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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 01:01 PM
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I removed the plugs, and tightened the bolt. The engine felt stiff, like smoething was gonna break if I pulled any harder (i had a long cheater bar on the breaker bar, so it was really being torqued.) I ended up chargring the battery, and after about 30 times of only turning the wheel about 1 centimeter, the starter got the engine to loosen up. The engine wasnt making any bad noises (like something grinding or more damage being done). I got the bolts out, now I am trying to take the engine out.

The motor mounts.. I took out the long bolt in each motor mount. Is that all they need? Or do I have to unbolt them from the motor?

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam83
The motor mounts.. I took out the long bolt in each motor mount. Is that all they need? Or do I have to unbolt them from the motor?
The long bolt is all that you need to remove on the mounts, but double check that you have everything disconnected from the engine that is connected to the car. (ground wires, vacuum lines, wiring, etc.)
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 04:42 PM
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Being this is obviously your first time, you need a good friend with experience to help you, period. The job will be much easier with a friend to help just for the reason that mistakes can be avoided with your replacement or re-build that you plan on. I can say that walking you through the whole ordeal will be just a little difficult post by post and this thread will probably go on for about 15 pages for sure. If you can't get someone, at least get a book like at AZ or Advance on your car that will cover R&R and re-building your engine that you can refer to during your project and a wealth of info will be at hand instead of having to run to the computer constantly.
We will help with all answers you ask but it's going to be a long process. It has to be done right or the engine won't last long in your new GTO.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 01:01 PM
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Yes, it is a long process, I am taking my time, talking to people, taking notes, drawing pictures, researching parts. I have hooked up with my friend's dad who is a pontiac guy. He is going to sell me a rebuilt 72 gto motor that he had in his 65 gto. He put about 2k miles on it, and replaced it with a 455 with a nice pair of rebuilt 6x heads. The motor was rebuilt stock, crank was turned, new rod/main bearings, etc. The new cam is not stock, a tad wild, and we are putting new springs and rockers in the heads. This motor should be fun and last a long time, and gradually I will put together parts for the rebuild of my engine, bottom end first. So far, it looks like I will be ordering a balanced rotating assembly from Butler. The machine work I'll get done locally, and the assembly is something which I really want to do myself, but I know I will need guidance and help., especially because I dont want to ruin all those expensive parts.

Now, I have dissassembled the current 400 down to the short block. The heads have no obvious damamge or unusual wear. The rotating assembly is pretty much siezed up, it will turn a little if you put heavy heavy force on it. The pistons are all good, no breaks or cracks, tops are pretty black but nothing too unusual. The cylinders have no visible damage, and are pretty smooth, the ridge at the tops are not bad, barely a ridge there. No visible damage to any of the rods, crank looks good too. I have removed 1 rod cap, and the bearing was pretty shot, but not enough to seize it up. We are thinking that the problem is in the bearings though, and I will find out in a few days when I dissasemble the short block.

however, the block most likely came with these #16 heads. Both the block and the heads have the date code of K037; Novemeber 3rd, 1967.

The engine code is a WT and the number is 9790071, so it is definitely a 4 speed GTO motor from either a 68 or a 69 goat. I cant read the numbers yet above the WT, so I dont know if this engine vin matches the car. If it does, then this car was originally a 4speed converted to an automatic.

Even if it is not the original motor, it is still valuable, so I am happy about that. I am mailing in an order form to the PHS to get all the info on my car as well.
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDCreech
The 9790071 is the casting number for a non ram air '68 400 block. The number at the front of the right cylinder bank is just a sequential number
and means nothing useful, however the WT tells a lot about what the engine was. In '68 a WT was a 350HP 400 used in an A body (Tempest & GTO) with a manual transmission. It would have had an 067 cam and used 10.75:1 #16 heads.

And yes, you are exactly right
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2010, 11:39 AM
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If the engine is that tight, it probably has spun at least one bearing. Might mean the crank is toast, and will mean at least one rod is toast. Hopefully there will be nothing majorly wrong so you'll have a back-up engine- or enough parts to make one if you choose to.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2010, 11:49 AM
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I am hoping the same
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327
If the engine is that tight, it probably has spun at least one bearing. Might mean the crank is toast, and will mean at least one rod is toast. Hopefully there will be nothing majorly wrong so you'll have a back-up engine- or enough parts to make one if you choose to.

Got it all apart this week. 2 Spund rod bearings. I was taking caps off and everything looked fine, and that was starting to worry me. Then I took off 2 of the last 3 caps, and it looked like someone had only installed 1 bearing in the rod cap, but after closer inspection I saw that the bearings had rolled underneath each other (this is my first experience with finding spun bearings). After I removed those rods and caps, the crank turned like nothing had ever been wrong, it was very relieving. The block looks to be in great condition, cylinders too, barely a ridge at the top! The crank only had a few scratches in it, no heavy gouges, it will need to be turned if used again I think. The heads are in good shape too!

The engine turned out to be a true gto motor with the original matching #16 heads, but it is not the correct engine for my car, it is a WT for a 68/69 4speed. I think I am going to sell it, but I dont know what to ask for it. I have started another post in the basics forum asking for price recommendations. What do you guys think?

Block w/pan & windage tray
complete #16 heads ready to bolt on
cam and crank
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 12:03 PM
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I would be wondering why he replaced the engine in the 65 if it was such a good motor.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam83
Got it all apart this week. 2 Spund rod bearings.
That's not too bad, then. The block sounds good, that's a relief, over all you got off as good as one could reasonably expect.

I really don't know what to say about the selling price, other than the forum has a classified section (click at the top of the page to get started), I always hear about engines found for $50, every one I seem to buy costs many times that!!

Good luck.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8&4spd
I would be wondering why he replaced the engine in the 65 if it was such a good motor.
Because he has a really nice 455 now
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 12:21 PM
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If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8&4spd
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
nothing was broke, he just wanted more power and found this 455. He has his numbers matching block wrapped up at his house. If he ever wants to sell the car he will put that one together.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by adam83
nothing was broke, he just wanted more power and found this 455. He has his numbers matching block wrapped up at his house. If he ever wants to sell the car he will put that one together.
You are going to want more power too. And the engine you have now is capable.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2010, 02:12 PM
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Yes, you are very right, but I just dont have the money to get this engine rebuilt the way I want to. to stroke it with a forged crank, forged rods & pistons, balanced, gapless second ring etc etc is not feesable with my budget and who knows when it will be. I want to be able to enjoy my car until that day, and I cant do that if it is sitting in pieces for a year. I will build up my parts, take my time, do it right, and all the while still be able to drive
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