[killeratrod]

Now that you have it bare take it to a good shop have it cleaned & magnafluxed. I would not go any further till you know the head is not cracked. These are the first steps you should take & the first $100 spent.

[ant_8u]

Thanks

The reason I used this guy was that he came very highly recommended

I told him what the car will be used for, but basically told him to build/prepare it to the very best of his ability

We agreed what would be done, but it seems that he hasn't done a lot of the requested work, stating that it was fine as it was

The head did come back assembled, but not cleaned
That along with the different valves is what got me to start this thread

I have no doubt his knowledge and ability is far greater than mine will ever be, but I think I have a different mindset to him

For example - The way I look at it, mismatched valves can't be right
And if its not right it has to be wrong, and I don't want things to be wrong

I know it's hardly critical, like we've mentioned, it's a weekend toy
But it'll bug me forever knowing the valves 'aren't right'

He also designs cams and headers for these engines, so my intention was to get everything from him so I know it's all correctly matched for the job


(Regarding valve heights.......since I have pushrods and adjustable rockers, do I still need to concern myself with valve heights?)

Thanks again

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by ant_8u

(Regarding valve heights.......since I have pushrods and adjustable rockers, do I still need to concern myself with valve heights?)

Thanks again

The valve height- or more like the depth of the seat- has a direct bearing on the valve spring installed height. Sunk seat = more installed height and vice versa.

So you need to measure the installed height of each valve and shim the springs to give the correct installed height. While there are dial spring height tools, I use a snap gauge and caliper to measure this. The problem w/some dial tools is the top of the tool doesn't always match up to the retainer spring seat, so it has to be shimmed or otherwise somehow account for the mismatch.

No machinist worth his salt will have set you up w/a situation where the seats are too tall, that's to say to give a too-small installed height. But because the new exhaust seats look to be a bit recessed (not that much of an issue especially on the exhaust side), and that the intake seats were refinished (which sinks them slightly) this should not be an issue.

While I certainly understand your desire for perfection, in the greater scheme of things the difference in output between the two different intake valves would not amount to a measurable difference, all else being equal. Not saying don't change them- just saying.

[ant_8u]

Cool

I'm starting to feel quite relaxed again, so thanks to everybody for that

I'll ask him about the valves next time I speak to him

So, we'll run it as is and see what the outcomes is


I've managed to find a graph of another Triumph owners engine which has been worked on by the chap that's done my head

The fine lines show his engine with someone else's head
The bold line shows the engine with the same head as mine (allegedly)
Everything else remained unchanged

Seems a big difference for just a head swap?

[ant_8u]

Torque and power seem to drop off a cliff

[vinniekq2]

post 25? lol.

remember the year of the technology.
still the car should be fun to drive

[ant_8u]

Haahaa, not bad Vinnie

[BuzzLOL]

.. LOL! Nobody would ever accuse that engine of having a flat torque curve!

.. I am amazed that the earlier head catches up with the later head at 6200 RPMs... I would have expected the earlier head to just keep losing ground... wonder what's going on there? The less efficient earlier head must cause the engine to keep revving trying to reach its peak power for the cam used...

[ant_8u]

I've got no idea what's going on with that one

The engine spec is the same for both graphs......with the only exception being the work done to the cylinder head