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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:28 PM
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Young man, don't be afraid to jump in and rebuild the carb. All of us on this board had to learn how to do this stuff. As you learn different procedures, your confidence will build and you'll tackle tougher stuff.

The first thing you'll want to do ----FOR SURE----is to buy an original factory service manual. Most aftermarket manuals are junk, so buy only the original factory publication. It will show you step by step how to rebuild the carburetor and adjust it for best performance.
1972 Buick Repair Shop Manual Original GS/Skylark/Riviera/LeSabre

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Old 11-13-2012, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Young man, don't be afraid to jump in and rebuild the carb. All of us on this board had to learn how to do this stuff. As you learn different procedures, your confidence will build and you'll tackle tougher stuff.

The first thing you'll want to do ----FOR SURE----is to buy an original factory service manual. Most aftermarket manuals are junk, so buy only the original factory publication. It will show you step by step how to rebuild the carburetor and adjust it for best performance.
1972 Buick Repair Shop Manual Original GS/Skylark/Riviera/LeSabre
Guess ill just rebuild the carb. Haha Im just skeptical about all the small parts and fine tuning when rebuilding one. Im probably being over dramatic though. Anything else you would reccomend doing since im gonna rebuild the carb?
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmy-Boy View Post
Guess ill just rebuild the carb. Haha Im just skeptical about all the small parts and fine tuning when rebuilding one. Im probably being over dramatic though. Anything else you would reccomend doing since im gonna rebuild the carb?
An upgrade I would consider, after you learn all the systems in your car and how they work, would be to replace your points distributor with an HEI from a '75 to '85 GM car or truck. Points and condensers have been used successfully on every type of conveyance since Kettering introduced them early in the 20th century, but progress marches on and the High Energy Ignition system introduced by GM in the summer of 1974 is a far better system for firing the spark plugs. It has an integral ignition coil and can produce a far stronger spark than the stock points system with a divorced coil, so that a wider gap can be used on the spark plugs. Maintenance is easier also, with no points to adjust or condenser to replace.

First though, I would learn the complete systems of my new car, including how the points distributor works and how to service and tune it.

Remember this.....a carburetor does not need high pressure to operate, so be careful if you have to replace the fuel pump. If the needle and seat "see" more than about 5-6 psi of fuel pressure, they will unseat and allow the pump to blow raw fuel into the intake manifold, creating a tuning nightmare that you may never find. A Carter "Muscle Car" pump will be the best replacement if your pump fails. Carburetors are not like fuel injection, more fuel pressure will not make more hp.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
An upgrade I would consider, after you learn all the systems in your car and how they work, would be to replace your points distributor with an HEI from a '75 to '85 GM car or truck. Points and condensers have been used successfully on every type of conveyance since Kettering introduced them early in the 20th century, but progress marches on and the High Energy Ignition system introduced by GM in the summer of 1974 is a far better system for firing the spark plugs. It has an integral ignition coil and can produce a far stronger spark than the stock points system with a divorced coil, so that a wider gap can be used on the spark plugs. Maintenance is easier also, with no points to adjust or condenser to replace.

First though, I would learn the complete systems of my new car, including how the points distributor works and how to service and tune it.

Remember this.....a carburetor does not need high pressure to operate, so be careful if you have to replace the fuel pump. If the needle and seat "see" more than about 5-6 psi of fuel pressure, they will unseat and allow the pump to blow raw fuel into the intake manifold, creating a tuning nightmare that you may never find. A Carter "Muscle Car" pump will be the best replacement if your pump fails. Carburetors are not like fuel injection, more fuel pressure will not make more hp.
How do you adjust the fuel pump pressure level? Are there instructional videos or anything like that you know of? I found out from the previous owner that the cars "bogging" problem was way worse before he had the carb rebuilt a year ago. He said after he had it rebuilt the boggi g was a lot less dramatic but its still a serious issue
So im really curious as to what the problem is here. Is it a bad fuel pump? Maybe the fuel line is clogged somewhere?
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:57 PM
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When I rebuild a carb, I dissasemble it on the bench. I put down a big clean shop towel, and as I remove parts I lay them to the side , when I get to small parts, I lay them on the shop towel as they wont roll away, and it keeps them plainly in site...helping not to lose them.

I would also say to rebuil the carb yourself. The Kits come with step by step instructions.
Bogging sounds more like fuel starvation to me, also sounds like it does OK when you feather down on the gas, so I would start at the carb.
Fuel delivery could be an issue, so you might want to check fuel pressure as well.
A gauge like this and a few fitting to do the job are relatively inexpensive
Harbor freight sells them ( I hate harbor freight) but this one is good. It will also help you adjust the carb and do other diagnostics on your engine. Quite possibly the best 15 bucks youll ever spend on a tool.

item number 93547 at HF
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 05:31 PM
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If some one else hasn't mentioned it get a new air cleaner and PCV valve. Good luck with the Buick.

latech, I've been looking for a vacuum gauge this one looks like it's the one to get!

bt

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 05:33 PM
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dang, the car looks to be in great shape. what a nice one to start with. looks like just a few repais and your on the road in a classic.good find.you'll do well, looks like you caught the bug. hahaha, warnin,,,it dont go away. hahaha...these guys will help you out. just be patient and stay with em.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:36 PM
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If I remember correct,the accelerator pump rocker arm,wears and creates a small gap.the hesitation is caused by the carb not giving a shot of fuel instantly.seems it can be fixed with a position change,

Help tech,explain what Im trying to say here
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
If I remember correct,the accelerator pump rocker arm,wears and creates a small gap.the hesitation is caused by the carb not giving a shot of fuel instantly.seems it can be fixed with a position change,

Help tech,explain what Im trying to say here
Yeah Im gonna need a little better explanation haha Im not very familiar with Carbs yet.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:57 PM
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Anyone know where i could get a rebuild kit for the Rochester 2bbl?
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:08 PM
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Here are some more pics of the skylark :-)
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:05 PM
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Here are some more pics of the skylark :-)
Holy Sht batman! That car is gorgeous.,.....nice score.....wanna come to the great white north and trade for a lumpy yellow vette? Lol
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:37 PM
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Gorgeous car. Very, very cool. It seems all the conversation related to bog has been surrounding the carburetor. That may very well be correct. But if the P.O. had it rebuilt, and the problem persists, I think I'd take a look at the ignition timing. Before you invest in a kit, investigate the accelerator pump linkage for clearance as noted above, then pick up a timing light and see if the timing curve is correct. I know you're new to all this, but when the time comes we can all help with the timing investigation. Again, you have scored big, both with the car, and with finding the best car community on the net.

PayM
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:46 PM
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Gorgeous car. Very, very cool. It seems all the conversation related to bog has been surrounding the carburetor. That may very well be correct. But if the P.O. had it rebuilt, and the problem persists, I think I'd take a look at the ignition timing. Before you invest in a kit, investigate the accelerator pump linkage for clearance as noted above, then pick up a timing light and see if the timing curve is correct. I know you're new to all this, but when the time comes we can all help with the timing investigation. Again, you have scored big, both with the car, and with finding the best car community on the net.

PayM
Can I find a timing light at auto zone? Or O'Reillys? It seems like there soooo many different things that could be causing this.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:07 PM
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Shouldn't be a problem to find a timing light at any parts store...shop around a bit, the cheapest price isn't always the best deal.
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