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Old 07-26-2008, 01:32 PM
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just before painting ?

I have tried to find the last steps after finish sanding and just before color, I can't find it
After finish sanding with 600 gr. wet, what is used to clean any dust just before bc/cc ?

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Old 07-26-2008, 01:42 PM
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I have only tried base coat clear coat once and i liked the results however I sanded over the base with 600 which your not supposed to do, i didn't know. Your just supposed to lay the clear right over the base. Anyways still came out okay.

i sanded with 100/ 150 grit sprayed primer , sanded that with 400 grit. and that sprayed the Base (sand it after which you dont do) and then the clearcoat.

when you get the paint read the instruction. take a visit to the paint shop. I found it very clear hearing it from them
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Old 07-26-2008, 04:40 PM
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After wet sanding I wash and dry the car well and make sure to get rid of all wetsanding sludge. Even though some say you shouldn't wash with dishwashing soap, and there is a slight possibility it could lead to fisheyes, I haven't had any problems yet in many years of using it. I dry the car with a chamois, and blow out any cracks and seams. I usually do this the day before painting, so majority of water should be evaporated and not have to worry about it dripping out of somewhere in the midst of painting. I also blow and hose down/squeege the floor, the garage well at this point, the day prior to paint, so all the water has evaporated when I paint the next day. The more anal you can be about cleaning, you and the car included as well, the more likely hood of a clean job. When it comes time to spray, Wear a shoot suit, and a hat or spray sock and blow your self off prior as well.
I then tape up the car for paint. If something I am being particular fussy about, I will tape so I can open the doors and decklid, ect, and roll the tape back and shoot some reducer on the edge, lessening any tape lines. They also make aperature tape for jamb areas, that won't leave a hard line. Since I don't have a lot of light in my garage, its also nice for me to tape up so I can roll the car outside the garage door for a good look over of the base when I think is all covered and before clear.

After its taped up, I will wipe the car down with clean toweling and a prepaint cleaner or wax and grease remover. Allow good time to make sure the wax and grease remover has had plenty of time to evaporate, specially when you are dealing with plastics or fiberglass. You can get things ready in the meantime, you paint and stuff to mix up, make sure your gun is operating properly, your compressor is good to go, and your hose is untangled and pulled out, and clean.
I then quickly blow off the car again. Then I tack the car, unwrapping the tack rag, and softly let it pile into a ball in my hand. Tack with a light touch and turn the rag over often while tacking.
Then your finally ready to mix and spray your sealer, base, clear, with proper flash in between, or whatever you plan on shooting the car with. Hopefully the paint gods are on your side that day, and everything goes smooth and without a hitch. Tape, paper, and wax and grease remover are all cheap enough, and not a place to skimp, so use good brands, proper stuff.
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Old 07-26-2008, 06:44 PM
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Wax and grease remover at this point is bad idea


but what do I know?
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Old 07-26-2008, 07:47 PM
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I don't usually wet sand before shooting base, but always clean with W&G remover between sanding and shooting base. When I do wetsand, it will be cleaned with clean water and then with W&G remover.

Aaron
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Old 07-27-2008, 03:03 PM
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I think the wax and grease remover is a toss up, so I understand why Milo posted what he did...

I say this because once you have sanded down the surface and then washed with soap and water as I think most of us do, I dont see a need in using the wax and grease remover unless you have been oily fingering the car..

Wax and grease remover will get into scratches and stay there for a much longer time than on a non sanded surface.. so taking care in making sure it has flashed plenty is where many painters get into trouble..

Is there anything wrong with using it?? Of course not, but is it a must.. again.. Of course not..

One thing I used to do that I have gotten back to doing is this.. Once the car is ready for paint I wipe it all off with just plain water and a clean rag.. Anywhere the water beads or goes around ( meaning something is on the surface sealing it), I will re clean that spot and then continue on.. works like a charm and no chance of adhesion problems etc with not getting all the solvents out from the wax and grease remover..

One last thing.. for plastics, fiberglass, smc etc.. I think you just cant go wrong with Ajax powder cleaner with bleach.. Never once had a fish eye or paint not stick using that stuff.. and while I KNOW IT IS FROWNED UPON BY MOST TO USE A HOUSE HOLD CHEMICAL INSTEAD OF A " body shop product" it has never failed me... Its a trick I learned from a painter who only works on motorcycles ( read plastic city ) etc and the occasional vehicle.. Im my humble opinion its not any different than most of us who use "Dawn" or "Ajax" liquid dish detergent to clean our parts after final sanding before top coat...
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:23 AM
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Thank YOU so very much for the great replies, exactly the information I needed to complete the paint process....Big Smiles..... Great Site this is !!
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BondoKing

One last thing.. for plastics, fiberglass, smc etc.. I think you just cant go wrong with Ajax powder cleaner with bleach..
Instead of the Ajax (or Comet) cleanser, you might want to take a look at "Bon Ami". It is only ground calcium carbonate. It does't have the bleach, perfume oils or dyes that the others have - I will even use it to clean that almost impossible to remove road scum from a windshield .

Dave W
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