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Old 07-12-2010, 02:00 PM
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just bought a consew 226: initial testing? manuals? etc

just bought an old consew 226. really intended just to go look at it, but seller dropped price (without my asking) to what I had in my wallet, which I'd intended was to be just a binder, in case I liked it. I've posted over 200 huge images of it here http://machines.freehostingcloud.com...w_226_day_one/

we can refer to this machine as "the 70 bucker". sold to me as "working and sewing, but with minor problem" (seller actually demonstrated it & problem for me). seems to sew OK (both top and bottom) however when trying to lift the top presser in order to pull out the work, the top thread breaks (before it can be cut off w/scissors). however, seller was using 'mixed thread': different thread on the bobbin from what he was using on the top. so I guess my -first- order of business should be obtaining some thread, and possibly needles, for test purposes, and winding my own (have only two) bobbins...and using -alike- thread top and bobbin.

I use free hosts - sometimes they load slowly; here's an alternate link to my consew site http://machines.pinghoster.net/consew_226_day_one/

with my own sewing tests, I can confirm what problem, or problems, my consew -does- have (if any)...I have an ocean of old slipcover here, roughly denim thickness...I'll lube it first. think I should get some left-twist bonded polyester size 92, but unclear what size needle to use. I do have some 135x17 needles, some in size 100/16, and some 140/22 size, neither of which might be correct for 92 thread http://machines.freehostingcloud.com.../photo215.html
http://machines.freehostingcloud.com.../photo216.html

is there some trick way to wind bobbins on my machine -without- having the machine spinning? like, can I make my consew 'freewheel' while I wind 'em? I realize bobbins are ordinarily wound 'while work is in progress'...

after hours of search (over days) I've been unable to find any factory repair manuals (or even 'owners') manuals specific to MY machine, in any format. other than 'repair' manuals on ebay 'of seemingly dubious distinction', with no example pages shown, etc some seem "pretty close" (eg: manuals for slightly different consew model numbers, OR for different brand machines (eg: the juki LU-563, and singer 111W155). I even sent an e-mail to consew, and the manual they sent me "the only one we can offer you" covers the 224, 224R-1, 225, 226R-1. so, OK, I'm pretty sure there's differences between model numbers, so which one's 'closest' to mine and how does it vary from mine? wow, complexities

for further bafflement, I understand my machine (and numerous others, like the juki LU-563, etc) are all essentially 'clones' of the singer 111W155. but how close a clone IS mine, really? I need some screws for it, amongst other things: did the singer use metric screws? or US thread sizes? or do they -all- (all the 111W clones) just use some 'proprietary and weird' thread sizes, not found elsewhere? I tried my metrics bin -and- small USA sizes bins, and couldn't find anything that matched the threads...so, uphill, here we go :-/

anybody know where I can get an owners manual (and/or better yet a 'factory repair' manual) for the consew 226? the tag on the front of my machine identifies it as 'just a plain jane' 226, not an 226R, 226R-1, or 226R-2. http://machines.freehostingcloud.com...s/photo27.html though my machine -does- do reverse...with the paddle on the right.

is there any way to tell how old my machine is http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse.../photo121.html. or, anybody know when the 226 (or the singer 111W155, for that matter) -first- started being made? per some of dan's posts, I'd guess it possible mine could be at least 45 yrs old...so, they started being made prior to 1955?

I've cleaned up my machine a bit since these photos were taken...http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse.../photo137.html

even more bizarre: is this thing a consew part, or a sardine can opener from the 1960's? http://machines.freehostingcloud.com.../photo213.html seriously, it came with my machine, with the spare "feet" I got with it...

*thanks* you guys :-)

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Old 07-12-2010, 10:29 PM
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I'm no expert - but I can tell you how I straightened out my 111W153. Some might disagree with my techniques nut it did work. The machine has worked like a charm for about 6 months now.

First thing I noticed was years of grease and grime built up in it. I removed the bobbin case and tensioner and then put it in my sink and shot it up with degreaser. Can't remember exactly what I used but it may have been something like Lestoil. I watched as years of gunk came flying out of the machine. I took a small bruch and cleaned inside by going here, there and everywhere while opening up the access panels. I let the head drip dry for a while and then used my hair drier to dry it out. After doing this, I was amazed to how smoothly the head unit now turned. I took the tension adjuster apart as well and soake it in degreaser for about 2 minutes. Again, I let it dry for a few minutes on the drain board and got my hair drier out again. Next was the bobbin case - I th9ought to myself, "Who knows how many times this thing has been in and out of this machine or what else ever happened to it?" So I replaces it with a new one for 40 bucks. Once it was all put together I oiled the machine at all the oiling points. The machine has worked like a charm since then.

