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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2010, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam83
I found a number behind the #8 cylinder on the block. it is large and it says 9790071. And on the front of the engine, to the top left of the timing cover is another number, but it is very hard to read. I think it says 22_181 WT. I haven't got to get the number by the distributor yet, but according to the year one pontiac casting numbers web page, I think this is a 1968 400cid with 360hp. I dont know yet if this motor came from a gto though.. Are my assumptions right?
The 9790071 is the casting number for a non ram air '68 400 block. The number at the front of the right cylinder bank is just a sequential number
and means nothing useful, however the WT tells a lot about what the engine was. In '68 a WT was a 350HP 400 used in an A body (Tempest & GTO) with a manual transmission. It would have had an 067 cam and used 10.75:1 #16 heads.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 01:55 AM
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Ok, so I've figured out the fender tag. It was a Primavera Beige paint with a black vinyl top. It was made in Baltimore. I'm a little confused by the 23 on my tag, cause 223 means black interior w/buckets, and 235 means black interior w/bench seat...
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lust4speed
Both valve trains adjust exactly the same way. A competent local shop won't have a problem.
They will if they do that. Pontiac rockers get torqued all the way down.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
They will if they do that. Pontiac rockers get torqued all the way down.
So true!! Stock Pontiacs like the OP's have "bottleneck" studs and are "net lash"- the rocker nut is torqued down to 20-25 ft/lb and that's it. The geometry and lifter preload is dependant on the pushrods being the right length, w/no adjustability for lifter preload.

Back to Adam's GTO- I think it's great that you plan on keeping it Pontiac powered. Too many good muscle era cars get bastardized w/SB or BBC engines that- IMO- take away the soul of the car.

Get the old engine out and see what's up- just like you planned.

Once you have an idea of what the damage is to your engine, the decisions can be made for dealing w/them. Could be anything from turning the original crank (unlikely) to replacing it w/a rotator to make it into a 400-based 455- which is a killer combo, especially when mated to good heads. In any event, despite there being a lot of idiosyncrasies to a Pontiac engine, there is not ONE THING that we can't walk you through right here on this forum.


In the meantime, here are a few sources for info:

Butler- http://www.jbp-pontiac.com/

Kens- http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...chineshop.html

Nunzi- http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/

Rock & Roll Engineering- http://pontiacpower.com/

SD Performance- http://www.sdperformance.com/


Miscellaneous:

Jim Hand “BUILDING A STRONG STREET MACHINE”@ Classic Firebird
http://www.classicfirebird.com/hand/hand.html

Jim Hand’s 474 2002 updated specs http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....455jh2006.html

Pontiac Street Performance Featured Cars & Engines
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....turedcars.html

Pontiac Street Performance Tech Articles
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....harticles.html

Hand’s 455 w/#64 heads
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....ld455jh99.html

Hand on Cams
http://www.dapa.org/jhpages/pontiac-cams.htm’

Hand on ROCKER RATIOS/MODS
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....ockerArms.html

HP PONT. Smog Head Performance
A Technical Comparison of Pontiac's Most Common '70s Cylinder Heads
June 01, 2005

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...nce/index.html

HP PONT Tech Articles, Various Pontiac
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...les/index.html


Pontiac Magazines On The Web:

http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/

And there are other sites, forums and mags, you can do a search on google for them. Most all have tech sections w/articles, etc.

Verify everything- including my info. Pontiac lore is flat ATE UP w/bad or misleading and/or incomplete information.

Good luck
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 08:54 AM
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Sounds like you got the original engine in it. I would do everything to rebuild the original block. I realize your itching to drive the car but taking the time to keep it original will net you double what you put in it. There's a lot of guy's on here that have put years into their cars before being able to drive them
but it's worth it in the end. Rome wasn't built in a day so they say, so take your time and do it right. First thing I would do is find a nice dry place to keep it out of the weather.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:04 AM
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My roomate has graciously given up her side of the garage Ive got everything disconnected except the headers, tranny and motor mounts.


Do I need to take the carb and intake off to hook up the hoist? It looked like there was a couple bolt holes maybe on the intake that I could use.. Do I need to unbolt the headers from the heads to get the engine out or can I leave them attached?

So far I removed fuel lines, steering fluid lines, electrical wires, vacuum lines, water temp sensor, heater hoses, radiator and fan shrouds. I have written down every step and drawn pictures. I find this helps on the re-assembly (I took out the engine and tranny on an 88 toyota once.)
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:12 AM
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I'd probably remove the carb, the intake can stay. Headers will make pulling it harder, might be easiest to unbolt them.

I've used a tight chain and a choked up hook on my hoist and pulled/installed engines w/o removing the hood. You might not be able, so if you do remove the hood, be sure to use a sharpie to outline the hinge to hood position for reassembly.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 10:54 AM
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A quick trip to the wrecking yard will net you two ears that bolt to the intake that the factory used to install the engine. Might take two engins to get them because most of the time they only leave one. Once you see them, you'll know what they look like. After you use them, stick them somewhere you can find them again (LOL) for the next time you need to pull an engine.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I'd probably remove the carb, the intake can stay. Headers will make pulling it harder, might be easiest to unbolt them.

I've used a tight chain and a choked up hook on my hoist and pulled/installed engines w/o removing the hood. You might not be able, so if you do remove the hood, be sure to use a sharpie to outline the hinge to hood position for reassembly.

I just got the load leveler in the mail from summit. 29 bucks I had too. Do I attach the chains to the bolt holes on top of the intake manifold or do I use the bolts that secure the intake to the heads
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam83
I just got the load leveler in the mail from summit. 29 bucks I had too. Do I attach the chains to the bolt holes on top of the intake manifold or do I use the bolts that secure the intake to the heads
If it is the G1021, use the manifold to head bolt holes.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 07:32 PM
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Use the corner intake to head bolts. You will probably need to get longer bolts with washers to account for the thickness of the chain loop and prevent the chain loop from pulling over the head. The load leveler makes things a bunch easier.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 08:33 PM
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His leveler is probably THIS, based on the cost. It uses metal brackets to secure to the engine.

There still may be need for longer bolts- if the leveler is used w/the intake in place, because the brackets may not sit flush to the intake. If the intake is removed, stock length bolts will be too long to tighten down flush.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
His leveler is probably THIS, based on the cost. It uses metal brackets to secure to the engine.

There still may be need for longer bolts- if the leveler is used w/the intake in place, because the brackets may not sit flush to the intake. If the intake is removed, stock length bolts will be too long to tighten down flush.

It is exactly that. I'll hook it up tomorrow and see where I'm at with the bolts
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:41 PM
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I would suggest removing the intake unless there's a good reason not to. It's a little more work bending over the fenders, but in the end, it will make the removal of the engine easier from the standpoint of things possibly being in the way. Label the lines and hoses, make drawings, photos, take notes- if you plan on this taking awhile- your memory will not be enough . Put paper towels or rags into the ports, the valley cover will keep the cam/lifters clean for now. 1" long, 3/8-16 thread bolts will work fine for holding the leveler brackets.

I would at least remove the carb. Bolt length will depend- as was mentioned above- if the manifold is left on.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:42 PM
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I use the bolt holes available on the front and back of the head to attach the chains. This allows the chains to drop directly down and hook to the engine, and also allows the bolts to be positioned in a straight shear position instead of pulling on the manifold holes at a 45° angle. Using the manifold bolt holes gets the chain connection points very close together.

Two things to watch for regardless: Don't hit or pinch the distributor cap while positioning the chains and leveler, and disconnect the ground strap from the rear passenger side of the head.
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