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I'm considering swapping the motor to 12 volt in the original '37 heater and using it to defrost the dash. Then mounting a separate heater/ac unit in the trunk. A knowledgable rodder told me on cars with AC the defrost setting runs the compressor to dehumidify the air while adding heat, clearing fog faster than heat alone, so I may also run a defrost vent line from the rear unit to the inlet of the front heater.
Can someone tell me: 1) When rear heat is used on a vehicle that also has front heat, does the outlet from the front heater core feed into the rear core, or is there some method of running cores in parallel? 2) What is the longest ventilation duct anyone has seen coming off a a rear a/c unit and how large was the duct? Thanks |
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Hmmm
Mounting the unit under the floor doesn't sound like a good idea, as it will be subject to both abrasion and thermal loss/gain. Mounting in the trunk will also result in thermal loss/gain. I'm not sure how cold your winters are, or if you'll even drive this in the cold, but insulating the heater hose run, and protecting it from abrasion and moisture alone would be enough to discourage that idea for me. I would strongly recommend an integrated under-dash unit if at all possible. I was looking at the newest offerings at Vintage Air after reading this thread the other day. The cable conversion and electric acuator technology that they are using sounds really good. Pardon the pun ... but vacuum "sucks". (Especially when it comes to cammed-up low vacuum engines.) I believe that hoses can be custom-made to fit virtually any compressor. Be sure to flush any used components, have the entire system pressurized with nitrogen, a/c dye, etc to make sure there are no leaks. Replace the accumulator, and the orifice tube with an R134a version. Then install an approved refrigerant (i.e. R134A) and don't mess around with things like Duracool / Red-Tek replacements, as most shops use a refrigerant verifier to see what refrigerant you have installed. Why? So that they don't risk contaminating their expensive equipment and /or the time involved in swapping recovery tanks and flushing lines, etc. That's my $0.02 worth ... Last edited by 66GMC; 06-05-2012 at 07:44 PM. |
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Still weighing the pros and cons of each.
New Aftermarket (Vintage Air, etc...) advantages: 1) All new parts 2) Easy to order with hoses that match my compressor (I think). 3) Small unit will fit under dash New Aftermarket (Vintage Air, etc...) disadvantages: 1) Cost 2) Even though unit is small, will still be crowded under dash of my '37 with limited access to other systems. 3) Reliant on aftermarket replacement parts A rodder on another site said his next fatbody would have a trunk mounted ac unit due to under dash space. If I mount a heater/AC unit in the trunk, can route ducts forward. On another site gave this info: "Full size trailblazers (8 passenger) have ac in the rear. I think the duct is about 2 1/2 inches. 2 inches would probably be good depending on how big your cab is. A trailblazer is a pretty big vehicle." Still working on best plan. Thanks |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Mutt's37Buick For This Useful Post: | ||
fwinter01 (02-15-2013) | ||
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1) Can any one tell me if the "air intake" for the Vintage air Gen 2 Super Heat/Cool unit is hooked to an outside vent. I could not see anything in the install instructions.
2) Is the the cowl vent usually closed off when Vintage Air or other aftermarket air is added? Thanks Mutt |
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I left my cowl vent intact on my 49 chebby p/u so I could have nice fresh air on good days, and tucked my vintage air under the dash. Had to shorten my glovebox though. Worked out well.
Brad... |
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I'm leaning towards a heater & AC system from a '94-'97 Honda Accord. It compact and is pretty similar to to the Civic.
The system has separate housings for the blower, evaporator, and heater core and the manual says you can remove them separately. 1) Does anyone know how these sections are joined to each other. 2) The control panel has one cable for heat control and the rest of the controls are electronic. Does anyone know if the controls are stand alone so they do not need the car computer to operate? Thanks Mutt |
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