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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belchfire View Post
For a weekend toy you won't notice any difference from valve weights. If you're running 10 grand then the added weight affects inertia....... Hopefully your retired machinist has had enough experience to do the job right.....
It'll run to around 8K absolute maximum
Most likely 7K though

I'm guessing he's more than experienced enough, my uneducated mind saw the overlapping seats in the head and got scared

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:03 PM
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I could see 150 HP if you use parts that are race oriented and the volumetric efficiency is over 90%.
You might need a split duration cam if the exhaust side ports are weak? Im curious now,,,
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
I could see 150 HP if you use parts that are race oriented and the volumetric efficiency is over 90%.
You might need a split duration cam if the exhaust side ports are weak? Im curious now,,,
Me too......

Should sound like this when it's eventually finished


Shame I can't get this project finished faster
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:47 PM
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The video you posted sounds good.Thats a fair sized cam judging by the sound at idle.The scca cars are race cars,are you racing your car?


this is the engine sound you could have with a mazda
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:56 PM
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I'm not planning on racing my car

I've just spent on the bodywork

At this rate it's going to be a garage queen


That Madza sounds v nice
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 01:10 PM
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The mazda is smaller lighter and over 300 hp.I watched the next video on your set there and saw the guy trash that engine,,,The carb noise is quite loud,are you wanting that?If you use a big cam it will be noisey,sounds like they are large gap cams,lash close to 30?
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:22 PM
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Valve lash is/should be 0.010"

Possible worn rockers causing the noise in the video?
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:37 PM
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.. Instead of building to please others/win trophies, how about just building something YOU would enjoy DRIVING?

.. The 'overlap' of the valve areas is normal for those valve sizes, my new MoTown heads have the same thing... but, I would go in with a powered grinding ball and carefully round over any razor sharp edges to prevent them from glowing red hot when the engine is running and causing engine damaging pre-ignition... being careful to never touch the valve seat in the slightest with the grinder... put old valves in the chamber being worked on to prevent contact with valve sealing area... also remove sharp edges if any on valve heads and backcut the older valves underneath if needed for more lowlift flow...
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:43 PM
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Should I do anything about the carbon in the chambers?
If I remove it will it just return seconds after firing the engine up?


What level of finish do the chambers and ports benefit from?

I've heard mirror polishing is a waste of time, but what level is seen as 'right' ?
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:12 PM
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I stuck a stock truck 350 in a tr7. I wasnt impressed cause the rear axle didnt like the increased torque! It broke a week or 2 later! good luck with your project!
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant_8u View Post
Should I do anything about the carbon in the chambers?
If I remove it will it just return seconds after firing the engine up?


What level of finish do the chambers and ports benefit from?

I've heard mirror polishing is a waste of time, but what level is seen as 'right' ?
Remove any sharp edges or casting irregularities that could glow and cause preignition. The area below the seats can be smoothed/blended to help flow. Don't alter the short turn radius.

If you clean all the oily carbon off you can smooth the chambers (if you leave it it'll clog the sanding rolls almost immediately, making them useless), but I wouldn't do much more than what is mentioned in the first paragraph. But it won't hurt anything to smooth the chambers as long as you stay away from the seats and you don't change the basic shapes of anything. I don't know if you have too much compression but if you do, you can work the chambers to lower it some w/o causing any problems as long as you're careful.

The chambers look to be at least partially machined, the scalloped recesses are by the looks of it, and possibly the whole chambers are machined. If that's the case, nothing but touch up needs doing IMHO.

If there are areas left unmachined, use the machined areas as your guide for the finish you want to achieve.

Someone mentioned back cutting the valves. Often this is a cheap and easy way to help flow. GM did this w/the Vortec head- and they do nothing on a whim.

Port matching the manifolds can add a bit of flow, just don't use a gasket and hog out both openings to match the gasket (aka "gasket matching")- that'll create a bulge that will slow the flow when it reaches the bulge, and that'll make for a lot of flow-killing turbulence. You can do some research on port vs. gasket matching (one post: how difficult to port intake manifold?). There's also a little info and some links here.

OT, those chambers have a slight resemblance to the machined chambers of a Pontiac.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 02:58 AM
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I saw some gobs of metal in a combustion chamber, you may have some in the ports, also. I would remove those, otherwise leave as is. There was some machining on the edge of the combustion chambers, but that was just the valve seat cutting machine taking out a little of the casting that was hanging over in the way of airflow coming out of the valve... as to gasket matching, if the gasket doesn't have oversize port holes, but holes that are obviously the size and shape all the ports should have been except for casting slippage/error, then you can match to the gasket port size/shape... going on into the port maintaining the same size/shape if it's smaller on in there in spots... I've seen some Chevy ports that are supposed to be square or rectangular, but actually more like triangles in the worst cases...
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 03:57 PM
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Ignore if this is old news to you.

This guy you've prob. heard of: Kas Kastner -- Vintage Triumph Racing and More. His books seem to come pretty highly recommended.

Some head ID info: Triumph TR2-3B FAQ _ Triumph heads

CR by head thickness: Richard Good

FWIW there's a lot more machining done to the combustion chamber than it might look like w/them being dirty.

Not same head (1970 TR6), but gives an idea:

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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 04:24 PM
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I'm just a bit confused as usual. You mentioned in an earlier post that he said your stock valves weren't good ones, and he reccommended replacing them. Then a recent post you listed what was supposed to be done, and replacing the valves was on the list?
So if he was supposed to replace them, and it was on the list to replace, then why did he reccommend replacing them, and not replace them?
Only thing I see concerning in the work that's been done is I always have mine hot tanked and magnafluxed. Doesn't appear either was done, so hopefully there's no cracks that would mean all this is done for nothing.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:10 PM
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Cobalt - The TR6 IS the same head as mine......just a different thickness for the CR that's all

That chamber is the same as mine......obviously with different work though


EDIT - I just checked that TR6 link......those pictures show what my engine looks like (mine had a shorter stroke though being a 2litre)

Last edited by ant_8u; 12-18-2012 at 05:19 PM.
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