First, i have searched the database here and have not found what i'm asking, so if i missed something, i apologize.
I'm looking for a 327 motor to put in a camaro, which i dont yet have.
my question is, when i go to a junkyard to find one, what do i need to look for, as far as knowing if the block is cracked or if it's rebuildable-acceptable, rebuildable-good, rebuidable-nightmare, mortgage scenario?
i'm new to this world, relatively. I've always had the interest, but i always had alot of hobbies. Now i'm getting into this one and it's exciting already! So please bear with my mundane questions at times.
Also, is there any way of getting an idea on what to pay for one of these motors?
I am going on the assumption that it's best to have the motor out of the car as i strip it down and rebuild, before bolting it in...
My personal opinion is that you will not have much luck locating a 327 in a salvage yard, considering they have been out of production for almost 30 years. You will have better chances of locating one by either going to EBay, or swap meets. There is not much any one can tell you about what to look out for, unless you know the history of the engine, or the owner. I happen to know where two complete 327's are and I could see if the individual would be interested in selling one if you wish. Be aware though, they can bring a premium price.
Check with your local machinist's. They have the needed contact's and can often times guarantee you a rebuildable core. You also get to know the machinist. They can assist you in your goals. Be nice to him/her, set up a good repertoire. That's probably you safest bet. But it may come a price as well.
A couple of years ago I ran across a 327 at a junkyard in Flagstaff, AZ. You might try giving him a call The name of the salvage yard is H & S and there number is 928-526-1110
i know someone who has a 66 impala w/ a nice 327.
selling the whole thing for $800 or maybe less
maybe you can just buy the engine
Forget the junkyards for an engine unless you get a yard in a warm climate. In colder climates, if you find one chances are it would be trashed from freezing and thawing. There are a lot out there. My '62 Impala has a 283 but it is a 327 block. It came from the factory that way. They would grab what was on the shelf if the regular part wasn't there and make it work. It is a 283 because of the bore size. You can make a 327 out of a 283 block. You have all kinds of meat to bore so that is something to keep in the back of your head. My numbers on my block designate 327. Someone on this site (at least I think this site) had some 350 blocks and a 327 block they were going to get rid of. Get ahold of a Rod Shop in your area and talk to them. They usually have bulletin boards up with parts for sale or know someone who will have one. Look locally because shipping would be more than what you could buy on for. As for cost...for a non-running block...around $150-200 complete and maybe a little less depending on the condition. Arm yourself with some block numbers or someone will sell you something that it is not. You can check numbers HERE, RIGHT HERE!!! Click on the left side of it or click on the right side of it. You can even click right in the middle!!!! Good luck and let us know what you find out there.
I was doing a search a little bit ago for something else and ran across this which may or may not help you out. If it doesn't just throw it in the trash can. http://www.mywebsearch.com/jsp/GGmai...ll+block+chevy
thx for all the advice. i have a couple questions and comments.
first, i definitely dont want a rebuilt or kicking motor. The main thing i'd like to get out of this hobby is the knowledge of tearing it down and fixing it and putting it back together. Then i want to bolt it into a body that i've re-stored, turn the key and go happy into the sunset looking for my next one.
So that being said, i'm going to call the numbers and other resources you all mentioned here, and see what they have to say.
question: when you say "block", do you mean, literally, just the block itself, or the block, pistons, cam, etc? Or maybe a better question is, should i concentrate on just getting a good block, and then replace all the guts as i go? And if that's the best case, quality wise, is it also much more expensive then fixing wht you can and replacing what you must?
This may be silly, but are there any simple tests when looking at prospective motors, to see if they are cracked or shot?
Can i pour oil into them or water or something that will leak out or should i pretend i never asked that question and slink away back to my dungeon and get to turning wrenches?
Kevin hit the nail on the head with junk yard stuff. Sometimes you can get a decent block, but there are a lot of things that can go wrong. Around here, one of the yards that I use will guarentee no cracks, but only to the point of me picking out another block and trying again. That's on 350s, though, and finding a 327 complete and in good shape will be tricky, at best.