Take a look at this site called thethreadexchange.com It will tell you what needle to use with each thread size.

And yo uwere right in thinking that two different size threads will cause you trouble. I found out the hard was as well. Whatever is on top should be on bottom as well.
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Old 07-13-2010, 06:54 AM
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Here is a manual that will help you. CLICK HERE The 255 is the next generation after the 226. There are a lot of things that are the same, but the size of the bobbin and the knob to adjust stitch length are different. There is no way that the machine will "freewheel" while it winds a bobbin. The way to do it without winding while sewing is to remove the thread from the needle and all the way past the thread takeup lever so the machine isn't trying to stitch.

If the thread is breaking when you remove the work, you are probably not releasing the lower tension disks far enough, or the rod that releases them is worn down and can't release the disks. Use the foot lift lever on the back of the machine to raise the foot completely, and you should see the disks open. If they don't, the rod that opens them needs to be replaced. This is not a tough repair, and you can do it yourself. Let me know if that's the problem, and I can show you how to do it.

The Consew 226 is almost exactly the same as a Singer 111W, right down to the screws. A lot of things are interchangeable. They use the same feet, bobbin cases, bobbins, needles, and tension amongst other things.

There is no way of dating a Singer sewing machine without knowing the serial number. If you have the serial number, I can tell you how old a machine is. Consew does not have records of the production dates of it's machines. I know this because I called them and asked.

The two needles you have are size 16 and size 22 and both will sew size 92 thread just fine. If the thread you are using will comfortably go through the eye of the needle, it will work.

There are very minor differences between the 226 R and the R-1. Only Consew can tell you exactly what they are. It's like the difference between a 1980 and a 1981 Camaro.......mostly cosmetic differences.

Parts for your machine, including screws, are readily available, you just need to go to a sewing machine repair shop that services industrial sewing machines, or an on line site that sells sewing machine parts. Here is one place: CLICK HERE
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coodeville
I'm no expert...
thanks coode, for your help :-)

since posting, I've cleaned out my machine (under entire bottom, behind needle plate end-cover, and under top cover by balance wheel) as best I can. I used 'various' methods: toothpicks, q-tips, dental picks, small hook-shaped pieces of wire, leaf blower, pipe cleaners, tweezers, #11 xacto knife, vacuum cleaner (with old soda straws and copper tubing as crevice tools), long super-narrow strips of torn-up tee-shirt, #2 diesel/kero on a tiny stiff paintbrush, and, finally, (the non-advised) compressed air.

I still don't have the thread for testing (and haven't oiled my machine yet), *however*, I made two major discoveries here yesterday (which I think may've caused the top thread in my machine to break on 'demo day one'):

1. the seller TOLD me how to thread the machine, and proceeded to thread it while I watched. turns out he installed (at least the top thread) WRONG (per images found on this site). -then- he demonstrated the machine, and the 'thread breaking on removal' bit. since then I've been -very- careful to leave the top thread "just like he put on there", so, that's how it is on all the shots on my consew site (threaded wrong, it turns out). he threaded this 'top holy mini-flatbar' part in a sort of 'spiral barber-pole' style, and not 'simple up and down across'

also

2. looking closely, I think I have either a piece of wool felt (or some similar substance) MISSING in this "flat chrome hook" close to my needle (maybe that felt provides some sort of 'shock-absorbing' or 'thread flow smoothing/light drag" function). well, I don't have it, my hook's 'just plain metal' ...





re the bobbin case: like you, I would've "liked to" remove my bobbin case, and in fact I tried to get it out of there, lifting it with my fingernail, then tiny wires, then lifting again more with tiny wires at the same time I twisted and jiggled/clockwise and c'clockwise, wiggling and lifting, all to no avail - wouldn't come up, no matter what i did. did this all with the wound bobbin already OUT of the bobbin case, of course. I'd still -would- like to remove my bobbin case, matter of fact (for exam, cleaning, lube, 'drag on thread' test and possible adjusting) but, according to 'most' diagrams I've seen for it (or, put it THIS way: what I *think* are the 'probable best' bobbin case images for "my" machine, seeing as I have NO drawings of a 226), it seems *my* particular bobbin CASE has a "lower protruding long stud" or integral driveshaft part that goes -through- a lower helical gear (which gear, I'm guessing is 'timed to' another shaft or two), so, I haven't attempted that ... yet. I'm still looking into this situation....

