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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2006, 11:32 PM
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Oldred , my pipe goes from the compressor (against the ceiling) all the way down to the back of the garge (25 feet) then it turns across the rear about 20 feet , then it comes back about 8 feet , all the while sloping down away from the compressor, but it has a slight low point in the original 25 feet due to the fact I did not move the car that was in the way to clamp it to the ceiling , so it sags about 2 inches or so. Once it reaches its destination it drops straight down and immediately has a tee in line for a hose reel then continues down to another tee for a coupler which has a seperator connected , below that is a section to catch moisture with a ball valve for draining . I will try to snap a few pics tomorrow and post.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2006, 07:38 AM
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Pics will help a bunch, Does the water seem constant or does it seem to come in spells? Is it droplets showing up in paint when it occurs or does it it seem to be in fairly large amounts? If the low spot you mention is such that water would stand without draining then you may have found your problem. What happens is that water will collect in a low spot in the line without much problem until it reaches the point that it starts to restrict the air flow at which time the air will pick it up and cause it to be expelled in fairly large amounts until the line is cleared but then the cycle starts all over again. This may happen only rarely or very often depending on how fast the water is collecting in the line and when it does occur it usually will not all be collected in the separator due to the volume.
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Old 05-31-2006, 01:00 PM
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All I have done so far is use an orbital sander and it seems to be fine for a while but once the compressor has run pretty consistant for about 10-15 minutes it starts to drop water out the exhaust , pretty constant , but just drops , one after another. When I use wide open blow nozzle it seems to be dry then all of a sudden wet then dry and so on . The attached picrues awill show what I have , the first one is the drop in the line that I have not yet attached to the ceiling , which may be the root of my propblem , the second is the connection where it drops down , and the third is my seperator and drian valve.
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Old 05-31-2006, 02:45 PM
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Your separator seems to be set up properly but it is a bit small and you would do well to invest in a better one. If that line across the ceiling in the first pic droops in the middle, and it appears to, then that is probably your biggest problem. What you need to do is drop one end (preferably the end farthest from the compressor) enough so that no water can stand anywhere in the line and it would be a good idea to have the water that does drain from this line go directly into a drop with a drain valve. Look over the entire system and make sure that there is no spot anywhere in the line that water could sit without draining into a collection drop. I am almost certain that if that line in the first pic does droop then you will find standing water in it if you relieve the pressure and take it loose to move it. Probably very little water will be there but that is all it takes.
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Old 06-09-2006, 08:40 PM
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I want to redo my shop piping. I used PVC pipe and it works but it doesn't let me get all the water out. I want to use black pipe but the one thing that stops me with that is I can never get stuff to line up in the right spot and not to leak. Does anyone (preferably a plumber) know the correct way to join piping? I feel like a dummy when I want something in a certain place and then I have to tighten it down so a tee will end up facing a wall instead of away from it
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:18 PM
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This isn't about the plumbing,but the water filter to keep the moisture out. I was looking thru a farm supply catalog and the filter housings that are usually used for water filtration. I read the specs after I realized they had filters for compressed air ranging from 5 microns to 50 microns--the 2-1/2 x 9-3/4 replacement filters were $1.85 & the housings were about $13.00 !! The housings pass 300PSI hydrostatic tests & 400PSI burst tests. What do you guys think ? The charts say max 100 PSI but then if you use a regulator most tools are at 90psi and a spray gun would be less. At that price you could run 2 or 3 and really have dry air.This came from (www.FarmTek.com) in the plumbing section if anyone wants to check this out. If you have any ideas on this please give a little feedback on your thoughts.
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratdoggy
I want to redo my shop piping. I used PVC pipe and it works but it doesn't let me get all the water out. I want to use black pipe but the one thing that stops me with that is I can never get stuff to line up in the right spot and not to leak. Does anyone (preferably a plumber) know the correct way to join piping? I feel like a dummy when I want something in a certain place and then I have to tighten it down so a tee will end up facing a wall instead of away from it
I'm not a plumber,but I've put in gas lines as well as water lines. You have to start at one end and assemble it as you go til you get to the other end.Assemble your lines with teflon tape being sure to wrap the tape in the direction you are turning the fittings(so they don't unwrap)start the tape 2 threads from the end of the pipe to keep from getting tape in your tools.If you are having trouble lining up T's & 90's you are just tightening your joints too far--when they start to get tight just watch where you want it to be and stop before you get too far to be able to line the joint up.If you want to be able to take sections apart without starting at the end in reverse order you will have to use union joints to be able to remove sections without taking the whole thing apart.
