Just Got My Head Back - Should I Be P****d?? - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 01:10 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 59
Posts: 11,638
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 693
Thanked 1,340 Times in 1,243 Posts
The mazda is smaller lighter and over 300 hp.I watched the next video on your set there and saw the guy trash that engine,,,The carb noise is quite loud,are you wanting that?If you use a big cam it will be noisey,sounds like they are large gap cams,lash close to 30?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 01:22 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: England
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Valve lash is/should be 0.010"

Possible worn rockers causing the noise in the video?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:37 PM
Cars, Trucks, Boats
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Toledo, N.W.Ohio, USA
Age: 69
Posts: 5,253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 622 Times in 585 Posts
.. Instead of building to please others/win trophies, how about just building something YOU would enjoy DRIVING?

.. The 'overlap' of the valve areas is normal for those valve sizes, my new MoTown heads have the same thing... but, I would go in with a powered grinding ball and carefully round over any razor sharp edges to prevent them from glowing red hot when the engine is running and causing engine damaging pre-ignition... being careful to never touch the valve seat in the slightest with the grinder... put old valves in the chamber being worked on to prevent contact with valve sealing area... also remove sharp edges if any on valve heads and backcut the older valves underneath if needed for more lowlift flow...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 04:43 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: England
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Should I do anything about the carbon in the chambers?
If I remove it will it just return seconds after firing the engine up?


What level of finish do the chambers and ports benefit from?

I've heard mirror polishing is a waste of time, but what level is seen as 'right' ?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 07:12 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 61
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I stuck a stock truck 350 in a tr7. I wasnt impressed cause the rear axle didnt like the increased torque! It broke a week or 2 later! good luck with your project!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:36 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 5,031
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 616 Times in 565 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ant_8u View Post
Should I do anything about the carbon in the chambers?
If I remove it will it just return seconds after firing the engine up?


What level of finish do the chambers and ports benefit from?

I've heard mirror polishing is a waste of time, but what level is seen as 'right' ?
Remove any sharp edges or casting irregularities that could glow and cause preignition. The area below the seats can be smoothed/blended to help flow. Don't alter the short turn radius.

If you clean all the oily carbon off you can smooth the chambers (if you leave it it'll clog the sanding rolls almost immediately, making them useless), but I wouldn't do much more than what is mentioned in the first paragraph. But it won't hurt anything to smooth the chambers as long as you stay away from the seats and you don't change the basic shapes of anything. I don't know if you have too much compression but if you do, you can work the chambers to lower it some w/o causing any problems as long as you're careful.

The chambers look to be at least partially machined, the scalloped recesses are by the looks of it, and possibly the whole chambers are machined. If that's the case, nothing but touch up needs doing IMHO.

If there are areas left unmachined, use the machined areas as your guide for the finish you want to achieve.

Someone mentioned back cutting the valves. Often this is a cheap and easy way to help flow. GM did this w/the Vortec head- and they do nothing on a whim.

Port matching the manifolds can add a bit of flow, just don't use a gasket and hog out both openings to match the gasket (aka "gasket matching")- that'll create a bulge that will slow the flow when it reaches the bulge, and that'll make for a lot of flow-killing turbulence. You can do some research on port vs. gasket matching (one post: how difficult to port intake manifold?). There's also a little info and some links here.

OT, those chambers have a slight resemblance to the machined chambers of a Pontiac.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 02:58 AM
Cars, Trucks, Boats
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Toledo, N.W.Ohio, USA
Age: 69
Posts: 5,253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 622 Times in 585 Posts
I saw some gobs of metal in a combustion chamber, you may have some in the ports, also. I would remove those, otherwise leave as is. There was some machining on the edge of the combustion chambers, but that was just the valve seat cutting machine taking out a little of the casting that was hanging over in the way of airflow coming out of the valve... as to gasket matching, if the gasket doesn't have oversize port holes, but holes that are obviously the size and shape all the ports should have been except for casting slippage/error, then you can match to the gasket port size/shape... going on into the port maintaining the same size/shape if it's smaller on in there in spots... I've seen some Chevy ports that are supposed to be square or rectangular, but actually more like triangles in the worst cases...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 03:57 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 5,031
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 616 Times in 565 Posts
Ignore if this is old news to you.

This guy you've prob. heard of: Kas Kastner -- Vintage Triumph Racing and More. His books seem to come pretty highly recommended.

Some head ID info: Triumph TR2-3B FAQ _ Triumph heads

CR by head thickness: Richard Good

FWIW there's a lot more machining done to the combustion chamber than it might look like w/them being dirty.

Not same head (1970 TR6), but gives an idea:

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 04:24 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 2,890
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 72
Thanked 671 Times in 565 Posts
I'm just a bit confused as usual. You mentioned in an earlier post that he said your stock valves weren't good ones, and he reccommended replacing them. Then a recent post you listed what was supposed to be done, and replacing the valves was on the list?
So if he was supposed to replace them, and it was on the list to replace, then why did he reccommend replacing them, and not replace them?
Only thing I see concerning in the work that's been done is I always have mine hot tanked and magnafluxed. Doesn't appear either was done, so hopefully there's no cracks that would mean all this is done for nothing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:10 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: England
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cobalt - The TR6 IS the same head as mine......just a different thickness for the CR that's all

That chamber is the same as mine......obviously with different work though


EDIT - I just checked that TR6 link......those pictures show what my engine looks like (mine had a shorter stroke though being a 2litre)

Last edited by ant_8u; 12-18-2012 at 05:19 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:13 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: England
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I'm just a bit confused as usual. You mentioned in an earlier post that he said your stock valves weren't good ones, and he reccommended replacing them. Then a recent post you listed what was supposed to be done, and replacing the valves was on the list?
So if he was supposed to replace them, and it was on the list to replace, then why did he reccommend replacing them, and not replace them?
Only thing I see concerning in the work that's been done is I always have mine hot tanked and magnafluxed. Doesn't appear either was done, so hopefully there's no cracks that would mean all this is done for nothing.

Re the valves.....that's pretty much what got me starting this thread
If he hasn't done that I wanted to see if everything that has been done is ok

The head hasn't been tanked or magnafluxed

I've stripped it bare tonight, just cleaning it up a little so I can post some better pictures for further comments and opinions

Last edited by ant_8u; 12-18-2012 at 05:22 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:24 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: England
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Stripped, and starting to get a little cleaner now

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:28 PM
123pugsy's Avatar
"Thread Cop"
 
Last wiki edit: Metal shaping
Last journal entry: SEAM SEALER
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Markham,ON
Age: 55
Posts: 2,898
Wiki Edits: 29

Thanks: 2,724
Thanked 977 Times in 682 Posts
I just don't see how someone can give you back a product that looks like that.

Why were the guides not done if they were also on the list?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:30 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: England
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
He said the guides were fine and so he didn't want to disturb them
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #45 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:40 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: England
Posts: 285
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Various inlet pictures
(apparently these heads suffer badly from core shift, hence the small lip in some of the throats)

















Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Old gear head back at it. pecosbill Introduce Yourself 4 08-08-2011 05:05 PM
Back up or no back up lights weekend warrior Hotrodding Basics 3 08-08-2011 01:01 AM
Back from the dead, or just back Halloweenking Hotrodders' Lounge 22 04-15-2009 03:12 AM
head bolts or head studs? head gaskets? thefloyd1973 Engine 9 07-04-2008 09:25 AM
back agine still spites back throw the barb at low rpm 302truck Engine 9 01-17-2004 10:43 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.