while digging around under internet rocks and back alleys, I found chapter four of this ("unlikely titled" and seemingly -totally- unrelated) air force training manual pdf

http://www.combatindex.com/store/NRT...entman_1-C.pdf

covers repair and -timing- of "most parts of" the singer 111W155, consew 225 etc, and I'm assuming (or more correctly) *hoping* my machine as well, what with mine being a consew 226, not a 225.... and, yeah, like my posts, this manual is wordy "and not an easy read", but I think probably all the major (111W155, & clones) machine timing steps are in there... :-)

still looking for an operators/owners manual or better yet 'repairs'/troubleshooting/service manual' for my 'base plain-jane' consew model 226

thanks again :-)

ps-99% composed offline/posted, more & thanks to dan soon/thanks :-)
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:09 PM
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Your posts are next to impossible to follow. The "barber pole" method is totally wrong. It is threaded in a simple up and down. The wool felt is there to hold a small amount of oil to lubricate the thread, it is not a shock absorber.

You need to remove 2 tiny screws to remove the flat curved retainer that holds the bobbin in place. The bobbin case does not lift out until the retainer is removed. You should also remove the throat plate, which has a notch to hold the tab on the bobbin case. It can be removed without removing the throat plate, but unless you know what you're doing it is really hard to put it back in.

You are going to be very disappointed in the instruction manual for the 226, it is very basic and won't answer 90% of your questions. It covers the 224, 225, and 226.

Here are pictures of the bobbin case installed, and the bobbin case removed. If you're going to attempt this, be very careful not to drop those tiny screws, or I guarantee you will lose them. Even worse, if you drop them in the wrong place you can jam your machine up so bad that it won't work. If your hook is moving freely around your bobbin case, it doesn't need to come out, it only needs to have some sewing machine oil dropped in next to the side if the case. Do not use anything other than sewing machine oil. Regular oil will stain fabric.

Here's the link to the manual: CLICK HERE

BTW, I just noticed that your machine is not threaded correctly through the eye in the thread takeup lever either. The thread should go through right to left, not left to right.

Also, timing the machine is nothing more than getting the hook to pass the scarf in the needle at the correct time to pick up the thread. Adjusting the needle bar up or down accomplishes this task.
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Old 07-14-2010, 04:14 PM
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thanks dan/removed and dismantled my tensioner

[QUOTE=DanTwoLakes]Here is a manual that will help you.{/QUOTE]
link saved, manual downloaded, thanks :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
There is no way that the machine will "freewheel" while it winds a bobbin...
I'm thinkin' about getting a 2nd bobbin winder, or movin' this one...thanks dan

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
If the thread is breaking when you remove the work, you are probably not releasing the lower tension disks far enough...
well, thank you for your help dan, it's very much appreciated.

yesterday, I removed and dismantled my tensioner "for inspection". I looked at the 'pins', both the big one behind the tensioner, (in the side of the main casting), AND the super-tiny one -inside- the tensioner itself.

the (big) pin seems OK. it moves in and out the side of the sewing machine when I raise or lower the presser foot, but it sure doesn't 'travel real far'. not sure how far it's *supposed* to move, but on MINE it's roughly 45 thousandths *total* travel, give or take a thou. that normal?
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo44.htmlinterestingly, I touched it with a magnetic screwdriver by mistake, and it seemed to slide straight OUT the side of the machine 'readily'. guess I slid it out (by mistake) about 2.5 inches. not wanting to 'open another can of worms' I slid it back in....

judging from how the tensioner spring looks on mine (image above), my spring has a piece of it MISSING, compared to this one
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo45.html
I'm sure it'd be 'better' if my spring was complete, and I do plan to replace it, but for initial test purposes, do I need to worry about the missing spring loop?