To check for cracks, you really need it torn down and checked, by magnafluxing. That means that buying a bone yard engine and finding a bad one is a lot of work, just to find out you need to do more work. There aren't any great shortcuts, just some time to tear them down. It would be a good learning experience, but it is time consuming and can get a little frustrating.
If you are set on a 327, find a good 350 block and get a 327 large journal crank- (Same block) Buy a couple of books, "How to Rebuild SB", "How to Hotrod SB Chev," "Chev SB V-8 Interchange Manual," or several others. Just do a search and look for SB books. I would get the books first and then start looking around.
Good luck with this project. Just remember to have fun and ask a lot of questions as you go. There are a lot of SB Chev folks on this board that can answer a lot of questions.
I would just find a 350 block which are cheap and plentiful and a 307 crank which are also plentiful, grab some decent pistons for a 327 and there you have it.
so, for me, this begs the question, and again if i'm way off base i apologize, but then,
what is the difference between a factory 327 and a 350 block made into a 327? ( if i asked that right) and what are the pro's/cons?
i always thought you could make a smaller motor into a bigger engine, but not vice-versa.
i'm very glad i found this place!!
327 to 350 are the same blocks. You have a different stroke. This may simplify things a little:
262 = 3.671" x 3.10" (Gen. I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('55-'57 Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('94-'96 Gen.II, 4.3 liter V-8 "L99", 5.94" rod)
267 = 3.500" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
283 = 3.875" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
293 = 3.780" x 3.27" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LR4" 4.8 Liter Vortec, 6.278" rod)
302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
305 = 3.740" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
325 = 3.780" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LM7" 5.3 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
346 = 3.900" x 3.622" ('97-later, Gen.III, "LS1", 6.098" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" ('96-'01, Gen. I, Vortec, 5.7" rod)
350 = 3.900" x 3.66" ('89-'95, "LT5", in "ZR1" Corvette 32-valve DOHC, 5.74" rod)
364 = 4.000" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LQ4" 6.0 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor) (5.7" rod)
400 = 4.125" x 3.75" (Gen.I, 5.565" rod)
Two common, non-factory smallblock combinations:
377 = 4.155" x 3.48" (5.7" or 6.00" rod)
400 block and a 350 crank with "spacer" main bearings
383 = 4.030" x 3.76" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank, main bearing crank journals
cut to 350 size
The 400 block is the same size but the two center cylinders are different configuration than the 350 (sistered cylinders) so some parts are not interchangeable.
HemmiGremmi has a 350 for sale in the For Sales. #35 in the For Sales.
Here is also one link to one of the books on Amazon-
The block is the same- Same bore, different stroke, so different crank. The early 327s had a smaller main diameter, but newer matches the dia of the 350. A lot of interesting history and compatability to look at if you are interested.
oops, While I'm typing away, Kevin wrote the appendix to all of the books that I have... WOW! Good data, Kevin.
The engine I mentioned was a running engine I saw it myself its sitting in the southwest corner of his shop looked in good shape to me. The guy who owns the junk yard I trust.
If you are stuck on a 327 and dont care if its not original find a 307 crank and stick it in a 350 block.
I'd try the local engine shops and such. I got my 327 W/ new forged steel crank for $300. At that point it had already been hot tanked and MagnaFluxed. It even still had the origional bore sizing.
Re: Junkyard Motors..
You might want to try what i did, in So. Calif. I advertized I wanted to haul away a 327 engine need not pass smog and as complete as possibe, the first one was a 350 sm journal good short block, the second one the guy wanted $50 for a complete motor large journal less carb pulley and accessories. The third I came accross was a 327 1963 from a still owned corvette with the camel hump heads. long block offenhouser intake no carb pulleys or distrributor. I gave $300 for it and it runs beautiful. I to am new at this stuff and we (my 17 year old) son put it in my frame for my 50 f1 pu and it fired write up and we were two super happey fellows. It is taken shape. Hope to try to drive this truck after 2 1/2 years in a couple of months. Ed ke6bnl
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