

When I was teaching auto classes at the college some of the scrappers used to trade us pound for pound parts for kids to practice on. Every once in a while a real jewel showed up and those were sold to students to rase some money to replace broken tools. . The shop assistant knew every Chevy casting number and kept a close eye when new junk came in and when they were pulled apart.
If I remember right there were tall deck big blocks, It has been a few years.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967camaro1000 View Post
Ok so when I am looking for blocks, what is the difference between a long and a short block? If I am going stroker what block should I be looking at? If I go stroker what crank should I be looking for, for a decent but reliable price? If I go stroker am I going to need heads with more lift or will the 049 or 078 be fine? Thanks for all of the help everyone.
I'd suggest you get a book or two on rebuilding and hotrodding the BBC.

You do not need a stroker crank. A properly built 454 will fry the tires off and the money you save by turning the stock crank will be better spent elsewhere.

This will give you an idea of what you might expect to get, power-wise, from a 454 using "peanut port" heads and a streetable camshaft, headers, and 4-barrel setup. No need for dual fours, one carb will run better and is cheaper and easier to tune. That engine in its base form doesn't seem like a world beater, but I guaran-grant you it would run great in a 3200 pound car.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:59 AM
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If I go stroker what crank should I be looking for, for a decent but reliable price? If I go stroker am I going to need heads with more lift or will the 049 or 078 be fine

Economical stroker cranks are available from Scat, Eagle, ProComp. As are rods and pistons. Right now Summit has best prices on Hyper eutectic pistons for 4.25" stroker

049 and 781 heads can be set up for the lift you will need using aftermkt parts. But your machinest must be experienced to know what is involved..
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post

049 and 781 heads can be set up for the lift you will need using aftermkt parts. But your machinest must be experienced to know what is involved..
How can you tell if it has 049 or 781 heads on it? Out of the two which is the better one? Again everyone thank you so much for all of the information.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:52 AM
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when you say better heads? better heads for what purpose? what is this little engine destined to do ? Are you racing the car or just want a fun big block to have a big block
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:21 PM
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Junk yard 454

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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
when you say better heads? better heads for what purpose? what is this little engine destined to do ? Are you racing the car or just want a fun big block to have a big block
This is going to go into my next custom hot rod truck. Its no race car but then again I have no light foot. I want one that you can bury your foot in 1000 times and not worry about it blowing up or throwing a rod or something. I want one that can spin the tires in 2nd gear going up the road at 20mph. This truck will be light but mostly steel, so no a carbon fiber shell or anything. My guess in the end it will weigh 4500 pounds. Don't care about gas mileage, if i am getting gallons per mile that is fine because the smile on my face will be worth more than I am paying for in gas. Thank you.
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