while I was at the sellers place, he was "messing with" the tensioner, trying to somehow repair it, I think, so he decided to "ping" (intentionally deform) the tiny center crossbar on the third piece from the left here. I'm not sure why...
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo56.html

so now instead of that tiny crossbar being "flat across", it's got a slight bend in it, like you can see here
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo57.html


or see here:
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo88.html

this "chrome Y-shaped" part of the tensioner I'm totally unsure about, too. mine seems like it has more bends in it than a pretzel. first there's the 2 bends where the screwholes are, one per screwhole, one bent more than the other. maybe they're 'supposed- to be there? I have no clue...
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo86.html


also, the "chrome Y" part of the tensioner had this bizarre aluminum wire under one of the screws (either it's a piece of wire, or part of a tiny chain link - I'm not sure what it is, or what purpose it's supposed to have there). the seller may've been using it as some sort of "bizarre washer" or spacer, for all I know...it's in the lower right of this image
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo47.html

you can see better closeups of it here
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo71.html

and an even tighter closeup of it here:
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo83.html

and this super-tiny little pin (part of the tensioner) moves freely in its bore as well
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo85.html

the tiny pin moves inside the head of the "slotted and threaded post" of the main tensioner body. matter of fact, when I push it (with the flat side of a paring knife blade) it moves -easily- from 'all the way seated' to 'totally extended' (til it hits the chrome Y-plate part, when the Y-plate is "already spread away from it" with my finger, I mean)
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...s/photo78.html

and maybe THIS wavy bend (top left) in the "chrome Y" part of the tensioner is supposed to be there, but maybe not (me have no clue)
http://machines.freehostingcloud.com...s/photo65.html

bonus image: when I got the machine, it was fairly "gunked up", like this:
http://machines.pinghoster.net/conse...os/photo1.html

for the perpetually curious, top of consew site2
http://machines.freehostingcloud.com/consew_226_batch2/

and alternate top of consew site2 (same exact site/different host)
http://machines.pinghoster.net/consew_226_batch2/
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Old 07-14-2010, 10:17 PM
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The rod behind the tension just sits there and is moved forward when the knee lift is used or the foot lift lever is raised to open the tension disks. It only opens the disks enough to let the thread slide through the tension assembly with no resistance. It is not attached to anything and will come right out completely if the tension is not there. After years of use, the rod wears down and gets shorter. You can replace it with any piece of rod slightly longer than what's there now, or you can buy a new one.

The whole tension device is common to many of the Singer 111W clones and is available for sale. It would be a good idea if you got a new one. For $14 you can't go wrong. CLICK HERE

How would another bobbin winder help you unless you have a way to power it separate from the sewing machine?

BTW, the easiest way to clean out your machine is with an air nozzle. In a factory setting, they are blown out at the end of the day.

The "chrome Y plate" mounts behind the tension and is what the tension release rod engages. It is supposed to look just like it does.
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
...<snip much helpful stuff here>

The "chrome Y plate" mounts behind the tension and is what the tension release rod engages. It is supposed to look just like it does.
thanks *very* much for your help, and all the great pointers, dan. I've noticed your machine is a "a good bit cleaner" than mine. mine seems to have considerably more varnish buildup. I've cleaned mine a little since these 2 pix, but, the varnish is 'pretty tough stuff'; even acetone on Q-tips doesn't seem to make a dent in it...

thanks again sir
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by machines
thanks *very* much for your help, and all the great pointers, dan. I've noticed your machine is a "a good bit cleaner" than mine. mine seems to have considerably more varnish buildup. I've cleaned mine a little since these 2 pix, but, the varnish is 'pretty tough stuff'; even acetone on Q-tips doesn't seem to make a dent in it...

thanks again sir
I used Lestoil to clean mine. Some might not agree with my ways though
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:48 AM
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thanks much dan and coode :-)

well, my new thread arrived. yesterday I "freed up", cleaned and oiled my (seemingly never been lubed, "bone dry") bobbin winder (shafts and pivots) and cleaned up my 2 bobbins :-). still need to oil the machine, though - trying to decipher my (foggy, dark, out of focus) 'oiling diagrams' now....

meanwhile, when I actually use my bobbin winder, where the tension disks are, is the thread supposed to ride "down in there and BETWEEN" the two tension disks (past the bottom of the "vee" where the two halves meet)

OR is it supposed to actually ride "at" the bottom of the vee, where the two halves meet, like a v-belt in a pulley?

and are the two tensioner 'tiny hubcap halves' supposed to be a "failrly snug" non-wiggly fit on their shaft? becasue mine seem to have center holes that're -roughly- 50 thousandths OVER their shaft size...

