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Its easy to get hydraulic lifters adjusted incorrectly, but I also think that many hydraulic lifters are crap. I had a set in a 454 that I tried to get quiet four times, then I had my friend at the shop try it and the same three lifters were just letting it tick.
Try a running adjustment. When you tighten them down to zero, then go another 1/4 turn you'll notice wild vacuum fluctuations and rough running. That should go away in 15-20 seconds as they bleed down. On mine, they bled down almost right away, indicating that they were just bleeding down too fast. Cheap lifters. And if you're looking to get rid of ticking by going to solids, you're barking up the wrong tree Right now you probably have a few valves ticking. With solids, they will ALL tick constantly; more when its cold.
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Running adjustment
I will do that - actually have made myself a cutout valve cover that is near 0 mess
I actually did lash +1/2 turn (the guy that did them the first time, and old timer GM guy, did a FULL TURN)!!!! How did you ID the tickers, or did you go through them all??? |
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There are a couple ways to ID a ticker. You can use a piece of fuel line up to your ear. As you pass the hose over the rockers the ticking sound will go right up the tube. You can sometimes get the ticking to change by pressing your thumb on the rockers one by one. If the ticking changes or stops, that's your ticker.
As far as how many turns to go after zero lash, that's a subject of debate. For the most part, a hydraulic lifter has a certain amount of plunger travel. As long as you're not bottoming out the lifter and leaving a fair amount of travel, its OK. The 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, full turn debate is sometimes moot. As long as you have enough preload to prevent lash, its enough. The bottom line is that the plunger should work properly as long as you are into the hydraulic part and not at the bottom or the top. If its properly adjusted, then the ticking is most likely from a lifter that is bleeding down too fast. If that's the case, it will tick the same at 1/4, 1/2, or full turn because the oil pressure isn't staying in the lifter body. Many times manufacturers might recommend 1/2 turn on vehicles that come equipped with coarse threads on the stud and 3/4 or full turn on vehicles that came with fine thread. The difference isn't in the lifter, but with the amount of linear preload you're adding to the lifter with each turn of the nut. Think of it this way. the plunger is prevented from moving up by the snap ring at the top. Its travel is limited in the downward direction by the plunger physically hitting the bottom. Anywhere in the middle and its suspended by oil pressure (and a spring). As long as you're in the middle, it should work as designed. Last edited by curtis73; 10-11-2008 at 11:01 AM. |
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id tickers? use a dowel, long screwdriver, stethoscope or vinyl/rubber tube, place one end on the rocker and put the other up to your ear and just listen you will here the bad actor, hyd lifters....crap ..... HYPE!
did I mention you should check each individual rocker??? Adjustments form 0 lash can be either 1/2 too 3/4 turn, just make sure all are equal. |
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Months back there were several posts & a few videos of people having problems with ticking Comp hydraulic roller lifters, the 885's. Haven't herd of any other posted problems with the flat tappet hyds. being noisy.
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Bogie |
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Lifter Adjustment ??
So do you guys think that it would be wasted time to try to adjust it to get ticking to stop? I got plenty of other things to do, if not worth the time!!!
I guess I could try to video and get some audio of it as well, maybe that would help you experts of what to try??? |
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Actually what is damaging to things are lifters that tick when they shouldn't like an OEM that rattles on start up or when the oil is hot and you roll to a stop light. That's a sound of something amiss. The 885 is an anti-pump up lifter design, they will be noisy pretty much no matter what you do with in reason. Trust me, I used to run Rhoads variable duration lifters in my BBC pick-up, I know a lot about ticking. Bogie |
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I`m not sure if this will help any but it maybe worth a shot. Wait until your engine gets close to it`s next oil change. pour in a whole can of seafoam. and drive it for about 30 minutes to a hour, then change the oil. There`s the possibility some of the lifters may have trash in them causing the tick. This trick has worked for me many times in the past dealing with ticking chevrolet roller lifters and these tend to be prone to ticking.
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After trying a few times to adjust them, and if you're sure you adjusted them right, then I'd give up. Put it this way. If you have a new valvetrain that is ticking, its either not adjusted properly or you have bum lifters. If you have an old valvetrain that was quiet and is now ticking, you have collapsing lifters or a wiped cam lobe. The ONLY situation in which further adjusting will help is the first scenario; new valvetrain that is improperly adjusted. If its a bum/collapsing lifter OR a wiped cam lobe, adjusting them tighter will just make things worse. |
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New valve train
This car has relatively new valve train - a few hundred miles on it. (New complete AFR heads, comp cam & all the lifters, timing chain). Will give it one try and see if I can quiet them down with adjustment.
The ticking is definetely more pronounced at idle ..... and less as rpm's go up. I am going to do a RUNNING ADJUSTMENT, with two cut-out valve covers, and HOPING, I will be able to find the culprit with an auto-stethoscope or pressing down on the top of rockers one at a time
Last edited by Tomard; 10-13-2008 at 05:54 AM. |
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