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Old 06-10-2006, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratdoggy
I want to redo my shop piping. I used PVC pipe and it works but it doesn't let me get all the water out. I want to use black pipe but the one thing that stops me with that is I can never get stuff to line up in the right spot and not to leak. Does anyone (preferably a plumber) know the correct way to join piping? I feel like a dummy when I want something in a certain place and then I have to tighten it down so a tee will end up facing a wall instead of away from it
IMHO, do not use Teflon tape on iron pipe. The threads on that stuff are not nearly precise enough to seal effectively w/ tape. Save the tape for the sexy brass and SS fittings and use good old plumbers pipe dope on the iron pipe. Guaranteed leak free.
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:22 AM
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Willys-you must be an old fart like me--I use pipe dope if I find it in the shop after the last time I used it (six months ago),but most people don't even know what it is anymore.I use either type of sealer & if you wrap the pipe 3 or 4 wraps I never seem to have a problem.Almost everyone already has the teflon in their shop--just one less thing to buy.Did you happen to look at the link about the filter from the farm supply & do you have any thoughts on their use as a filter for air lines?
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Old 06-10-2006, 12:18 PM
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Kd, A filter is a good idea but not for water removal, at least not for the primary removal method. The filters will become saturated fairly quickly and would need replacement so you really need a good centrifugal water separator that can be drained periodically, this should be located between the tank and the final filter that would use the replaceable elements.
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Old 06-10-2006, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdc49
This isn't about the plumbing,but the water filter to keep the moisture out. I was looking thru a farm supply catalog and the filter housings that are usually used for water filtration. I read the specs after I realized they had filters for compressed air ranging from 5 microns to 50 microns--the 2-1/2 x 9-3/4 replacement filters were $1.85 & the housings were about $13.00 !! The housings pass 300PSI hydrostatic tests & 400PSI burst tests. What do you guys think ? The charts say max 100 PSI but then if you use a regulator most tools are at 90psi and a spray gun would be less. At that price you could run 2 or 3 and really have dry air.This came from (www.FarmTek.com) in the plumbing section if anyone wants to check this out. If you have any ideas on this please give a little feedback on your thoughts.
Won't work, they are for filtering crap out of water, not water out of air. Greenhouses use a lot of misters and drip irrigation, very small nozzles so small particles can clog them and they can't be cleaned just replaced. So the filters are for protecting your investment in nozzles and your greenhouse crop.

Lance
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Old 06-10-2006, 03:30 PM
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I understand your point,but the filters clearly state they are for use with compressed air--gas ---water-- I was thinking of point of use to take out any residual moisture & trash & oil--not as a stand alone filter to remove all the water from a system.By the time you get to the end run you should have already removed most of the water in the system with drops & drains & if you have more than that you need to do something else to dry your air. I was thinking of them for my paint gun drop & the line to my blast cabinet--just to keep things clean. Do you think they are that much less efficient than a regular air line filter ? I've not taken a regular air line filter apart lately,so I really have no idea how much different they are compaired to this filter. I guess I need to go to the shop and take one apart so I can answer my own question.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2006, 03:45 PM
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I put teflon tape on iron pipe, but I don't make it neat, used to be not on purpose, I learned it sealed better by experience, so I always make shure it's folded now.
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Old 06-10-2006, 04:12 PM
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Kd, I misunderstood your intent I thought you meant to use these things instead of regular water traps. If you use them AFTER a properly set up line system with a centrifugal trap they should work just like you are thinking but keep a close watch on them and change the filter before it becomes completely saturated. Can't hurt and looks like cheap insurance to me
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Old 06-14-2006, 10:59 AM
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The right Glue on PVC Pipe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratdoggy
I want to redo my shop piping. I used PVC pipe and it works but it doesn't let me get all the water out. I want to use black pipe but the one thing that stops me with that is I can never get stuff to line up in the right spot and not to leak. Does anyone (preferably a plumber) know the correct way to join piping? I feel like a dummy when I want something in a certain place and then I have to tighten it down so a tee will end up facing a wall instead of away from it
Hello
I put in 1/2 PVC Pipe secude 40 and useded Oatey (All Purpose cement) A plumer told me to use that type of glue on PVC when it comes to a air line and thick wall pipe.I have had it at 90 pounds or better and never had any trouble.It has been in my old shop for 10 years.
You can also add a ziz zaz system and slope it back to the compressor with a drain. then drain it at the end of the day. This is what I will use in my new shop. I will go to a 3/4 secude 40 pvc pipe and add some loops and slops in the line and a ziz zaz system so water will drain out side.I'm also looking for a new 7.5 hp, two stage pump,with high CFM,80 gal tank,230 volt. I'm trying to keep the coast down and get a good Air compressor. what are some good name brands?
Thanks, Kenny G
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