"real world" question: when you guys use YOUR bobbin winder, do the two halves of your tension disks (on the winder) SPIN? if they spin, do they spin non-stop, sometimes, or "pretty much stay still" while you're winding?

still gotta lube the machine...and there's 'more than a few' felts missing, I think...under the bobbin case, for one

next I'm probably gonna remove my lower bobbin CASE "for a look-see" and lube there etc

1. how's a guy determine if his bobbin case IS worn? where's it get worn? where the thread exits, under the tension spring? any other place? what type of wear should I look for and/or hope NOT to see?

2. is there a recommended procedure to BEST set the bobbin case TENSION? because the screws that hold it in are 'near microscopic' and it's a hassle to remove/reinstall, is there like a BEST way to adjust bobbin CASE tension *OTHER*THAN* "repeated trial and error" attempts?

while my bobbin case is 'out' of the machine, can I scotch-tape a piece of paper over the 'open' side of the bobbin case (with a wound bobbin in it) then use the 'sharp jerk on the yoo-yoo thread to test the bobbin tension' method?

according to what I've read so far, there's supposed to be some sort of felt 'sheet' (oil wick? oil pad?), under my bobbin case (I assume it should 'stick out past' the edge of the bobbin case, so oil can be dripped onto it). well, it's NOT there, on my machine. so the (missing) felt under my bobbin case should "look like" what? it's supposed to have a hole for a 'driveshaft' through it?

that felt sheet there is HOW THICK?

what GREASE do you guys use on your lower (helical) GEARS? c'mon, confess.



re the two lower "forks" on the bottom shaft: do you guys use OIL (on the felts) or (if you're MISSING the 'fork felts') do you use GREASE in between/inside the fork surfaces, where the eccentric (or cam?) rides?

thread lube: how IMPORTANT is it to use it?

thanks again, you guys
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:45 AM
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I do not grease anything, I only use sewing machine oil. If you get grease on whatever you're sewing it will stain it, where the sewing machine oil won't.

The thread in the bobbin winder will get pulled down to the center of the two tension disks, no matter what you do. The disks should not spin or move at all when winding a bobbin.

There is no felt under the bobbin case. The bobbin case rests in the hook assembly and is metal to metal contact. You don't need to take the bobbin case out unless it has thread under it that is jamming it up. Just drop a couple drops of oil in next to the case.

A bobbin case is worn when the tension on it no longer works like it should, or if it is damaged in some way. You can replace just the spring steel tension. If it is stitching O.K., and you can still adjust the tension spring, it's probably O.K., but for the price of a new one and the age and condition of your machine, I'd buy a new one.

Bobbin case tension is just a function of how tight or loose the top thread tension is, and it is basically nothing more than trial and error matching it to the top thread tension. The top thread tension is matched to whatever fabric, leather, vinyl, etc. that you're sewing together. Thinner fabric or thicker fabric will need slightly different tensions. There is no table or specification check sheet to determine top tension, it is dependent on how the machine is stitching through whatever you're sewing.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:35 PM
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thanks again, dan, you're the greatest :-)

so, still got 'felt chunks' in both your lower forks? on mine, it was 'dern hard to tell' my felt chunk in the left hook WAS felt (I assumed, on 1st looking, it was just another huge chunk of thread dust and swarf packed down in it).

wow, buying a new bobbin case AND a new tensioner will nearly -double- the purchase price of 'the 70 bucker' dan still, though, it might be doable...(and I'm -sure- it's excellent advice)

thanks again, dan
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:48 AM
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Here are pictures of the bottom of my machine. There are no "felts" that I can see. I think what you have is a build-up of fabric dust. Blow it out with an air nozzle.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2010, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
Here are pictures of the bottom of my machine. There are no "felts" that I can see. I think what you have is a build-up of fabric dust. Blow it out with an air nozzle.
Beautiful!

The best thing i ever did to my 111W was change the bobbin case
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:55 AM
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problems with consew 226

Hi I see this posts are several yrs. old wondering if you might still reply to a almost 20 yr. owner of a consew machine. Love them...real workhorses..but having problems with mine lately. oiled, cleaned put in new needle,,,everything I could think of... stitches fine top and bottom but as soon as I try to sew a piece of welting, that is, cotton rope between fabric, such as you see on cushions, etc,. Soon as I try that the machine starts skipping stitches- many stitches, then usually the thread breaks,. Notice too that just before it breaks it seems that something is splitting the thread pushing part of it back up the needle. Of course it breaks right after that. Any suggestions??? Thanks so much.
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