[ant_8u]

Oh. almost forgot

The engine is....

1998cc (122cu)
6 cylinder
12 valve
pushrod
All cast iron

Original output was 104hp I believe!!

Looking to rebuild it as best as possible - thinking 160hp would be very optimistic in this car, 130-140hp being more realistic

Quite a beast!! haahaa

[vinniekq2]

did you know a sbc fits in that car quite nicely?

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by ant_8u

hcompton - the valves are all the same length and diameter

It's just the shape of them that's different


The guy told me the valves I had are terrible and that he would throw them all away and replace them with new/better flowing ones

But now I find I've got my original valves with only two replacement ones which don't match


My original valves are readily available
Should I do a leak test assuggested, and if all is well, replace the mismatched valves with the same ones I had to begin with?

Yes always make sure they dont leak. I just use solvent and hold the valves down with my thumb unless they are already built. Usally they seal up with little to no pressure. If you have a parts washer that is perfect for checking the valves. they may leak some machineist just cut them and figure the spring slamming the valve shut will force it to seal up. I only use this methid if the valves are cut to 46 degrees and seats at 45 they will usally seal up once they have pressure on them.

Your old valves were probably cut to fit into the head deeper. The newer valves sit higher on the seat. Once they are cut a few times they will sink down so this is why they are longer and shorter but all the same tip height.

It aint perfect but i am hoping it was a cheap deal. If you paid for all new valves and got only two i would think the machine shop was confused and only charged for valve job and two valves. Not a full on rebuild with new seats and valves.

The seats are nomraly very close together with 2.02 valves and 64 cc heads. That is the way gm did things back then.

[ant_8u]

Vinnie - Yeah, I've had all of those thoughts going through my mind before
Everything from a SBC to a turbo hayabusa engine

I've decided due to the design of the car it's never going to be great at anything, so it's begin rebuilt to a stock(ish) spec, and then I can get myself another project

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by ant_8u

Oh. almost forgot

The engine is....

1998cc (122cu)
6 cylinder
12 valve
pushrod
All cast iron

Original output was 104hp I believe!!

Looking to rebuild it as best as possible - thinking 160hp would be very optimistic in this car, 130-140hp being more realistic

Quite a beast!! haahaa

Carb or injection. V6 can make good power. Gm 4.3 and the 3.8 will take a lot of boost if you decide to go turbos. But with higher compression and good cam most of the v6 will step out and make some good power. 160 hp is possible with carb setup with efi you will need tuning before you get a cam that is going to make any real power. But a solid 130 qill be very nice in small car or truck or at least a lot better than it was.

For anything more than 150 hp then sbc may work better but emissions with odb2 vehicles is not that easy to fix. Where i live if it shows a v6 under the hood and has a v8 it fails before they plug into the comuter. Same holds true for engines without odb2 computers installed. When they should be they will ot sniff the car if odb2 fails for 97 and later.

You may want to think about porting the stock intake while its apart. Was any port work done on the heads.

[vinniekq2]

I would use a 20b mazda engine ,none bridge port before the Suzuki. I know the motor cycle engine is very popular though. Another good option is a sbf,like the coyote crate engine.
All of the swaps start with more hp than the original 6 could hope to supply.I also thing the 20-b ported sounds nasty,and it has enough rpm to make it sports car like. W/E you decide,its yours and different.Make sure to post some pictures when its close to being finished,and enjoy the project

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by ant_8u

Vinnie - Yeah, I've had all of those thoughts going through my mind before
Everything from a SBC to a turbo hayabusa engine

I've decided due to the design of the car it's never going to be great at anything, so it's begin rebuilt to a stock(ish) spec, and then I can get myself another project

What type of car and engine i looked up 122 cube engine and didnt see one thats must not be popular in the states.

I agree with your stockish rebuild sometimes right is a lot better than fast. A remote mount tubo kit fits just about everything and does not effect emmisions if done right. Also can usally come close to double the hp before things get dangerous. Also very gentle on a weak engine.

[ant_8u]

Originally Posted by hcompton

....It aint perfect but i am hoping it was a cheap deal....

Cost me £1k (british money)

Work requested....

Ported
Skimmed
New valves
New springs
New guides
3 angle seats



Work actually done......

Ported
Skimmed
Two new valves
Seats cut



I'd been told these heads flow around 70cfm at 0.450" and this chappie can get them flowing over 90cfm....I paid my money and took my chances

[ant_8u]

Originally Posted by hcompton

The seats are nomraly very close together with 2.02 valves and 64 cc heads. That is the way gm did things back then.

This has 1.44 inlet and 1.25 exhaust, and 32cc heads

[vinniekq2]

looks like those heads could supply enough air to generate 135 to 140 something if everything else is matching. Is the exhaust side flow 75% of the intake side? or close

[ant_8u]

Originally Posted by hcompton

Carb or injection....

I'm going with Triple Weber 40dcoe's on the rebuilt engine

The car weighs upto 900kg (and the damn engine is 200kg of that!)


These cars aren't known for their handling, so I'm going for overall finish rather than all out performance

Once this one's finished and I win some trophies I'll buy something more suitable for performance.....No idea what though

[belchfire]

For a weekend toy you won't notice any difference from valve weights. If you're running 10 grand then the added weight affects inertia and then you've got to adjust the springs & they're out of balance etc. etc. The seat overlap is no big deal as long as the actual contact areas don't touch.
I fit the valves, turn the head on its side and fill the ports 1/2 way with alcohol then blow around the valve with an air gun. Sometimes all they need is a quick lap to bring them in. Sometimes it's a crappy job. Hopefully your retired machinist has had enough experience to do the job right.

[vinniekq2]

Over here in Canada,we installed a 350 in a TR-6 with a few aluminum bolt ons and cast iron heads,the car ended up 30 pounds lighter,,,

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by ant_8u

Cost me £1k (british money)

Work requested....

Ported
Skimmed
New valves
New springs
New guides
3 angle seats



Work actually done......

Ported
Skimmed
Two new valves
Seats cut



I'd been told these heads flow around 70cfm at 0.450" and this chappie can get them flowing over 90cfm....I paid my money and took my chances

Ok sorry thoguht you had earlier motor. 1000 pounds sounds like alot for the work you got but right for the job you requested. Doesnt sound right i think they billed for one thing and only did the work for normal repair. Might want to ask them what happends since they did not complete the work but charged full price. I would just get the difference back in cash and run what you got with turbo or just stock.

I think i would skip getting work done at this shop again if they cant work outnthis issue quickly. Sounds like they did the cheap back on the road again rebuild and not any performance work. Also all shops should charge for hot tank/acid dip so the parts can be properly inspected visually. If not thay are doing hack work. Seems like 500 uk should of got that job done and then some. But i am not sure about uk prices. In my local area machine work is expensive and they only want to do stock rebuilds. Still 500 us would get that work done locally in some areas of the us it could be done a lot cheaper.

[ant_8u]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

looks like those heads could supply enough air to generate 135 to 140 something if everything else is matching. Is the exhaust side flow 75% of the intake side? or close

I've heard people saying they've got 180-200hp out of these engines.....doubtful if you ask me

The engines are the same as the TR6 one....the TR6 has a longer stroke to make it a 2500cc rather than the GT6's 1998cc
The injected TR6's had 150hp

I'll build this one as well as I can, and we'll see what it puts out

I'm trying to find exhaust Vs inlet flow......I want to say it's ~72 to ~75% though